SirkWhyXF

What size front n rear width rims did u go with mate ?

8.5 front & 9.5 rear

Didn't think it was really that critical but since you want to dispute I remeasured...

 

FALCON measures 23.15 x 211.9 mm

5.8 measures 33.8 x 118.35 mm

 

 

Beauty about a dial is I don't need good eyesight....

 

Lol! I was hoping for that

I had a feeling you may have had some verniers.

And hey, without a dial my eye was good enough to realise it was more than 23mm.

It's cold up here... as i'm sure it is out your way SXE357 !

 

Went out to the shed to check...

 

FALCON measures 23 x 212 mm

5.8 measures 34 x 118 mm

 

...on mine, which are genuine.

Reckon you need to check your prescription mate, Definitley 24mm on the falcon badge.

No prob, if none of these slack pricks get back to you with the 5.8 dimensions you could try sending a polite message to one of the guys selling them.

Have had luck in similar situations in the past.

Falcon boot badge is L 212mm x H 24mm.

^^^ that's what I was thinking. 750 & 850. Not 100% positive though.

This is wrong. You tune to what the engine tells you it wants based on use not targeted figures. Doesn't matter what the figure is and TBH most innovate units will shit them selves pretty quick where as the AEM and such last forever.Better off actually getting it tuned on a dyno. 

14.7 is not really a 'magic' number. It's good for lighting up cat converters and under load for an extended period it's really good at burning holes in Pistons.

 

The graph below is a guide that may come in handy for you, but as Sly has pointed out there is no substitute for a good dyno tune. It's just way too dangerous to tune mid to upper speed air fuel mixes on the street.

 

Lean cruise and off idle, yep no problems with that, provided it's a 2 person operation. I strongly advise against road tuning by yourself, unless it's done where there are no other road users. None.

 

I've used the AEM units for years with meth and fuel and they are awesome. I know several people that have the innovate units and they all seem to fail.

 

Just remember AFR is just one piece of the tuning puzzle.

 

Ok. As i stated earlier i don't know squat, but these guys do. I would be listening to them for sure.

sounds like you've been doing your home work mate 

yeah i don't know squat really but from what i was reading into a while back they are a great tool for fine tuning.

i wanted to change out for wide bands on my 5L but need to go full aftermarket ecu as the unichip won't cover it

I've got the EB handbrake cable, and got the EB lower trailing arm bushes to press into the XF arms, but can somebody please tell me what part i need (and where to get it) to adapt the XF brake lines to the EB brakes.

Does look fairly tidy.

Darwin, Cairnes.... Whatever.

Shame your in NZ, there is a tidy XF Ghia sedan on ebay at the moment

Not that I can find??? Got a link Panko?

I think he's in cairns now, maybe...

I only have 1 spare... I kept it cos it was out of a 105k car, yep have the BW40 for it too...

Well you never know when it will come in handy....

Same, i've only got one spare cause its only got 87k on it. Got the BW40 for it too, and will keep the diff as backup when it come out on the near future as its already come in handy once.

Yeah rubber casualty was a shame but I was expecting it to be honest. I'll keep on the look out for som new ones, the one on the drivers door has got about four or five little chips out of the top edge of it so I need one to replace that at some stage too.

Thanks for the tip with the screw on the trim too, I'll give that a go

As for your window I agree with not fucking with it if it ain't necessary, as the old saying goes - if it ain't broke don't fix it. You know you'll just fuck somthing else if you do.

Funny you should say, My drivers window makes a kind of spring unwinding noise that the others don't make. Works smooth as though.

Almost a complete success.

Only two minor casualties. Outer window seal cracked at the rear of the door, reckon a bit of super glue will fix it though.

And the stud/bolt right under neath that area the secures the outer trim to the door pulled out as I over tightened the nut no biggy though, doubt anyone would ever even notice.

Baby oil worked a treat

Window rubbers are a bitch!

Can I use a bit of baby oil to lube it up so it'll slide down, or should I wait till tomorrow and grab some silicon grease from work?

What was the problem?

This was the culprit

Fuck man, if I knew u were doing windows I would have advised u to give the neighbours ear plugs, most I've ever sworn outside work.

Especially when trying not to damage new paint

Haha, would have been the situation if it wasn't for my helpful friendly panel beater neighbour who's help I greatfuly enlisted.

The one of the squarish bits that sit inside the base section wasn't sitting right, had almost popped out and was just stopping it going back down.

All sorted. thanks fellas.

Got a new fuck up now though.

Door trims off - check.

Window out - check.

Problem is after winding the winding mechanism up far enough to slide the window out, I accidentally wound it a bit more and now it's protruding past the top of the door and for some reason doesn't want to wind back down.

Anyone know how to fix that one???

All good, got it

Was just being too gentle

I've got all the fixings off but the trim just doesn't want to lift off the top of the door. Is there somthing I'm missing or some trick to it?

Just don't want to damage a perfect door trim.