steve mcqueen

Sparky, your right i did take this off a EL Falcon, the car is sitting under my bedroom window and been there a couple of years and should of remembered what it was, anyway you get the idea. And, your right on the money here to, id forgotten about the 'little cover on the choke knob' that comes off to reveal a small nut that holds it in place. Perhaps i was thinking of the headlight switch knob to that has the little white button? Anyway, thanks for the memory jog, now i look like a knob hahahahahahahaa

Had this happen in a EF Wagon i had years ago, took me by surprize and im like 'WTF' Was easy to replace but still a pain in the bum to happen.

Did you get the fascia off ok? From memory the choke knob has the little 'white coloured' piece in it you 'push in' then the knob just pulls off, then just undo the nut behind it and that should be it i think the hazzard light switch is the same? Going back to the 6x9's in the rear parcel tray, this is my end result, fits like a glove and when bolted down at the front with some small mounting hardwear makes a great base for sound. I decorated mine with a Falcon badge off an EF Falcon and a smidge bit of glue. And from the other side, i just bought a cheap arse yoga mat from big w and spray glued it (like the black carpet) to it to absorb vibration between it and the MDF its made from on the steel parcel shelf. Its ready to go back in permanently any time now. The MDF doesn't touch the glass back window and is a tad smaller than the original due to it not 'flexing' making fitting easy and the black carpet hides this fact.

Noobs, i bought a kit from this seller on evil bay for Goldie and you described what i got, all WASP brand stuff except for the road safe product. Cant get the stuff through Repco in TRW or Transteering brands so i bought the wasp kit off Rob on ebay.

Mark, here is my finished door with speaker set up (you get the idea) I screwed the spacer to the trim from the other side and i put a long screw in the front and in to the door frame and just nipped it up to make it feel solid and to help prevent vibration. I put the shorter window winder on i bought after i 'tweeked it' (had to drill a hole to mount it per Ford, it normally went on with the metal clip) I have no idea what car it came off, but i think its a Toyota? of sorts. Seems to want to work ok.

Mark, i been working on door speakers for Goldie for months. I bought a set of 6.5'' door speakers and then went about 'dummy fitting' one in an old door i had. Man what a head f#*k that was!!! I bought a set of these http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6-5-inch-165mm-GREY-CARPETED-MDF-SPEAKER-SPACERS-25mm-adaptors-carpet-/250861094111?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a687c84df to 'lift the speaker away' from the glass for when it goes up and down but then had the problem of the XF window winder being to long and wouldn't allow the winder to do complete revolutions as it would hit. So, what to do? Mate, buying the correct set of speakers would assist greatly here and as mine were nearly $200 i couldn't waste them. So perhaps a smaller set of speakers like,,,, http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/KENWOOD-KFC-E1365-5-1-4-E-SERIES-250W-2-WAY-SPEAKERS-PAIR-30W-RMS-CAR-AUDIO-NEW-/191306330236?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c8abef07c would be ideal??? as they mite already have enough clearance for the glass window not to hit them and for the factory window winder to work correctly? I also bought these to over come the window winder prob but it created a new one they look great but mount with a stupid old weak as piss grub screw. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HOTROD-OR-CUSTOM-ALLOY-INNER-WINDOW-WINDERS-3-inch-INCLUDES-ALL-FITTINGS-/181433642629?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a3e49ae85 and on operation, they feel shit and want to come off. I bought today from a wrecker some shorter factory handles off some car??? (they were already off in a box with a heap of others) and im hoping tomorrow to make them work. Id love for the other members to chime in, including pics and show what they have done in hope "im not missing something" (c'mon team) and me and mark will be watching close.

Mark, perhaps some right angle iron in 2 small 60mm (6cm long) length's zapped to the bar instead, that way you can access the bolt from the light, get a spanner on it to tighten and what not. If you stood up the iron on its edge facing the front you could master it like that and once all wired back up some white paint and presto

I thought about this last year glenn. Do-able i reckon, choosing the unit tho would be a headache? You would have to measure the hole you want to put it in and then measure some of the units out there. Plus make a custom 'fascia' for the whole shebang, but.... with your skills you could make it work.

Mark, can you "Zap" that square tube to the roll bar and do away with those nasty lookin U bolts? (would only need a weld here and there) Appearance is everything

Repco has their own brand car covers that come in medium, large or xtra large and has the size on the side of the box. Measure your car from front to back then check em out. At least worth a look.... They have a 3 year or might be 4 year warranty (i forget now) are water proof to a degree, and have a soft inside lining to stop scratching paint. And this weekend there is 25% off if you present your nrma card (in NSW, I guess its right across oz?) Dont have nrma? borrow your mates card they need to scan the bar code on the back is all.

Im thinking and earth mark, do the lights have good contact for an earth point? Im guessing the roll bar has a few layers of paint and might not be making a good earth? They have power but no earth?

Did it even come with the cover plate that goes over the clock?

Should be a case of just removing the blanking plate for the clock, the wiring plug maybe there behind it???? The clock just screws into place and then plug and play if the Factory plug is there. Been awhile since i stuck my head in a XD dash, (i only have the stereo left now its hooked up in the shed) but i think there is a bracket at the back the new unit will slide into??? And see how my purple/blue facia has the holes? i drilled them and the plastic behind it and used small small allen head screws to mount and hold it in place in the front. The small small allen head screws i used were from a xf fairmont speaker door trim but you could use anything.

Thanks Mr bear. Made one for my old purple XD about 20 something years ago, i used 4 ply i think for that puppy. Made another for a XF i had years ago to, i on sold that car. Made one for Nana, another XF. Made one for dads XM. We didn't put speakers in it, just needed a parcel tray. And did this one for project goldie only yesty.

You wont lose your AC, or hazzard lights etc by removing the stereo, they on separate panels. As someone else said "pull the knobs off your radio, undo the small thin bolts that hold it in place" tube socket, size 13mm or 1/2, i have used long nose pliers to get them off to. Use the existing power and negative wire's for your new unit. wire up speakers and presto. Now my pics. This is the stereo i was running in my XD many moons ago. It was in the dash with this. It run door and dash speakers and the 6x9's i had in the rear parcel tray. Now only yesty, i made another parcel tray from MDF for my current project which is an XD but XE and XF are almost the same, they so close. I had the old Ford Factory parcel tray as a template and i traced around it for the same basic shape. Then using the 6x9 speaker template that comes on the speaker box i traced it onto the MDF and cut it out with a jigsaw. Then once it was all trimmed up (the jigsaw is an awsome little machine) the speakers fit like this. Ill dress the MDF up with a bit of automotive carpet you can buy from Bunnings, ill throw some light, thin foam, (just buy a yoga matt from Big W for it) on it, glue it with some spray adhesive, its just to help prevent vibration you mite get and ill screw it down at the front, which will be under the back seat once you pull it out for the install. You shouldn't have to cut your metal parcel tray (i didn't have to cut mine) but if your having issues with clearence buy some of these just to 'lift them up' a smidge. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6x9-inch-BLACK-CARPETED-MDF-SPEAKER-SPACERS-32mm-adaptors-carpet-DOUBLE-HEIGHT-/250956926060?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a6e32cc6c Just a foot note.... When making the MDF rear parcel tray, you will have to trim a little more of the sides which run down the C pillar to clear the sides of the roof that come down. Also, you mite have to 'taper off' the back edge of the MDF to fit under the back window rubber (just use a file or grab some 60 grade sand paper and place it round a smooth block of wood then sand away. Ive made about 4 of these things now in my life time for different X falcons all needing a tweek here and there for best results. Once you made it you will get a great sound from your new stereo. Let us know how you get on.

Get rid of the old AM thing and replace it with a basic CD unit from Pioneer or Sony. As SLO says you can buy new radio/cd surrounds which you may need? See here. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Falcon-XD-XE-Radio-dash-facia-plate-only-Grey-NEW-/110997315440?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d7f49f70 If your like me, music/sound/radio is important in the car so buy some good speakers for the front dash and get some 6x9's for the rear. Make a good solid MDF parcel tray for them to fit into. Cut it with a jigsaw and bobs your uncle. Wire the hole shebang up with some speaker cable from say Jcar or Supercheap etc, grab some cable ties from Big W or some cheap place like that to tie all the wiring out of the road and do i nice neat job, should be able to have a great sound, nice looking unit in the car over a weekend.

Thanks guys, great team work. Im prolly gonna buy the one from wagoon, we discussing now.

Hey team. Im looking to get a replacement X series tailgate for a mates XF ute over the next couple of weeks. There are some sellers of these on evil bay and wanted your opinions on these after market tailgates. So,,,,, Have you ever bought one and what was the fit and finish like? Links please if you can help out or just some feed back.

Yeah wow. First off, the XF sedan has coil over suspension and the XM has leaf springs so thats gonna need big mods. Tho if its an XF ute or wagon you mite, mite be in luck??? The XM has a short narrow diff in it and the XF has a big longer diff in it, so your prolly have to pump your rear quaters or narrow the diff??? XM falcon's had drum brakes and most XF's had disc brakes, so you will need the booster to. If you have to go to extreme mods then you wouldn't waste your time. You would find an early diff from a Mustang and adopt that bad boy in instead. Front brakes mmmmm, you need a kit for these?? Actually, id check out the Castlemaine Rod shop for front and rear brake kits. Will the T5 even fit in that narrow as hell tunnel? Only a small hand full in here own early Falcons, but they do have knowledge. Perhaps check out members cars in the Early Falcon Car Club. http://earlyfalconnsw.blogspot.com.au/

Re skinning this bad boy im gonna say is a no go as the inside skin is shagged and rusted out to. If i can get a good second hand Ford item id be real happy. I haven't looked yet for one so ill go see whats out there.

That dont sound real well. thanks for the heads up.

Legend buddy, i knew it was one of em. Good work.

What gearbox are you using in this car? 4/5 speed manual or column shift auto or T-bar auto???? If using the column shift auto doesn't the steering column interfere with the power steer box? I remember this was talked about age's ago on another forum and im just double checking before this guy starts pulling the whole shebang apart.

Hey bud. I had this same issue on a XF ute i had years ago and i changed out the whole rods and mechanism crap for a good second hand unit and presto, it works. My sister has this car as an old farm hack now and its still working. Find a good door you can test on a car and get the guts from it and get a new handle to, pretty cheap on evil bay.

The barrel is easy, just pull that 'slide spring' out (thats what im gona call it) I find if you push the barrel from the outside the slide spring will do just that, slide on out with a gentle pull. That plastic white clip that connects to the rod, i think 'pops open' to and the rod will fall out? Cortina used these i believe? You mite have to lift the door handle so you can get a smidge more room in there. Take note at how it all goes back togther.