Gaz

You already mentioned earth and you will hear it more than once, but check your earths lol. Seriously, I've found the biggest problems with these old bangers is the battery leads and the myriad of earth leads that come off the battery. Especially when people change the battery to a different type of post and have to add a thousand crimp terminals. Your symptoms sound like an earthing problem because your poor earth on a particular circuit, is only completing the circuit through a completely different cicuit.

I agree Sean, exactly what I suggested back in post #18

I used to be able to piss over an 8 foot wall at primary school. I can't even piss upwards at all now. But seriously. Exactly the same, but totally different.

Adding another switch isn't going to help. They're wired in parallel as a safety precaution only, so if one fails, the other one hopefully still works. If your brake lights work now, that isn't the issue. I'll try and dig up a diagram.

The only plug thats installed in a pov pack that's used for cruise is the one to the trans loom, which every car has anyway. All the rest of the cruise loom is exclusive. High end might be different. Don't worry about clutch switch, I ran XdEE for years without one, but make sure you run double brake light switches, and source the power supply from a good reliable point preferably close to the battery or even relayed for maximum reliability. If you don't, the cruise will drop out when any extra current is drawn elsewhere.

It's poly green. It always looks darker on utes for some reason.

Stupid question, but is it efi?

Old mechanics tip #2 Pull that stinkin' coil off the side of the block and mount it on top of the manifold. If you get it in the perfect spot, the coil lead will still reach the dissy. You will need to extend the low tension lead.

Jack it up, put in reverse (engine off, ignition on) and loosen and twist the switch. When the rev lights come on, lock up the switch and then check all your inhibitor and selector functions.

No, not plugged. Yes it's sealed You know that orange shit takes between 24 hrs to 7 months to cure don't you?

Through the xmember is the right way to do it as it keeps the cable fully supported but you HAVE to use a bracket to hold the cable in line with the hole in the bell-housing or you will destroy them every time.

afaik all XD 6 cyl water pumps are the same, but I was wrong about something once, so this could be the second time.

I've got a new pump in Melbourne outer eastern suburbs you can have for 25. And there's an old mechanics trick to avoid dismantling the whole car to install them.

They V8?

air flow meter ok?

Do the port faces look like they've been machined? Maybe a customer return after a fuck up. I don't think removing (or hammering in) the dowels are going to get it anywhere close enough even if you used a massively thick gasket or spacer on both sides.

lol. I use what they use.

I use graphite powder or silicon spray

I've got one nos Ford one but saving it for a rainy day. They're just a mild steel hex bar with a thread in one end and a tube brazed in at a right angle in the other end. Cad plated, def not brass. It's almost easier to just replace the hp line with a late XE/XF line.

It's nothing like mine but it might do the job. It's cheap enough but. Last time I replaced mine, (about 10 years ago) the removal tool was about 80 and the installation tool about 65. If you're in Melbs I can do it for you. Try Ford for the adaptor or Enzed or Pirtek. Enzed Bayswater used to make them for me in batches of 20 when I was doing them full time, when the Ford price went through the roof, but it would be a slow moving part for them now.

All adjustable columns had the "square look" xf covers. All column auto XF and XG had the "round XD/XE look".

He's got skills. Gareth KLR250 posted that on poxfalcon about 5 years ago.

Looks more like Polynesian Green to me

Nah, somethings very wrong there. Pic 5 shows the lever sitting too high