SLO247

James with your wiring have you soldered the joins?

Sounds like it should be ok.

Those terminals are small and weather proof, they are going under the dash so any should be fine. Narva does up to 8 way ones, even then I'll probably need at least half a dozen for the dash loom.I don't have any experience crimping non insulated terminals. I'll do some more research.

Chris I'm talking about the pins within the plugs, not the plugs themselves.

Something like these?

http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/quick-connect

So I want to run an XD dash in my XF ute.

I decided to stay with the XF engine bay loom for a few reasons, now I need to mate the XD dash wiring loom to the XF engine bay loom.

Obviously the connectors are compeltely different, I haven't double checked but I'm sure the XD plugs have big bullet type pins and the XF plugs have the modern flat ones.

I was going to just cut and solder the XF plugs onto the XD loom but I remember hearing that solder joints can crack and fail over time, It definitely happens with solder joints in electronics so I believe it.

What are the best connectors to use? I know Narva etc sell new connectors with pins I can crimp on and set the connectors up, I've never used these before. If anyone here has do you have any info or tips to share?

I'll add this will be inside the cab so no need for the expensive waterproof ones.

My screen is perfect but its the series 2/3 type. So blank background with black characters. Series 1 had black background with orange characters. Fits and works fine though. Could always change the cluster to match too haha.

I'm just talking about the base model Falcon, which has the same brakes. Not sure if IRS models had slight differences on the rear, but wheel fitment is the same.

Need anything for it? I'm about to strip a series 3 Fairmont Ghia V8.

Brakes are the same yeah. If its a series 1 15" wheels will fit. Series 2 onwards had bigger brakes and 16" wheels standard. Not sure if 15s fit those.

Good luck.

Found this with a quick google. Surely theres more to it than that. If thats all you need thats the way to go, everybody wants big money for non power boxes.

http://www.rarespares.net.au/rarespares/ProductPage.aspx?product=SBXRF

If theres no suitable tooth available you could use a speedo corrector?

Under the face.

I had an XE GL with Sierra Tan interior in the wool cloth. Not real common but they did build them. I've seen a few utes with Sierra Tan vinyl benches for sale over the years.

The nut is reverse thread. Clamp the pump in a vice and give the nut a sharp tap on the edge of one of the sides. Use a big flathead and a hammer. Usually works.

What's the brake upgrade on an XG? I've never heard of that being an option until AU.

Are XG different or was that just XG XR? I have two late XF ones and a standard XG one here. I haven't looked real close but they look identical.

Just fitted an EFI rocker cover to my crossflow.

It would be much neater if I could put a t piece in the vac line running across the rocker cover to the booster, and plumb it to the PCV valve at the rear of the rocker cover.

Can I do this or nah?

Also I was just going to fit a breather filter to the breather at the front of the rocker cover. To get it into the air filter will need two elbows and will look like arse.

Is this also a shit idea? I'm keen on the clean engine bay and less shit going back through the carby.

Motor has been rebuilt and will hopefully have very minimal blowby. Not sure if the breather filters just clog with oil or not.

Can it run without the AFM?

I wouldn't go under about 320 grit on them. Hasn't the 80 grit left it heavily scratched?

They look awesome polished.

Worst I can see happening is a warning light in the dash cluster. If so just take the globe out.

That's right. Easily doable.

XF? The handbrakes always seize, shit calipers. Half the ones I buy for parts I have to knock the levers on the caliper back around before they move. The pistons seize in the bores too. Just like EA-ED. I still have a box of spares after having to buy one from a wrecker on a public holiday for stupid money.

Anyway I'd rebuild the calipers.

I don't have Anything constructive to add but that's a very oil free looking crossie. Can't have any in it.

All I can do is thin stuff, all I've ever done. Not bad at it though now.

Exhaust pipe I can do but it looks shit. I have no idea where to start with the settings haha. Which sucks as I have to weld the ute exhaust back together.

Put me on thick plate and I'd be even more lost.

I got the unimig 180 from Adelaide tools. No idea if it does stainless or alloy, should be in the specs.

I've used it a fair bit on panel repairs and it works nicely even for me as an amateur. Pretty cheap for what it is I think. Using it with argoshield light and Cigweld wire. The wire it came with worked well, even gasless it works well. After my contact with BOC expires I'll just continue gasless, only using it for all the panel work on the ute but to be honest I think i could get along fine without.

I noticed on a mighty car mods video they are using the same one in their workshop.

Love a happy ending.

Doesn't sound like it but make sure its not the oil pressure switch. They go suddenly.

If you can deal with the mess I'd say it'll be fine to drive.

My old XH pressure switch died about 25kms from a mates place. We had a loaded car trailer on the back. We still drove it back, then returned the trailer and I drove it home before fixing it. It used about 5L for the 10km drive home and tapping away loudly the whole way.

Once I filled it and fixed it it wasn't the same but it still ran and drove fine. Just had lower oil pressure haha.

If you plan to change the motor, smash some stop leak and thick oil in and drive it.