SLO247

I wouldn't fit the newer one either. But since you are asking for advice, you could fit the XH spare wheel winch. They had those instead of a box. Same one on AU/BA/BF ute too. In saying that though they often fuck up.

Looks like X Series rails on them. Wonder how hard that is.

XG and H had E series seats. I have the ED Ghia Recaro style ones in the XG, they are pretty comfortable and supportive. There was a how-to on xfalcon years ago about putting au seats in with home made rails.

I've never heard one good thing about those desert cooler blokes.

Will do. Thanks.

Its just a weekender so don't really care about fuel costs, plan to run as much timing as I can! Yes Jim we all know. C1/E1 leaded, C2/E2 unleaded. D late XF commercial. Wrecked about 20 million of the god forsaken things in the last few years, every time I need parts I buy a car. Just like throwing my questions at the speedway fellas when it comes to go faster bits, I know fuck all.

I used to use a rubber spacer with that combo. No idea where it came from. As long as it gains compression I'm in, guessing it will necessitate 98? Not sure what octane rating leaded was anyway. What should I be paying to have it shaved?

Will an E2 at 48cc be an improvement over the XD Alloy head? Will definitely grab the rocker cover off it, I do have a Cain one I plan to use though.

I should word that better. Would having the E2 head shaved 30/40 thou and fitting it to my XD 250 provide a worthwhile gain? As in should I pull the head off the donor car before scrapping it. Not using the motor or cam. Did run an identical motor in my old ute though with the carby cam (for the pump) and intake and it seemed to go pretty well.

I dragged an XF ute out of a paddock the other weekend. Has an EFI motor fitted, unknown condition. Should I keep the E2 head it has? If I understand correctly it has bigger valves but also bigger chambers (lower comp). Having it shaved should give good compression, it would then be a good upgrade over the XD alloy head? It still has an 84da weber manifold too if anyone needs one.

Take it back. Never had a good experience with a crash shop yet.

Never seen them that bad. Pretty impressive.

Its not so bad. Practice on some scrap. Do LOTS of reading. I'd help but it's a long drive.

Yeah, a few good thick coats of highfill. Let it shrink for a while before rubbing. Maybe a month. Sorted. Unless you spend tens of thousands a paint shop won't even do that.

A booth would be worth every dollar. When I sprayed mine in my garage the biggest problem was over spray. Won't be a problem in a booth.

A few years back I bought a 350 holley and it came with a manifold to suit. Its a Torco or Torqo brand manifold. Looks like a copy of the redline 2 barrel, its for an alloy head. Anyone know about these? Googling turned up very little aside from they make or made speed parts in the US. I was planning to use it with the holley, extractors, 2.25" pipes and thermos (to hopefully free up a few more HP) on my XD 250.

If you can rent a booth its a no brainer. Do all your primer and high fill coats at home, wet rub it then do the top coats at the booth. If you have a big compressor that's a great start. A decent gun will only cost $100. Use single stage paint to avoid the hassle of clear and then you can easily wet rub and polish it to a good finish. Getting shit blown in your primer etc at home won't matter too much as you can rub it out. Haha. They never had clear on them anyway and it would have been acrylic too. No point stressing about rust and pitting until the paint comes off and you see what's left.

Do it at home, $1500 including a compressor and gun should do it easy for a basic acrylic job. Would be equivalent to a $5000 job if you could find one. If you can find a good mob expect to bleed money out your area, even then there's no guarantee. Lots of reading and some practice on scrap panels first. Its not difficult, just time consuming.

That surface rust will probably stay like that for another 30 years. Honestly. Rust used to scare me too but after a while you can tell what's what. When there's bubbles and flakes that's when you worry. Soda won't remove surface rust well from what I've read. Sand will likely cause some damage if they aren't careful. They all make a mess.

All good info, really appreciate it. I'll put this all into practice when I go to fit it. Just got sick of wondering about it so thought id ask. Economy isn't a concern as its only going to be a weekender.

I have a linkage setup to suit a redline manifold. Should work or be close to working.

You seem like you would be able to manage it yourself. Try asking on AFF, some of the guys with the older stuff should be able to point you in the right direction. Don't bother asking normal crash shops, they won't do it. They more do just insurance repairs with quick turn around.

Good info Ando thanks. I will do that. I've never touched anything with the rotary tool, just a normal grinding stone? I too have heard good things of the Ray Hall stuff so its promising to hear. Just weird I've never seen another one of these. I think I paid $50 for it, surely can't lose for that.

Will do thanks.

Would it be worth getting the die grinder in the mouth there? If its better than the Stromberg and manifold I'll use it, I already have it. Or should I go the weber? I have a manifold but no Weber, had a mint one but sold it... Thanks for the info.