SirkWhyXF

Slight dramas. 245 30 front with no issues at all. I thought when I first tried them on on the hoist there was gonna be but have had no rubbing at all on the road. 275 30 on the rear with some minor mods needed. I already had the rear guards rolled but they need some more work had to roll the whole length of the guard an trim of the top edge of the plastic bumper as I chewed up the passenger side tyre pretty good. Still get some rubbing but no more tyre damage. I'll find some pics.

8.5 front & 9.5 rear

Lol! I was hoping for that I had a feeling you may have had some verniers. And hey, without a dial my eye was good enough to realise it was more than 23mm.

Reckon you need to check your prescription mate, Definitley 24mm on the falcon badge.

No prob, if none of these slack pricks get back to you with the 5.8 dimensions you could try sending a polite message to one of the guys selling them. Have had luck in similar situations in the past.

Falcon boot badge is L 212mm x H 24mm.

^^^ that's what I was thinking. 750 & 850. Not 100% positive though.

Ok. As i stated earlier i don't know squat, but these guys do. I would be listening to them for sure.

sounds like you've been doing your home work mate

yeah i don't know squat really but from what i was reading into a while back they are a great tool for fine tuning.

i wanted to change out for wide bands on my 5L but need to go full aftermarket ecu as the unichip won't cover it

I've got the EB handbrake cable, and got the EB lower trailing arm bushes to press into the XF arms, but can somebody please tell me what part i need (and where to get it) to adapt the XF brake lines to the EB brakes.

Does look fairly tidy.

Darwin, Cairnes.... Whatever.

Not that I can find??? Got a link Panko? I think he's in cairns now, maybe...

Same, i've only got one spare cause its only got 87k on it. Got the BW40 for it too, and will keep the diff as backup when it come out on the near future as its already come in handy once.

Yeah rubber casualty was a shame but I was expecting it to be honest. I'll keep on the look out for som new ones, the one on the drivers door has got about four or five little chips out of the top edge of it so I need one to replace that at some stage too. Thanks for the tip with the screw on the trim too, I'll give that a go As for your window I agree with not fucking with it if it ain't necessary, as the old saying goes - if it ain't broke don't fix it. You know you'll just fuck somthing else if you do.

I've got all the fixings off but the trim just doesn't want to lift off the top of the door. Is there somthing I'm missing or some trick to it? Just don't want to damage a perfect door trim.

Funny you should say, My drivers window makes a kind of spring unwinding noise that the others don't make. Works smooth as though. Almost a complete success. Only two minor casualties. Outer window seal cracked at the rear of the door, reckon a bit of super glue will fix it though. And the stud/bolt right under neath that area the secures the outer trim to the door pulled out as I over tightened the nut no biggy though, doubt anyone would ever even notice.

Baby oil worked a treat

Window rubbers are a bitch! Can I use a bit of baby oil to lube it up so it'll slide down, or should I wait till tomorrow and grab some silicon grease from work?

This was the culprit Haha, would have been the situation if it wasn't for my helpful friendly panel beater neighbour who's help I greatfuly enlisted.

The one of the squarish bits that sit inside the base section wasn't sitting right, had almost popped out and was just stopping it going back down.

All sorted. thanks fellas.

Got a new fuck up now though. Door trims off - check. Window out - check. Problem is after winding the winding mechanism up far enough to slide the window out, I accidentally wound it a bit more and now it's protruding past the top of the door and for some reason doesn't want to wind back down. Anyone know how to fix that one???