VDO

Yes, that's French Blue. Gilbarco Blue was slightly lighter. Lasers also came in French Blue.

I found that the easiest method is to cut the trigger feed to the starter motor. I've used one of the old style floor headlight dip switches under the carpet up highish on the floor left of the pedals. It means that no one, including a passenger can see you operating the cut out switch.

Sounds like the regulator is on the way out. They're pretty cheap. Here's a brand new complete alternator cheap. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/XE-XF-3-3L-4-1L-Ford-Bosch-Alternator-2-Year-Warranty-/141511277408?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20f2babb60

So how did you get on Panko..? Hello..? Earth to Panko..?

What model Ford is it..?

Thanks Jack. These instructions however, are for the XF with its "alternating positive" arrangement. It may suit other models, but I would have to check.

The driver's door is the only door you need to access for the central locking part. All locks will respond to this. You'll need to run the two lock trigger wires from the alarm module through the rubber boot from the drivers kick panel area into the door. The rest of the installation of your alarm will still have to be done of course, and it's mostly done under the driver's side dash, so you can easily access power and other areas like indicators, ignition wiring and so on. Cheers.

Hi Panko. Installing a security system and remote locking in your XF Ghia is not simple, it's a bit of a PITA. I will help you out with the remote central locking hookup. The connection will be carried out at the driver's door lock switch area, so remove the door trim and have a look around. There will be lots of wires going to the power window switch and to the central locking switch and the door lock switch along with a couple to the lock actuator motor and the power window motor. The system you'll need to adopt for the XF central locking is what's known as the "alternating positive door lock" system. You'll need 2 x 12 volt relays, each one with all 5 pins, max rating only needs to be around 10 amps. You'll also need some red female spade terminals, preferably unsulated ones. Locate the main 12 volt feed to the door, which will be the YELLOW wire. You'll need to tap from this to supply the 2 relays. Locate the 2 wires from the door lock actuator motor that run to the switch, these will be red with yellow trace (lock) and yellow with blue trace (unlock). You'll be cutting these wires near the place where you'll be locating the two relays. You will be using NEGATIVE trigger from your alarm to each relay for both lock and unlock. The relays should each be marked with terminal numbers 85, 86, 87, 87a and 30. One relay will be dedicated for LOCK and the other relay for UNLOCK. From the YELLOW 12 volt feed wire tap 4 wires from it with spade connectors on the ends and connect these to terminals 87 and 85 on each of the two relays. Choose one relay to be the LOCK relay. Cut the red/yellow (lock) wire that runs from the actuator to the switch, fit 2 spade terminals and connect the one that goes to the switch to terminal 87a, then connect the one that goes to the actuator to terminal 30. Connect the LOCK negative pulse trigger wire from the alarm to terminal 86. The same procedure for the UNLOCK relay: Cut the blue/yellow (unlock) wire that runs from the actuator to the switch, fit 2 spade terminals and connect the one that goes to the switch to terminal 87a, then connect the one that goes to the actuator to terminal 30. Connect the UNLOCK negative pulse trigger wire from the alarm to terminal 86. Secure the relays in a safe area away from moving parts and ensure the terminals aren't touching any metal part of the vehicle. Tidy the wiring using some zip ties. Installation complete. If you get stuck, or have questions, PM me.

Can you tell me the VDO number of the oil sender you're using..?

If you want to send me the two speedos, i can check them out for you... no cost apart from postage each way.

Sorry, my bad on the voltage. I was tired.... groan.

The output level on each puls doesn't matter so much as how many pulses per rotation. Looks like you have 3 pulses there... no good.

Oil gauge will go to full scale when the sender line is open circuit or incorrect impedance. XD/FC oil sender is different to XE/FD oil sender... different ohms range. That cluster pic looks like XE/FD. Do you know which oil sender you have..?

So how did you get on..?

Black - Ground Purple - Positive feed White - Pulse signal Connect 12v positive to the purple. Connect ground to the black. Now connect a multimeter, red to the purple and the black together with the ground. Set multimeter to DC Volts. Very slowly turn the gear and note where you started as you will need to make ONE full rotation and count the pulses as they appear as short pulses of voltage on the multimeter. Turn the gear VERY SLOWLY or you won't see the pulses. It should pulse 8 times in one rotation. Any less than 8 pulses or no pulses means the transducer is definitely faulty. The transducer usually requires around 8 volts but it won't hurt to use 12v just for this test. If you are getting the correct pulses during test, then your transducer is good and you will need to trace and check the wiring and ensure there's a current supply to the transducer.

As I said previously, you need to remove the transducer to test it. Otherwise you're just carrying out "tests" which are not actually relevant or definitive. Remove it, tell me the wire colours and I'll tell you how to test it.

You need to test the speedo transducer (sender) that attaches to the speedo drive on the gearbox. Sounds like that might be the problem. Can you have a look at the three wires that run off the transducer and tell me whay colours they are and I can tell you how to test it. But you'll have to remove the transducer from the box to (bench) test it. Where are you located..?

You can sometimes bring your washer motor back to life by hooking it up directly to the battery with a couple of wires, and give it a couple of taps with the end of a screwdriver or similar. If it comes to life, then run it backwards and forwards a few times by reversing the polarity on the wires.

Pinging is also often a sign of a blown head gasket, due to coolant leaking into the combustion chambers... hence the rise in engine temp.

If your inclined to, you can send me the gauge and I can sort it out for you, free. Thing is, I'm in Queensland and it would probably have to be posted to me and back again. Anyway, the offer's there if you want.

That "prong" is the connector probe for the gauge and is meant to be in place in the back of the gauge in the hole where one is missing. The temp gauge needs both of them to work. What's happened is common. The solder that holds the probe into the gauge's small circuit board has weakened and when the gauge was pulled from the main circuit board, the pin/probe/prong stayed behind. You need to remove the probe fom the board (should just pull off) and resolder it back into the gauge. This will requre removal of the dial and insert the probe and while holding slight pressure to it, heat the solder connection on the surface of the gauge's small circuit board, so that it slips in further when the solder melts. Make sure it's in firmly and also check the opposite probe solder connection on the other side of the same gauge. Note: Note the orientation of the gauge with it's dial before you remove the dial, so you don't put it back on upside down. Very common problem with XD XE gauges. Let me know if you need more help.

Yes, they're all different... not multi fit. There's several different spacers. Escort, Cortina, Falcon sedan, coupe all differ.

It's probably not the switch. Sounds like the fan speed resistor pack is blown... pretty common. It's located in the heater box, 3 wires attached and I think one screw holds it in. Take out the glove box and you will see it.

Alternator warning light circuit should do it. Get it directly from the wire at alternator plug. Alternator warning light gets 12V+ into one side and 12V- the other side so it will light up when the ignition's on and the alternator isn't turning. When the alternator is turning it will then push out + instead of negative. Two positives won't light the lamp, hence the lamp goes out when alternator is turning or the engine is cranking or running. When static, the wire will give negative feed to illuminate the warning lamp, but when the engine's turning it will change to 12 Volt + output. What type/model of car is it..? I should be able to tell you which colour the wire at the alternator is.

Your XF tacho dash cluster can be calibrated for 8 cylinders.