gregaust

That's it Robbie . R servo , yes I like will do you just fine Those 2 round cast discs in the bottom of the pic will have a year and month cast in

Thanks Robbie lol .. Be good to see Cav . Do some pics as you go we can compare notes and see what you have exactly . If you need assistance just shout will help if I can .

Got fair bit of info on these The lockup I believe is a centrifugal lockup but I think it is only a U.S thing for the lockup. I've been into a couple C5's here and we did not get lockup. The C5 ( Sly , yes this one is legit ) is a late C4, 80's onwards . They will be marked with a casting code on the same side as the shift lever commencing with "E2" Internally they are near identical to most C4, few minor differences .The front band adjuster will be fine thread There are a few slight lube imprpvements The valvebody in the Clevo pan fill ones I've done has been just a normal C4 style . The only odd C5 valvebody I've seen came from a 1984 F truck, it had the "P" valvebody, deep pan etc Normal C4 rebuild parts will mostly get you by. If in doubt, pull it down and show me some pics , I can guide you through

Camtech for the win. I dealt with Jim. Awesome product and service . I'll be going back

I think it is 18. Colour doesn't always match up a lot are just grey.

No one here does it any more. I went to place at AcaciaRidge that used to but no longer do. I had to send away down South through Harrison's .. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

That would be correct

If that is the Felpro gaskets , black material with the blue bead they are garbage

You should be able to

The bearing wont fit the std bushed top cover, you need the kit comes complete with a washer that's reqd. I get mine from ATP motospecs

Top cover? They come as a kit ready to bolt on is best way

Not sure in gauge , but I use 16mm2 cable that is rated @ 100 amps , use a 100 amp mega fuse at the battery . I run the 100 amp cable forward , split it to feed a junction block for fans MSD etc etc the go forward to the alternator . I use the gold stereo type distribution blocks . They have the 100 amp cable in and 4 6-8 mm cables out

Ford_Man.. That description of what you have is so mixed up it hurts me to read it . Transgo rebuild kit? Transgo make shift kits for valvebody's . not rebuild parts . Manual Valve Body?? A Transgo stage 3 kit maybe to convert to manual?? Or maybe reading further on I think you have parts from PTC? One of their MVB? If so good choice R series billet servo?? No such thing. R servo is a factory servo on a lot of Clevo C4's . A very good servo all the same . The billet servo are either based on a H servo ( P.A or TCI ) or the most popular being the Sonnax brand with the purple cover being based on a C servo . 4 pinion planet + good . likely from PTC . Very nice piece . HiTuff 4340? Input shafts are either Hituf or 4340, 2 different types . 6 clutch fwd moly hub?? The Chrome moly hub from PTC is a nice piece . The hub is one piece , the 6 clutches is separate really , usually the 6 clutch is for the high/reverse though I do put 6 clutches in the forward in a trans behind a motor making a lot of torque . For interest I have tried 5 forward clutches with 600+ RWHP and no sign of any slip Not picking here , just trying to help you understand what you have Ah yes the old C10 thing again lol . Good to see you mention Gassed250 No such thing. They are all C4 , C10 is a slang term for a Clevo Pan fill trans Now to the original question. A C4 built right will laugh at 500 HP. A C6 is a good choice also. The FMX will work too, prob not the wisest choice but if you had FMX already it can work ok .

XC + XE boosters are same

Don't think it really makes any difference .

Use correct trans cooler line . DO NOT USE FUEL LINE . It will go spongy and fain in no time . I like the PWR 280 x 250 x 19 and have proven they work well on a few different transmissions fitted with temp gauges Derale is another that I have used works good

Don't think I'd be too happy with that outcome on a new manifold

Yeah. I don't get it. How is it hollow in the middle but the end of the thread solid? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Try Keensert. They use a larger hole than a helicoil. It is steel threaded insert. Will work sweet there. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Try sealing the bolt threads. It might work. Use a thread sealer. The gasket between the plate and pump is not really replaceable Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Those dipsticks can be a pain to fill and read the level near on impossible if it uses the grey plastic dipstick. There are some newer ones that were a metal stick looked ok

Simplest way is a plate on the bottom to go through the shocky mount and just the saddle for the bottom. A plate on top and some HT booker rod, at least 19 mm, I used 24mm .. I also used and old taper bearing and cup under the top nut . The original tool was made by Litchfield is the one I copied

Any of the hook types are risky . Best as suggested some H.T booker rod and some steel plates, no chance it going anywhere then.

I've used Wasp a few times have been good

That'd be an old pump. They've not made them in a while if it's the one I'm thinking. I did have. A Dominator 350 pump but it had issues right from new pretty much. The issue was the bottom plate was too tight and partially seized the pump and pop the fuse. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk