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Jeffb5.8

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Posts posted by Jeffb5.8

  1. Posted

    I’m looking at a 1 of 1 police order and it has 351 toploader. I thought dees only had singles. I know ESP5.8’s had single. Second dee I’ve come across that may have factory toploader. 
     
    the ford letter makes no reference...
     
    Dee needs full resto. Whaddaya reckon it’s worth...


    Any updates did you buy it
    bear351c reacted to this

  3. Posted

    On ‎4‎/‎24‎/‎2019 at 7:11 AM, scottly said:

    I have heard of guys having problems with the water pump spinning to fast, by increasing the coolant flow it does not allow enough time for It to cool when passing through the radiator. 

     

    i think the fix was a bigger water pump pulley maybe a chev one from memory?  Or this could just be a old school thing to do that never actually fixed the problem, I'm only going off what others have done 

     

    Water pumps can be a cause of the overheating, Some of the cheaper ones don't work well just creating cavitation and air bubbles, best fix it to get a electric water pump which controls the flow, we used these on the old 1948 Bentleys for weddings and are the best thing ever.

     

    My old Clevo used to over heat with a cheap water pump, I then upgraded to a QCP or something brand which had the Wheel instead of the fan blade type and that along with Rad clean fixed my issues. could sit in traffic on a 38deg day and while it got warm it never overheated.

     

    gerg reacted to this

  4. Posted

    Check the block hasn't been shaved as well as this will increase the comp way to much for pump gas.

     

    I had a 351 030 (Block deck to 0) and CC Heads and it was a pinging nightmare with unleaded, even 98 was only a little improvement. Change to a wilder cam made a little difference but it then suffered on take off, increased stall and that helped but was still not fun. We estimated it had 11.8:1 comp as on Avgas it was a weapon, you could advance the timing from 0 to about 10degs and the change was awesome

     

    Mate had the engine after me and he replaced the heads with a set of shaved & Ported OC reco heads and back to the original Crow cam and it was a total different beast, no over heating and ran really nice as that was just over 10.3:1 compression

    gerg reacted to this

  5. Posted

    It also helps to have two people when doing the finger over the spark plug hole, Soon as you feel the pressure put a tiny white liquid paper mark the balancer and the when it stops mark it again, TDC will be in the middle, do it a again to confirm. Once up and running mark TDC on the balancer at the pointer.

    Then set the dissy in with the rotor where number one lead will be and the vacuum advance should be pretty much straight giving you almost equal distance of advance and retardation. The movement will allow you to get the two spikey internal gears to line up correctly if you not 1 tooth out.

    If not you will most likley be one tooth out on the bottom gear, lift the inch and rotate it just a little and then slide back in.

     

    My brother who lives in Perth just rang his RACV / NRMA roadside and told them it wouldnt start, when the mech arrived he told him the truth and thet got it fixed and the mech scored a carton of Beer and wrote it down as electrical fault. Win Win.

     

     

  7. Posted

    1) Vacuum resevoir line from HVAC unit to rear christmas tree (manifold vacuum)

    2) HVAC control vac line to hot water valve

    3) W (white) vac line from HVAC control to 107 deg C PVS (top port).

    4) G (green) vac line from 107 deg C PVS (middle port) back to the left hand foot well diaphragm

     

    Borrowed from another (Forum) Post 213 from Paul's 82 XD Ex Pursuit thread on Xfalcon

    gerg and XTREME KARTS XF reacted to this
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