VDO

The 2 bolt starter should fit your 3 bolt housing. The wire to the coil is there to give the coil a boost of current while cranking to help starting. If you have a decent, newer coil, you won't need the wire to it anymore. Don't connect the coil wire to the starter wire,or it will back feed and keep running your starter... leave it off.

What's the wattage of your high beam lights..? Just divide the wattage by 12 and that will give you the amps.

You might as well get the XD console. It's gonna have the storage bin with lid, and the nicer manual shifter boot and they did come in XE's with air conditioning and were the standard console in XE Ghia.

Gauge dropping on braking is also a poor ground issue. The ground for the cluster connects to the body, behind the drivers kick panel. Remove, clean, replace. Better still run an additional ground to the dash from the metal behind the dash to the black wire on the instrument cluster plug.

You probably have poor grounding to the brake lights. When the brake lights come on, they need to steal some ground from the light assembly and it's not enough to serve them all at once, so one or more of your indicators will die, causing the others to flash faster due to the reduced load on the flasher relay. Get into your tail light assebmlies and clean up all the ground connections in the lamp holders and particularly the ground wires going to the car body. Remove and clean the bulbs too (the metal parts).

If you've got one of the broken ones, you can send it to me and I can check out the pin configuration and see what's available.

Are the vacuum ports on the switch marked "V" "M" and "A"..? If so, then they correspond to the V M A marks on the switch in the diagram.

If I remember correctly, you might need to take the vents out from above (just flip the vent and there's a screw on each). Remove the radio: Remove knobs, remove the retaining nuts and fascia plate, undo 2 screws at top left and right holding the bracket, pull out and unplug the radio. Remove the climate control: Remove climate control knobs, remove all securing nuts, remove facia, remove nuts securing the switches to the metal plate, then it should all come apart for easy inspection. Don't mix up the switches and vacuum lines..! PS. Have fun putting the fascia nuts back on... grrrrrrr...!

See my link above.

Here ya go: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FUEL-PUMP-RELAY-SUIT-FALCON-XF-EA-EB-ED-EF-EL-AU-F150-ALL-F-SERIES-GENUINE-/261857166403

Possibly a leaking vacuum switch. This might help: http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/cjcurtis13/media/Emissiondiagram2r.jpgoriginal_zps5arkr3ku.jpeg.html?sort=3&o=0

Just use an FM adapter. They attach in line on your aerial wire and just connect to accessory power, very simple. Then you tune to a specific frequency on the AM radio and you will pick up the FM band which is adjusted on the FM adapter. Quite small and can hide in the glove box very easily. Here's one: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Vintage-Audiovox-FM-Converter-Model-FMC-1C-/261857169026?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cf7e74e82

If you've been having backfiring, that usually indicates the ignition is cutting out and back in again. When the ignition comes back in, that's when you get the backfire. Was it backfiring out the exhaust, or more like popping back into the air cleaner..?

I would say it's probably the gauge. Are your temp and oil gauges working ok..? If not then it could be the earth for the cluster. It's not like an XD sender to cause the reading to jump all over the place. The most common problem with XD gauges is they tend to read high, due to build up inside the sender and the fuel metering orifices in the sender. See this: http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/1972-guide-troubleshooting-fuel-level-display-capacitive-probe/?fromsearch=1 But I still think it's the gauge or possibly the wiring.

Oops... didn't know it was the digital dash.

Wouldn't it be a lot simpler to replace the magnetic gauge movement in the XF with a 0-90 ohms magnetic movement as used in early Corvette, Camaro, Pontiac Firebird, and Humber Super Snipe..?

Just push down on the white plastic outer clip and then pull. It should come right out unless the cable into the speedo head is gummed up, which means you'll have to wriggle and pull a bit harder.

Looking at those tyres, I would check the lower ball joints first.

Look at the plug. If it's a dual beam headlight there will be 3 wires. Single beam has 2 wires. As for parkers, on the TC Cortina I believe they were behind the headlights on a bracket that attached to the headlight plug and hung the park bulb down to shine through the little clear glass opening in the reflector.

Most of the strip has the plastic clips but there's also retainers with nuts in there, so have a good look inside before prying it off. If the plastic clips are old and brittle, they're going to break anyway. Just try to save the moulding, the other stuff you can buy.

There's no difference except for the fuel pipe out of the sender points a different way to the XA XB types. You have to drain the tank to below the fuel sender opening, then remove it. Unless you're going to do an immediate replacement, preferably completely drain the tank so it's not sitting around with a half a tank of fuel exposed to whatever. Most instrumentation shops can repair your original fuel sender, replacing the resistor pack which is usually worn out and usually costs less than an aftermarket sender. Would be a better option than some of the dodgy imported senders being sold, then you'll retain an original part with good quality internals. Install a new "O" ring when refitting and make sure you clean all gunk away from around the sender opening and the clamp, to ensure a good ground connection.

Hi Nath. The radio wiring should come from the main loom behind where the radio mounts. I don't know what the one coming from the console is for. The wires you're looking for are: Black: Neg/Ground. Yellow/black; Accessory power 12v +. Blue/red: Lighting 12v + You should be able to pick up a 12v + constant for your stereo from the clock wiring just below, I think the wire is light green with yellow trace. You can test it to be sure as long as it supplies power when the ignition is off.

The little plastic gear that drives the odometer drum crumbles. Easy enough to replace yourself. You can get them on ebay, around $15. Tutorial: http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/287-diy-odometer-gear-replacement-xe-cluster/

If you need advice along the way, just PM me.