VDO

I once had this problem. I got the pinstriping bloke to apply wide heavy grade flat black vinyl to the inside face of the bar. Never faded, never peeled and looked great.

Yhe only way is to hook it up.

Not factory though.

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/2710/4281/6774640001_large.jpg?v=0

Hi all. I have an indicator switch which looks the same as XD XE style with the horn and flasher knob on it, but on the end of the wires it has a red plug instead of the grey plug usually found. Also the plug is a bit smaller than the XD XE types. It's still a flat plug with the arc shape, but red and a bit smaller. Sorry I don't have a photo. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I think it's most likely just the block number unfortunately. I have an XD one and it's not the same. The XC XD type has the slightly larger grey plug at the end of the wiring I believe. Cortina ones don't have the wiring attached like this one, they just have the pins straight off the block.

Part number is: 76DA-13A319-AA Hope that helps.

Crossflow or non crossflow..?

S pack rims have 12 holes around the inner rim, like 12 slotters, but the holes are round. Stock rims have 4 slot openings at the edge of the inner rim.

Hmmm... they don't look good. I would be surprised if they're the cause of the stalling though.

Ignition module on the distributor. They will usually fail intermitently until they eventually fail completely. At least check the connections to the module, remove clean and re-attach. Also remove the module and check for any wetness.

Use a hair dryer or a heat gun on lowest setting and heat the residual tape thoroughly and use a PLASTIC spatula/scraper to push them off. Clean up any left over gum with wax and grease remover.

An LTD cluster would have gone straight in and no warning lights.

Any instrument shop will recalibrate your tacho fairly cheaply. It's a very common job, so you can even phone them and ask the price first. At least then you'll know it's accurate.

I've found Autotecnica always made a good quality wheel at a good price. IMO better than Saas and those horrible OBA things.

Yes, simple enough to do. Check the little steel shaft that holds the new gear, the plastic at the bottom tends to split a little at the base and any vigourous action will usually result in it breaking off. If there's a crack, get the soldering iron with a fine tip and very carefully melt over some of the surrounding plastic into the crack to strengthen it up, but be gentle or it will get messed up. Also, just melt it only onto the back part of the plastic holding the pin, or the new gear won't sit properly, and try not to heat up the steel pin or it will lean over.

I don't believe you can get them anywhere Dave. Yes, same gear and odometer arrangement for some early Porsche and Rolls Royce. VDO don't supply them anymore, so even VDO agents are forced to use the hard plastic ones. The only reason VDO used the soft ones in the first place was to make the gear operation quieter, but to be honest the hard plastic ones are fine, in that i've never had a customer complain about gear noise, because it's so minimal even on the bench, that you would be hard pressed to hear it in a moving car. The slightly loose fit of the hard plastic gear for XD XE isn't really a problem in my opinion, as the rotation is only in one direction, so the play never really comes into it. All the gears I have for XF are hard plastic also. All we can do is go with what we have available to us. I could tell you some scary stories about what some odometers are built like from the factory, but that's for another time..

Where are your warning lights..?

The FC LTD cluster you have, won't work in your Falcon. The FC FD LTD and ZJ ZK Fairlanes have different pin configuration in the back (and different circuit board), due to the warning lights being on the side binnacle on the LTD Fairlane, where as on the Falcon, the warning lights are in the cluster around the gauges. Check the LTD cluster and you'll see that the warning light sections are all blanked out, except for the Hi Beam light. Also look at the back and compare the pins to what you have on your S pack cluster and you'll see what I'm talking about. The best and simplest way would be for you to get your original S Pack cluster and have the Tacho re-calibrated. Too bad you're not in Brisbane, I would do it for you for free, but there should be an Instrument shop near you. You can even ask them for a price over the phone, as it's a very common job. Takes about 15 minutes if they have the right equipment. Don't try doing it yourself. You need special equipment or it will be messed up.

They're the same. The "stuffed" one is an XE part number and the one you got from a mate is an XD part number. Both XD and XE senders are the same and have the same parameters, except for EFI cars. The link above from agentkiwi is worthwhile... I would try to clean the original one up first, it usually fixes them.