user272

Sure mate, I’ll PM you 

Of course he will!

just a few days late is all

On 1/24/2020 at 12:29 PM, Abela said:

Hey mate, I have the same issues, exactly like yours. Can you please give me the details of the person who fixed for you? How much did you pay? I'm here in melbourne.. Thanks 

I’ll pm u his details mate, hopefully you’re already sorted but if not he’s great at what he does.

Wait, so my dads trick of wrapping a blown fuse in foil and reinstalling it is no good..?

Good video, 2 things worth spending extra cash on for quality are fuses and electrical meters, I've seen a lot of very cheap meters on sites and in shops and it blows me away that anyone would actually rely on them.

Sony also return to demo mode after power loss.

Ive considered replacing my head unit in the XF purely because of this haha. Every time I look at it it’s just bragging about all the things it can do and I’m just thinking “Fuck off Sony, I already bought you!”

I followed Panko's lead and went DBA T2 slotted rotors and Bendix ultimates on the XF, been very happy with them.

Love the ratchet strap, I often find that when I don't have an apprentice with me at work that a ratchet strap is a more than adequate replacement.

I should probably get around to servicing my diff too but i just keep finding reasons not to.

Eski was looking good today mate, passed you on the way home from work around Heidelberg.

If not, you may have an impostor to deal with.

Yeah the guy I dealt with told me to use output 3 which is AC but the XF needed DC, I cant remember if we went output 4 or 5 in the end but you just have to see which is closest and then calibrate from there.

Yeah mate, the car wont even know anything has changed

http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=126/prd126.htm

I thought I'd put up a post about this in case anyone else has done similar dash/trans conversions and is looking to get their speedo working again.

After 2 years of driving the XF with no speedometer after the TH400 gear box installation I decided it was probably a good idea to get it sorted out.

I spoke to a company in Heidelberg who were very unwilling to give any information and told me that I was going to have to leave the car with them for at least 2 days with no specified cost so I basically thought these guys can get fucked and then left (Last time i left the car with someone to get the diff worked on I got it back as a two speed, hence the TH400 change over leaving me without a speedometer).

I did some research and ended up buying a Dakota Digital SGI5 -E to change the sine wave from the gear box's VR type sensor to match the square wave of the XF dash, once set up the calibration was very easy just using my GPS and adjusting the units PPM to suit. The unit was small enough to tuck in underneath the XF's cassette holder compartment out of site, The dash now operates like nothing was ever changed and I no longer have to carry a GPS at all times.

The unit cost $200 from Hotrod Hardware but is well worth it in my opinion as it both modifies and re calibrates the signal to suit your application.

A big thanks to Antonio and Michael at Autobarn Epping for helping me out with the technical bits.

Nothing like a nice kick in the guts for the long weekend...

Sorry to hear that mate.

Is the vibration instant or does it get worse as you drive?

Could be the brake system applying slight pressure and heating up the brakes, it happened to my old BA and shook the whole car, that was discs though.

Nothing worse than doing a job twice (sway bar ref).

Still looking forward to seeing this car mate, impressed with the progress.

Quick shift of the auto with no clutch + changes gears exactly when you want it to where as if your driving an old school auto without tiptronic you don't get full control of the gear changes.

Necessity of the conversion depends on the use of the car, apparently auto's also tend to be a stronger box, I know of a kingswood that blew a few manuals before going auto.

You dont need a choke niggapotamus, I use a can of aerostart and a butane lighter refiller to bring the XF to life in the morning, its like an anti theft mechanism.

Looking forward to seeing this car on the next meet, big pig little pig?

I love the brick sitting in front of the back wheel to hold back the power while your'e not looking...

The whole car looks unreal, great score

I had a brake fluid leak on my old BA a few years ago, before It was found my mechanic said to test if its the booster/master cylinder to pump the pedal with the ignition off until it goes firm, then start the engine with your foot still firm on the pedal and see if it pulls in. Pulling in being normal operation.

I had this problem with a Vectra once, in my case the mechanism between the gear stick and the transmission became disconnected. Do you feel anything when park engages or does the gear stick move freely like as if there is nothing attached?

Hope you get on top of it soon mate, Nothing worse than doing that fiddly shit over and over.

I sprayed my mirrors with rattle can acrylic as I was lucky enough that it comes in silver grey, I rubbed back the old paint before using the plastic primer filler that I used on the bumpers then sprayed the colour and clear.

Mine came up great but i have once had a reaction very similar to your description which was because I tried to make enamel and acrylic be friends when I sprayed my wiper arms.

I used all acrylic products on my mirrors, Ill have a look through the shed and see if I can find what brand primer I used.

Pretty sure the primer I used was Motospray bumper prime & sand also just rattle can. Mine needed a bit of work to neaten up when I started.

Pro-chem dandenong mate, cant give much info price wise but couldnt be much closer and have everything I've needed for work.

Sorry mate I read Dandenong for some reason, might be a bit out of your way unless they have other branches

Looks very different to when I saw them mate, Good job

Thanks heaps for the replies guys.

This proved to be far to fiddly for me so after hours of trying to make it work, a lot of swearing and the death of an innocent iphone who was just in the wrong place at the wrong time I decided to call upon a lock smithing wizard.

This guy was a fucking genius, he said its an anti theft feature so the car cant be started without the key and then got out some dentist tools to click it back into place.

At first he said the column may need to come out but after a couple of tries he fixed it while in position.

The car still needs to go to Ford about the intermittent starting issue but at least now I wont be getting it towed there.

No more tools on this car, sticking with the XF from now on...

Thanks again guys.

Hey guys, Following ignition issues with the FGX and visits to 2 ford dealers who wouldnt touch it cos its saturday I had a look at it myself as the car is needed on Monday. I removed the barrel and ignition switch, cleaned out the barrel (no dismantling just air and graphite) went to put it back in position finding that the little connecting piece in the center seemed to have dislodged somehow, it doesnt feel tight at all but has only tiny movement in either direction and isnt allowing the barrel to slot into place or turn it.

Anyone else tried this method of immobilising their vehicle and how did you fix it?

preferably answers relating to more modern cars.

Thanks guys.