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BryceVR

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Everything posted by BryceVR

  1. BryceVR

    Megasquirt into XF EFI

    Have you done any more on this. I'm about to pull the pin on a V2 or V3 for my Corty and I'm eager for any information. My plan is the MSv3 and an EDIS ignition system. This should allow for a bigger cam and higher comp. Do you have a basic how-to or can you point me toward any useful resources.
  2. BryceVR

    Broken Bolt Extraction

    You just listed my top 4 but I like... Is very good Used them more than once if you can get a grip and swing, work it back and forth don'y try and turn it out in one go, keep it lubed and use some heeat if you have it. Drill and tap is the best but .. Asians make components from high grade cheese so if it's a cheap and nasty then drill and tap, the bolt will dissolve under force. But my favourite is the OXY and a hammer after drilling for an eazy-out then let it cool, some WD and heat it again (it will catch fire but only for a moment) she'll move then. (try and get the blade boss from a 40year old rover mower and you'll learn a shit load about being stuck)
  3. BryceVR

    Just another mad idea!

    Before you say it... I can't use the original computer because weight, loads cam etc. etc. etc. Even with engine stock, the engine would be unmanageable due to loads, gearing etc. Dropping an effective aftermarket ECU is fairly simple but painstaking.
  4. BryceVR

    Just another mad idea!

    So, I have this tidy Cortina, its got a 500 Holley, and a good cam (too much really) and goes like a screamer but spits unburnt juice at idle (that's normal) and needs 3K to get going with a schwezenger type clutch. I also have a reasonably low mileage EFI engine in perfect condition. Driving the HiPo engine is fun but a bit of an effort, Clutch is hard, it's tweaky in traffic etc and I only really give it a go every 3 months or so. I've spent more on the chassis than I'd really like to think about and thought I'd drop the HiPo engine out and leave it with the EFI engine for day to day, given that the new club plate rules give me more opportunities to use the car. My thinking is to put in a tap for the tank to switch between the Hi pressure EFI and the Lo Pressure carby pump and simply lift the engine/gearbox out and swap. The carby engine is good for lots of HP, but a good well setup EFI will still give me 250+ hp with an auto for around town. I'd like to hear what you all think, an engine swap is about a 2hr job so I'll keep the HiPo for competition but using the car gives me a chance to sort the chassis a bit better. I'd set up the EFI with a wolf/Haltech/Motech/ whatever brand I can score at a good price and leave the crusty trusty BW35 there.
  5. BryceVR

    Just another mad idea!

    Great idea but... Can't run injection in comp. must run original induction and spark. So I can run a electronic dizzy but not a Megajolt etc You get the idea. I may turbo the EFI down the track (I LOVE turbos) but first I have to get it in the car and running. A pre-loved haltech and a few hours with a soldering iron and I reckon I'll make it go but still need to swap back easily. I see the biggest issue is the fuel pump so I'll mount them an hardpoint bracket and swap at the same time seems to me to be the easiest option. As you all know to crack 200KW is about $10k but, you can get 170-180kw for less than half that. with a 950Kg car, it's enough to stomp on most "special vehicles". So if I get about that using a stocker, a cam and a good EFI setup I'm a happy camper. So we have this to go into this roughly. I have no recent pictures of the Corty as she was put away about 4 years ago with some panels in primer and a few bits incomplete. I'm here now because I'm about to restart the 12 year project.
  6. BryceVR

    no spark when hot

    Yeah I reckon it's the best engine of the last 30 years, though I'd love to get my paws on a "coyote" crate motor and see what I could do. SO, you finally got it sorted. Good value. Lots of luck on the 11's, tough nut to crack, that elusive sub 12. I still lean toward a MegaJolt and coil packs of coil on plug.
  7. BryceVR

    Just another mad idea!

    The car goes like a bat out of hell but not really fun in traffic etc. That's why the EFI option for just running around. When I want to go to the track I'd just swap back to the manual, carby engine and run a shakedown. I'd just like to drive it a bit more and it's a bit precocious for just going for a quick spin. PM me about the clutch, I'm always on the lookout for improved kit.
  8. BryceVR

    Just another mad idea!

    No heater box, no heater, no battery, no fuel pump, just a Davis Craig elec water pump. It will fit with enough room to throw a party under the bonnet. Setting up both fuel deliveries is really all that concerns me I think? I have 3 diffs, one EA LSD for track/street, a hillclimb diff (a 3.45 from memory) and a locker. A Corty runs smaller wheels so all diffs effectively are 1 or 2 steps shorter than a Falcon diff. Changing the diff is a 15 minute job so I'd just do that when I swapped donks. I was thinking of the 2.92 for the EFI. Not an overworked engine just a cam, roller rockers and some headwork with a 2 1/2" etc. EFI let's you tune most gremlins out with the software so, I was thinking it would just let me get a bit more use out of the car instead of the 5-6 times a year it gets run now.
  9. BryceVR

    Just another mad idea!

    I've got an A frame and a block and tackle so an engine swap is not a real hassle, saving for a hoist now, got the money for the hoist but working on the concrete slab to put it on, you need 16 ft of head room on top of the slab.
  10. BryceVR

    no spark when hot

    That of course is Beethovens 9th...
  11. BryceVR

    no spark when hot

    Yep, there's a song that plays at about 10k that's like a Mozart chorus... An Ode to Joy almost..
  12. BryceVR

    no spark when hot

    If I was going for a top end motor for my use (track and hillclimb). I'd be finding a an LS400 lexus V8 engine. I've seen the comp ski boat guys running them and they're just incredible. I'm trying to keep in class, so, no injection, original options, period upgrades etc, etc, etc...
  13. BryceVR

    no spark when hot

    I reckon a Barra with locked cam gear and enough cam will spin to 9k but if I was spending that dough, I'd by a coyote 5L crate motor and work with that.
  14. BryceVR

    no spark when hot

    there is a special thrill when an engine hits 10k isn't there? All the bits just sing to you. I've played with the odd 'Busa and they're a unique thrill. A 'busa with 38mm DeLorrto bodies, 270hp from 1.3 litres.
  15. BryceVR

    no spark when hot

    Crank triggered, HiPo coils (preferably coil per) and a good programmable. Whatever brand, is the go. Hope you get your head around the MSD, I go for stuff that's more open source. Even running a 10sec car, spark is not your problem and I'll run 13's with a standard coil and dist and don't think that that's where I my issue is, More air and a better driver seem to be my issues. They rape you for the MSD extras that can be farmed from production cars at 1/10th the price and a soldering iron. There's shit I can do with a megaJolt via USB that confuses me and I'm considered a smart arse with this stuff. Just running the parallel curves are there, trigger #1, trigger#2, trigger#3 etc so if you get a Hi/Lo from the box then it will shift the curves. Their real beauty is clean laptop interface, LINUX for the win. Without the brand name overhead.
  16. BryceVR

    no spark when hot

    Base time is +32 and it will reference back from there? Sorry about my blunt responses early but I've seen so many "Why wont my car start" threads to be a bit cynical. I'll still stand by my earlier advice but, in your case.. I'd go with a CDI or surf the MSD but as I said I've had nothing but issues with them.
  17. BryceVR

    no spark when hot

    I suppose it's worth a few tenths in quarter squirt. Assuming Launch, run, final. and all at close to full tilt boogie, then wouldn't the mappings be close? Apart from launch I mean? I'd think injection timing was more important.
  18. BryceVR

    no spark when hot

    So it changes advance against load not revs? To a degree it does this presumptuously. and then effectively works as a load/rev balance. Clever but complicated.
  19. BryceVR

    no spark when hot

    So in the end we can tell every who uses an MSD to set base time retarded to 35* and let the unit adjust forward as required. Is this correct? Then the unit will adjust forward as required, but if the base is negative it will ignore the base time and then assume -35* . If this is correct then let the users know so that they have a solution.
  20. BryceVR

    no spark when hot

    So how does it trigger from gearbox? or does it assume sequential shidfts need different curves?
  21. BryceVR

    no spark when hot

    Yup it sits you on your arse in a hurry
  22. BryceVR

    no spark when hot

    Why didn't the MSD give youa base curve?
  23. BryceVR

    no spark when hot

    I only run Bathurst, Wakefield and Eastern creek and then mainly with a formula Vee. The Corty keeps getting delayed. Look at a Coil-on-plug or coil pak solution though. Cheers
  24. BryceVR

    no spark when hot

    Getting the curve on an MSD was a nightmare Good to see you got it sorted though. I always go to absolute basics and then work the problem, was yours a coil in the end?
  25. BryceVR

    no spark when hot

    I dream of 11's too But under 2:20 on panorama is my goal. For that I need brakes, chasis and throttle control, we'll go there in another chapter. I've got MSD's, megaJolts, and about everything that's ever been sold. A good Electronic will do 99.9 % of mods. Then coil pack MegaJolt with a chopper wheel. Biggest waste of money I ever spent was the MSD, (apart from triple webers) it wasn't bad but just several hundred dollars that I could have soldered up myself and then it was a hundred miles behind a megaJolt in configuration options.
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