Gaz

Yes Thom. The only difference in the housing is the lower mounting hole being half a hole out. If you ever see or know anyone wrecking an early Fairlane or Falcon/Fairmont with ram steer, (XR/T/W/Y or ZA/B/C/D) grab the box out of it. It's exactly the same as every other 16:1 with a different pitman arm. And in fact they usually rebuild better because there's been less load on the worm bearings.

Nah they're a cunt. They have teflon seals on the worm and on the piston which need streching to fit, and then they have to be compressed before they will fit in their respective bores. If they're not compressed properly you'll nick the seal and it's game over. And the worm seal is loaded from the inside Special tools all the way. And the preloads are critical, and the sector gear wears which make correct lash near impossible unless they're reground. Easier and less of a headfuck to buy a changeover. But give it a crack if your confident.

Don't believe everything you read Cav. If anyone anywhwere can tell me there was an actuall difference in XA3524A and XD3524A apart from the material that the spool is made out of, then I'd hang my head in shame. Even the fact that I mentioned XAGT is only because it's well documented, even though I could never "feel" any difference on the test rig. Orange stripe boxes were right angle outlet.

They're all exactly the same internally except XAGT which had a different worm and XG had the roller cap. The only difference externally is that all XD/ZJ/FC had the longer return tube.

A little off-topic but worth showing anyway. FB post from a while ago. Unfortunately we lost a battle with the QLD government and their ridiculous legislation. That was always gunna happen because, honestly, Queensland, like much of greater Adelaide, still go by the Juilian and not the Gregorian calendar, meaning, they live in 1953. Sniping aside, what I never saw in any of the debating was actual value added data. All I saw was anecdotal evidence that young drivers are over represented in crash stats. Well did anyone ever think to tell them that it because young people drive more, and are on the road at high risk times? Does it also mean that at 49, with a 650 hp car, that I am fine? I can't be a hoon cause I'm not young? What I never heard mentioned, either, was any info from the coal face. Someone with a background like mine who actually went to prangs and literally scraped idiots off the road. Here's a stat for you. I never investigated a collision that was directly caused by a roadworthy fault in a car. I never investigated a collision that involved a custom modified, properly built car. Yeah I did prangs involving modified cars, and prangs involving so called Hoon behaviour. Of 350 prangs over 8 years, these represtened about 1% of what I attended. That's a value added stat for you. My opinion as an ex collision investigator? Road Safety doesn't work. And No hoon law or anti hoon law is gunna make a spot of difference to any road toll other than line the pockets of num nut politicians who in affect and just introduced a new tax so they don't have to spend as much time saving money for proper causes. Publish this comment if you like. I will stand before any committee, any meeting, any debate, and no one, no scientist, politician, so called road safety do-gooder will ever convince me anything different to what I have seen with my own 2 eyes.

Been done before but needs engineering.

TRW are back apparently. They've stopped using the triple5 name I believe and the stuff I saw in a catalogue (might have been Autobarn?) looked like the ones they used to make in Marrickville in the 80's/90's with the non-greasable urethane insert.

And how does it stop now?

They'd be shit cheap shit Trev. I've had to pick up or repair at least 20 or 30 Holdens on the side of the road in the 35 years I've been fucking with cars, but never seen a Ford one let go. And don't worry, I've swapped out plenty of absolutely rooted ones, but they are never original riveted or 80's/90's TRW units. They've always been the shitpot dodgy Asian crap that only lasts 2 years max.

I've NEVER seen a Falcon ball joint fail. Yes they'll be fucked and break open and run dry and have about 20 mil movement but they never let go. You could drive that that for another 10 years and the only problem you will have is a clunky front end, poor steering and unevenly worn tyres. I'd drive around Australia on it no problems.

So you bridged the T terminal, checked and adjusted the timing, and then removed the jumper? If you don't remove the jumper it will revert to limp mode. If you don't bridge before adjusting, you can be up to 10 degrees out.

If it's just the fan hitting, take it off. Or cut the fins like Dizzy had to do.

Why do you keep mentioning vac? Stop mucking around with the carby and set the timing according to the procedure in the book. If you don't get your base timing correct, the computer won't know how to compensate and no matter how many times you check the timing it will never be correct.

+1

Fuckin hell, my first car was an XL falcon with drums all round and a leaky rear wheel cylinder. I'd top the master up with auto trans fluid because you couldn't buy brake fluid in a 4 litre container in 1980. Never had a problem except the right rear would lock up when I even thought about touching the brake pedal. The moral of the story? Draw your own conclusions!

I've never changed a timing cover. Pita job and introduces more chance of future oil leaks. Modification of existing timing cover is easy.

No metal pegs. Body tape won't work, there's really nothing on the mould for it to stick to. I got mine from Rares/Auto One. The ends of each mould are supposed to use a nut type jobbie, but rares only have the original push in type.

XG lock assembly is a one off. E-series and XH had a a narrower column. The Tibbe barrels are all interchangeable, but you need to start with an XG assembly.

If it's bent, it's right.

I've always used a small flat screw driver and some gentle persuasion. A smack on the edge to create a dimple and then use that to tap it around. Once you've gone about 1/2 a turn it will be finger tight

If you've seen his heads and know that they aren't clevo then that makes sense because everybody knows Boss are a clevo style head, but I don't know Stu or his heads so I don't know what he's got. I also don't know if he could tell a clevo head from a nissan pintara distributor so I was just stating fact. Another fact is that no 289 came out with guide plates

Do you have a casting number? If they are C8OE-F they are 1968 4V's with 53.5cc as in XT GT's If they are C9ZE-A (63cc) or D0ZE-A (58cc) they are Boss heads with screw ins and guide plates. But anyone can install them, so the way to tell Boss heads is the staggered valves to accomodate the massive valve size. Safe to say if your valves aren't staggered, then the studs and guide plates have been installed. HP 289's also had 4V heads ranging from 49.2 to 54.5cc

Oh, I get it. Open OR closed. Thought you meant swinging it.

XW/XY had a couple of different types but I couldn't imagine they would repo anything but a 54H type but who knows? Don't forget that XA onwards had a wider shock tower spacing so that might have a bearing on the width of the crossmember. I'd just weld a chunk of eighth or quarter plate in there. (See how old I am? 3 mil. or 6 mil. plate then)

Then its deteriorated or exposed wiring through the door jamb or inside the door. Won't be the switches.