steve mcqueen

Noob, no there is a cavity behind my battery, between the rear quarter and the other side which is covered with a piece of ply, I don't plan on using that space. I needed the space in my engine bay and is why I located the batt to the boot. Good question to mcfly tho. Why do you have to move the batt to the boot?

Yeah this is my location in the boot of my XD. I just tech screwed the marine box to the floor of the car and 'presto" it aint going no where.

Just my opinion, but why fix something that aint broken? Id leave it as is. You have described a great working motor and that's what we all want and for the sake of 1 or 2 HP you want to change it? Totally up to you mate but id keep it as is. Your mechanic knows how to tune it and can get you 600K's per tank. Nah don't mod it just love it the way it is. Oh tell us about the green laser, Palmer tube mills.

What ever you buy you want to be able to incorporate it into your up coming engine build. (still think AU 4 litre would be awesome) If you spend $600+ on a carby and manifold and cant use it on your new donk, well you don't need me to tell you "that was a waste of money" With that in mind, id buy a second hand webber from a working car and chuck it on keep the change for the engine build/conversion

Yes, having the nolathane will make the car feel tight, will turn into corners a bit better thus improving your steering but... the nolathane is hard as, not like rubber where it is softer so gives a more cushioning effect. The spring saddles are fine. Unless your's are flogged out no need to replace. Nolathane spring saddles are like $150 a pair give or take standard jobbies are half that price and some come with a grease nipple Sway bar mounts keep in nolathane, idler arm in nolathane, The radius rod bushes id change back, and id replace the shortend shocks you have for a standard pair in ultima, or pedders. I have 2 x falcons one has Kings and the other has Pedders. My falcon with pedders is far better than kings so perhaps a future spring change aswell for you?

Id get rid of half that nolathane to. Replace it with the standard Kelpro gear.

Id have to say the same. Id blast the shite out of that with a high pressure cleaner get rid of all that paint that aint sticking, no suds, then start again. Rub it back, make sure its clean, again no suds. Use a quality plastic primer, none of this rubbish in a aerosol can. Use something buy Spies Hecker or Baslac Then do the clear over base per normal. Give it to a smash repairer to fix.

There you go, I did not no the XE had a bolt on job. Ive had 2 XE's and both were auto and I was sure they had the same set up as XF.

We want to see pics of this so called busty girl or ban

Didn't know there was an "off the shelf" unit available. The XD Falcon was the only car to have a clutch cable reinforcement bolt off and on the firewall? (I think the XC had one to but don't quote me) XE, XF had a small tube just welded to the firewall and its so common for it to crack around the area. So depends what car you want to put it on, I believe a 'custom job' might be in order.

I think Mcfly needs to read this thread. A powerful motor with 178rwkw cost less than $500. Thom, you the man

Yeah I thought one end of the EF leaf spring (one of the spring eyes) was completely different to XF spring eyes? I was gonna use EF wagon springs in my XD but couldn't because one spring eye on the EF leaf spring were massive in size compared to XD. I would think XF the same. Let us no how you go with the change.

That would be awesome. With some team work and parts from stock ford engines we could build an engine that gives great response for either towing or reliability and a plus if we could do it on the cheap.

4kg's clint, in weight, that's huge for almost identical items. Great camera shots to, no blurry images from you.

Whats that, a pre crossy what? LPG powerd to? what pre crossy donk has a big side cover plate on it?

Yeah that might be ok, but most would have the old "240 volt jobbie" its these that hate hot water that comes straight from your tap.

you'll find most high pressure cleaners don't like hot water going through them and this actually kills them dead.

Hey nova. Dads EF does this aswell. He had it checked out and the sparky told him "it was the drivers door actuator that was ka-put" He never got it fixed and now they don't work at all. I believe it to be common with E series cars.

My tip is "wait for spring weather, its much to cold right now to paint"

Nope spot on. Yeah door trim off for the removal of the door mirror.

Im thinking "just buy some nice wheels in the size you want and get the centres painted in the gold". Heaps of second hand alloy wheels on evil bay would come up a treat with a bit of TLC and some paint.

REALLY REALLY GOOD ADVICE HERE ^^^^^^^ I personally wouldn't go near it with a heat gun, Nickd is on the money with the hair dryer!

Please do the DOHC engine. I want to do one of these myself in the future so the more I learn now. Read this guy's thread. http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/299-xforced-the-build-dohc-turbo/ Forget the turbo tho, bloody thing would go quick enough with out it.

I find the scented ones work better, they must have a special lube? in them that helps removal, plus the smell it gives off just reminds me "id rather be else where"

I jam it full of candel wax when I have to remove one, those big long white jobbies you get in the supermarket, seems to work every time. Not sure why your's is not coming out dizzy, perhaps its been lock tighted in place?