SLO247

I've got a 92 XF ute here with the EST dizzy. Firstly it looks like the weber has been swapped to an earlier type with no tps on it. I plan to fit a holley anyway. In the interests of pissing off as much vacuum and emissions clutter as possible and to simplify things with the earlier weber and holley, I'd like to remove the EST ECU and loom and fit the early dizzy. Would I be correct in saying it goes straight in and the two wires are just run to the coil? I know the advance curve is graphed in, will I lose total advance over the EST unit? I'm quite a novice with carbys etc. What's the bare minimum needed for the weber to work? Vac from manifold, pcv, power to idle solenoid and choke, what else? Without the EST unit to run I hope to eliminate most of it.

Thanks!

Just throw the 250 in and use your existing manifolds etc. You don't need to change anything else. 4L ruins the character of the XD IMO. Give me the 250 any day. A tough one would be even better!

That's worth trying, would almost work with the front bar too.

Keen to see more. About to paint a ute myself.

Cool. Any pics?

What's it going into?

That was interesting. These days they would just replace the wheels.

Still a sexy wheel.

Definitely.

Slightly different tune and no speed limiter I reckon. Catch code will be different and part number will be a 94DT rather than 94DA to signify the Tickford shizzle. Waste of money though honestly, you won't notice a difference. Done it all before.

As long as its an EF XR6 one and to suit your trans (auto/manual) then yes, straight in. You won't notice a difference though.

Can anybody tell me which stickers were fitted to the back window of the XD ute and which locations? I have no idea if it was the same as the sedan or different. I want it to look fairly original. I know the sedan had the "let's advance Australia" one in the bottom left corner. Was the "economy for the 80s" an XE thing? Its an 81 if that makes a difference.

I suspected that may be the case. Thanks very much!

Good info thanks. As far as I know its stock so I'll leave them there for the time being.

As above. Alloy head. I also have Tri Ys ( maybe pacemakers) and some Genie ones. Which should I use?

OK thanks. I'll put a late Bosch one on it.

So good or shit?

I'd service it for a start too. Au has the adjustable S5 solenoid so you can increase the line pressure. Go a quarter turn on that while you're there. I have exactly the same problem on mine and I'll adjust mine when I get around to it.

That's just the later ones.

From memory there's a plug in the top then one in the bottom too. Its been a while but the starter wires were at the top I reckon, behind the dash surround. Google it for the wire colours then find them.

Right behind the bem.

Yeah I'd say its just getting worse. You could have it fixed up by a place like injectronics or even try reflowing all the joints yourself. The other thing to do is join the two wires for the starter circuit behind the BEM to bypass it. Can't remember which ones, some googling should find out.

As you hold the key to crank it smack the dash below and to tbe left of the steering wheel. Should crank. Its the BEM. Common problem. Dry solder joints. Starters are a bit irritating on the 4L, unlike the crossflow where it takes about 30 seconds...

Try feeding them 12v from a battery directly and see if they are faster. Fair chance the switches aren't great either.