gregaust

Then it's time for a stroker crank  

20 hours ago, Crebe said:

GregAust....they had auto and manual tunnels. Realy. What a stupid thing for a munufacturer to do. Just pick the bigest and go with that!

I agree it's crazy why .  Yes in the early falcons they did . I'm not 100% sure exactly which. Might been pre XP ? 

Might also been to do with some early 6 cylinders , 144 , 170 etc had a very small bellhousing pattern at the motor side and hence smaller bellhousing.

Those I think had the Ford o matic but when they went to the 200 auto went to the BW35

Came across it also when a friend got a U.S Falcon , was a 3 speed manual 6 cylinder.  When I built a C4 to go in it with a 302 the tunnel needed work

Up to XP i think was the auto + manual tunnels .  XR is same as all other Falcons .   A T400 fits right in XR as does a C6

2 hours ago, bear351c said:

Reckon this one looks like mine. The switch is in here.....

 

 

I know earlier models (1971-1973 Mustangs) run one under the shifter. Like a blue plastic 'half moon' thingy..... Dont know about the F100 's ??

Yes that's the most common FMX switch 

I think was some XA had switch on shifter 

About all TCI make that'll work is aluminium pans . Rest is rubbish.   P.A components are good , their builds better than TCI but still leave a lot to be desired compared to the cost.

A real good one from P.A I've seen inside 2 now . Their Prostreet 750 HP is nothing more than a Transgo shift improver kit in the valvebody . Yes , correct , basic shift improver not even a stage 2 or equivalent kit. Couple extra frictions , a planet and servo. 

The first I saw I thought was a joke or someone had been in there previous , but no the 2nd was same 

Be sure to get the correct fittings for the case , they are a straight NPS thread , NOT NPT

Stay well away from TCI , They are junk . I've had to repair 4 TCI C6's that guys here have bought. 

Better to have yours built , then you know what you have 

Their valvebodies are rubbish, many have a 2-3 flare as a standard feature  

That should work fine 

Should be the 7/16 UNC , all windsors are  same 

The issue with swapping BTR , up to AU the solenoids earth through the case . BA on the wiring harness is different and all gearbox earths return to ECU 

Just something to be aware of when you are setting up which computer to use . Harnesses can be swapped although there can be differences where the plug fits the main case 

They do make those factory rods as a repro now . They do work well . 

Thinking out loud , Could maybe make up some rods like caltracs similar to the factory ones that go above the diff . 

You can run caltracs with a super pro or Nolathane front bush works ok too.

That clip doesn't hold much . You could bend up a piece of flat steel to do similar 

On 6/3/2022 at 8:14 AM, CHESTNUTXE said:

also you cant put a early crank in a 79 onwards block because it will hit the block,later 460 cranks are slightly smaller on the counterweight ,and later blocks from d9te have a little bit taller deck height and is the one to go for if building a stroker,also D6 truck conrods are the same strength as cobra jet rods and im lucky to have a set,and also have better bolts.

Almost correct .. Spot on for the crank counterweights . The D9 blocks are same deck height, the difference is the bores are a bit longer downwards  which in a stroker setup adds a little extra for the piston.  Although in theory that is good , in reality it doesn't really make a huge difference 

.060" is fine. A lot go .080"

You don't really need the turkey pan tray. Those blue gaskets in that set work awesome  

Good move . Flat tops and D3 heads are the go . 

That's very interesting .. The Victor Reinz gaskets are good .  Those I'd say are a very nice choice . I use the VR nitro seal I've found work great  .  

Please just stay well away from the Felpro print-o-seal (Black teflon gasket with blue beads) They are rubbish.  They are coated for easy removal but the teflon coating allows them to creep around between the smooth surfaces . Most then leak coolant @ the front 

Just be aware , A BA/BF caliper is setup for a 28mm thick rotor .  A few years ago a mate got a kit that used the bigger calipers on a factory 24mm rotor .  Sure it's ok while everything is new 

The UPC kits did work ok but no longer made 

I have an RRS strut setup uses a VE Commodore caliper & 300mm rotor , they are brilliant 

20 hours ago, burnnotice1000 said:

Just looking at stroker cranks and stroke kits to 545 c.i. there is a million different kits available it's very confusing,seems about $2500 is the cheapest version with 4.500 stroke,but you get everything. 545 c.i is the biggest a STD block can take it seems

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Rarely do the kits ever work out . What I found is they are either flat tops or a dish way too big and the compression I was aiming for rarely worked out right .

 

One thing to watch is the balance . I have found the 4.15 & 4.3 strokes work out good . Can internal balance with minimal issue , I.E not lots of mallory metal.

 

If looking to the 545 / 4.5 stroke , the cast cranks can be tricky to balance . Usually the 4.5 stroke the forged crank is a better setup and easier to balance .

 

The 545 is at .030" . It's not uncommon to be able to go .080" in a factory block to make 557 

But keep in mind the bigger the cubes the better the head required  No matter how good the cast iron heads are ported they are still restricted in the short turns 
 

Looking very neat ....

On 2/19/2022 at 9:01 PM, bear351c said:

Agreed.  Done the conversion on the XB, from drum to disc brake 9", haven't changed a thing.  Brakes hard and straight. Heard many stories about rears locking up, etc, but haven't had it on both conversions I've done. Fully rebuilt calipers from an XC/ZH, and new discs. 

Spot on yes . Done many the same XY , XA XC XD with the XC calipers and XF and no issues at all .

As long as you have the XC or XD front lever also for the handbrake you'll be sweet .

Any of those are an ok option for a mild setup . Don't get caught up in the whole HP robbing thing. For your setup you'd never notice.

Anyway a roller bearing in a C6 at the rear helps free them up and available as a bolt in deal .

The C4's are around but pricey . If you're rebuilding  budget in for a planet as most are worn out .

The C6 is tough as as long as the pipes will fit as above . The right parts and a shift kit help nicely. And a tube dipstick will fit in a Falcon no problems .

The FMX with a good rebuild and transgo shift kit is all it will need . As long as it is ok parts wise to start with , and pay attention to the forward drum bore where the sealing rings run . A lot are worn but can be sleeved .

FMX + C4 are same length so tailshaft will fit with correct yoke .

C6 likely need tailshaft shortened 

On 2/2/2022 at 4:36 PM, burnnotice1000 said:

Yeah it's just a stage 1 , the 400 will love it

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I used a lot of that spec cam many years ago . Several manufacturers made basically same grinds . They were a real nice all round cam in a 302 or 351. In a 400 it will make great torque 

On 12/20/2021 at 3:39 PM, bear351c said:

Weird number on the power valve 2.75 ?? Only thing on it...

 

 

Don't suppose anyone has any base plate screws.??   Only found 6 !

 

 

They usually only have 6 base plate screws , 2 spare holes .