gregaust

You could try cracking the steel line where it goes into the flex hose . That will tell for sure if it is the hose 

Your flex hose is ok????? I have had them close up with age. Being the LHR rotor was sus previous i'd be checking.

Could been some air trapped ? But if the hose was blocked would still give an ok pedal 

On 4/29/2018 at 11:15 PM, bear351c said:

Most efficient, and expensive, is the Stacked Plate coolers, usually have AN fittings. 

Yes , look up the PWR coolers . They come in push on hose also , stack plate type and very compact. They work awesome .

Be wary of using a used cooler. Even if the oil looks clean they can still hold contamination inside. Can be difficult also to flush fully but can if you flush real well with plenty solvent 

That's awesome deal for sure . They looked near full thickness anyway. Good to go now   Or should that be Good to STOP 

Good / Best practice to do them in pairs  

If not you risk uneven braking or pulling. Yes even rears can cause a car to pull undr braking.

You will need to measure the thickness , minimum from memory is 22.2mm or thereabouts 

That is the adaptor . Sorry about size of the pic, I had to reduce it down enough to post. Could email the bigger pic if you need. 

The swagelock fittings are good but I don't think the wall thickness of that tube is enough to support a good high pressure joint.

We use all swagelock fittings with natural gas @ 3000psi but the tubing is all thick wall stainless 

1 hour ago, deankdx said:

is that for the plastic housing pump ? there's another 90degree fitting available for that that can go into a saginaw(XF onwards pump) if someone knows what they are on about..

i've had to bend those pipes at the box end before using a jack handle or other lump of adjusting wood etc.

 

Pretty sure you are right, sure looks like the plastic pump type 

Loosen the pan , try to drop one corner down into a drain tray . 

I have used those diffs in a few XY's and XA with just the master no issues 

Sure is the same , just need the gear that is wound the opposite way for a c4 

That combined with template I just emailed should get you there  

 PM your email I can send a template 

That one will likely have the bigger clevo bell? But you can bolt on a 6 cyl bell, just be sure to use correct 1-3/4" bolts 

That'll be fine . Should have the normal valvebody 

Yep nice .... Definitely a late one . Does it happen to have a deeper pan or just normal? Reason I ask is there is also an odd C5 valvebody.

That one should have the fine thread front band adjuster and the larger cooler fittings 

I know these are clevo but same principal. 3/8 UNC countersunk , set nyloc as tight or loose as you need . I have done with a rubber shocky rubber under the but gives some cushion.

Never seen an alloy 6 cylinder bell that fits the Aussie motors . The alloy could be the early small 6 cylinder.

Use the 6 cylinder one . That looks like what that is . The 6cyl is 1/8NPT and fits in the adaptor from 3/8 NPT just like it is now 

On 8/13/2017 at 3:55 PM, CHESTNUTXE said:

i should count the input

Measure the diameter on the main smooth section. Early is .788", later is .839"

The 1970 was a unique one . The input shaft was a 26/26.  If yours has the breather on top it is a late trans . 

All the U.S C4's vary a little to ours in clutch counts etc based on what they were used behind , but essentially the same 

Interesting. It's likely a 67-69 mustang maybe? 

21 hours ago, CHESTNUTXE said:

yes but what box is it ?

67 , 24 spline C4. Is should have the good PRND21 valvebody. I think that converter was a mustang thing. I have seen before but not sure exactly what it's off 

That's it ..