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Outback Jack

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Posts posted by Outback Jack


  1. hi all

    as it says above    i changed my bellhousing and gearbox (t5) and now the clutch engagement has gone from needing to put the pedal to the floor to get it into gear to it being at the top of the pedal( now its almost fully out) for it to dissengage and i want it to be in the middle or closer to the bottom...

    so what do i do???

    sorry if that dosnt make sence    dealing with kids jumping on me as i write this

    thanks

    Hey mate, at the firewall there is a nut for adjusting the cable. Loosen for lower pedal, tighten for higher pedal, can do it by fingers. 5 minute fix.

    Just check where the cable goes onto the arm of the clutch, that that's all seated properly first and it's all good where it joins the pedal arm...

     

    Just to be sure, to be sure, to be sure......

    default_smile.png

     

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  2. Gday folks just got my crossflow block from the machine shop and I had them put the cam bearings in while it was there. When looking it over today I noticed the front bearing had two oil gallery holes in it, one lining up with the hole leading to the crank, the other faces the top of the block and does not line up with anything
    Have they put it in wrong or have I just got a strange bearing?
    I:d have a quick word with the machine shop mate. Probably bearing suits another purpose with 2 oil galley holes.
    No biggy, but I'd check with them first.

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  3. Would they be the bolts for the centre cap or front? Just check the castings in the bolt holes of big end caps.
    ARP new bolts would be cheap insurance on the big ends and mains.

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  4. Ok, its the plug to the back of the coil mate, its the same as an injector plug, clips on , but if the clip that locks it in has come off it can slide off. Check that mate, probably it , the clips fly off sometimes if the wiring is pulled.

    It's on same bit of harness as starter wiring.

     

     

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  5. No probs mate. Others wires to check are connected.... Pink wire that runs across top of throttle body and there's a wire that earths to the block in front of the dizzy.

    Best of luck, I'm finished busting my arse for the day, so just quote me when you reply, and I shall appear as if by magic..

    .

     

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  6. Never fear.... Outback is here!
    :).
    Ok mate, get under the ute. The loom that goes to the starter also has the wiring for the coil, one connector goes to a radio suppressor on the coil, the other goes to the starter motor.
    That's the best place to get to the wiring.
    Probably as you say, just knocked something off.
    Let me know how you go.
    Sorry I was busy ripping out a garden bed and massive bush to get my JBA round the back.

    Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk


  7. Thanks outback jack ,with the pump can't I just put a fuel line on the end of the pick up like you said and just use the standard mechanical fuel pump on the bottom of my block ? Also when the resistance is sorted out will I need to calibrate my gauge ?

    Yeah, fuel line on end of pick up. But a filter sock on the end will stop you sucking up crud in the tank, extra protection.The standard fuel pump will be fine mate.

     

    With the adjustable resistor, all you can do is say...half fill the tank. Tank is 68L, so 34L.

    Then just wire up the sender wire to your guage and see where it sits. If its close to 1/2 you may be OK.

    You don't need to calibrate the guage, the adjustable resistor does it, once you set it up right.

    On the XG tank there are two wires coming out.

    One is power for the fuel pump, the other is the + wire to the fuel guage/sender set up.

    The wire on the right is the sender one.

    If your wondering where earth is, its the tank bolted to the chassis. If you don't have any luck, maybe try put a wire from the sender set up screw on top to earth.

    And just see if the guage works if you do.

     

    So anywhere on that + wire, just put it in line and adjust as necessary.

    You probably want to try something less than the total resistance, so under 200ohm. 180ohm is Full tank, so say around 1/2 is 90ohm.....you just adjust the resistor as necessary to get the guage to read 1/2 tank, rest should take care of itself.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     


  8. I'll make it easy for you.
    I went got my Ford Workshop Manual...

    XG fuel tank sender.
    Empty- 3.5 ohm
    Half Full- 66 ohm+/- 1.4
    Full- 176 ohm +/- 3

    Measurements...
    Empty.... 0mm

    Half Full..... 78mm

    Full.....183mm.


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  9. Hi I have a xg_xh tank in my xb ute ,the sender looks to be a EFI sender with the electric fuel pump removed ,how can I get this sender to be compatible with my original xb gauge? .thanks 

    Hi Grr, it will only be the resistance that differs.

    So grab a multi meter and find the resistance at empty , 1/2 tank and Full.

    (Take the fuel sender out to do this.)

     

    Then hook up to your guage and see if the positions at Empty, 1/2 , Full match up, if not, you will need to get a variable resistor in the fuel senders range and adjust the resistance until it matches.

    Variable resistor goes on the 12v wire from sender that goes to your gauge.

     

    You will also need to put a fuel line on the fuel pick up, where the old EFI pump was, with a filter on the end, then mount your low pressure fuel pump under the back, lower than the tank if possible.

    And don't forget to blank off the return line on the sender set up.

    Fuel out is the left one. Return is the right one.

     

    Hope that helps. default_smile.png

     

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  10. You have an air bypass, so the XF ISC probably has a different level of bypass to the EA and EL series. As the later series only use the ISC to control idle etc.

    Don't worry Panko, I have had the same problem with the j3 on my ute with EL ecu and XH ecu.
    No j3......no rev hang....
    It's like you say, the deceleration just hangs and takes ages to drop.

    With the XF ISC, try setting base idle again. You may find it comes good.

    If not, blanking plate on the ISC and just run the air bypass.

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  11. EB/ED wiring-solenoid is facing motor, the large end towards the fender.

    So holding solenoid up, holes away from you. Left is the outside of throttle plate (free air but filtered), right is inside the throttle plate.( used as air bypass to manifold at idle).

     

     

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  12. I would go back to the EB one , you seemed to have more success with that.
    I now run EL/XH ecu with ED/XG ISC no probs.
    Setting the idle exactly in the order I listed is the only way to get it to play ball.
    That's for a manual around 700-800rpm at idle.
    Start car, disconnect ISC while running.
    RPM should drop to 500-600rpm.
    If too low and stalls turn idle up 1/2 turn and try again.
    It can be a bit of a s*** but once you get it in the sweet spot, you should get an 800-900rpm cold idle , 700-750/800rpm warm idle.
    Hope that helps.


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  13. Hi guys, 

     

    anyone who follows along with my build thread would know that Ive converted the XF to run a J3 chipper EL ECU. 

     

    Since the beginning ive had issues with the ISC valve, which I thought I had sorted. It has recently started giving me issues again, and have fitted a brand new EL ISC valve, which I have mounted remotely and piped back to the engine like the original XF one. 

     

    Even with the new ISC, im still having issues. 

     

    at first i had it piped the wrong way i think, so turned it around. but now, I have major rev hang. it is the one and only thing that is making this conversion s***.

     

    So the ones who have done it, how did you setup the ISC circuit? 

     

     

    Try redoing the idle setting.

    Run the car until warm, unplug the ISC and set the RPM to 550-650rpm.

    Don't rev it or anything while doing this.

    Then plug the ISC back in and it should idle around 700-750rpm.

     

    It's the T.I. j3 that causes the rev hang.

    When you back off the accelerator usually in the ecu is a bit of retard that is added as you decelerate.

    Their advice is always it's the ISC. What a crock. More like sloppy tuning.

     

    I found it also using an MSD with a curve and no ecu input, the rev hang was a bit stupid. So now I let the ECU control timing, no more problem.

     

    I'm running a stock XH ecu with very little rev hang now.

     

    There will be a way to add the retard in deceleration on the j3 but I don't know where.

    Sorry mate.

     

     

     

     

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  14. The odometer gear has probably lost a tooth mate.
    Its an instrument panel out job.
    There's a tutorial I did on replacing the gearsets on an XG ute.

    Could be speedo gear on the transmission....just check it's alright.

    Biggest tip- Only reset your odometer while stationary. Doing it while moving will snap a tooth out of the plastic gear.


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  15. Hey Mate, ok.....
    Wiring .... This is from the deck.....
    Black- Earth
    Orange/Green- left speaker dash negative.
    Orange/ Black - left speaker dash positive.

    Grey/Green- right speaker dash negative.
    Grey/Black- right speaker dash positive.

    Brown to Parklamps. ?

    Blue/ White -12v fused off rad/CIG lighter.

    Green/Yellow- to Smartlock and instruments via interior light

    See pics for more details , match the wire numbers to the pins in the plug diagram below....286d193827a2247ee67de239441ca0a3.jpgbf0595464746ccdd610d241899ebfe9e.jpg

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  16. Thanks Jack. You've put such a lot of time and effort into this project, not just for yourself, but sharing your efforts (both good and bad) to help others. 
    Good onya bro.. 
    Hey Bear :) ,

    I find it interesting. I make mistakes along the way, but I'm human. So s*** happens.
    Get there in the end.
    Gotta remember I'm from a Caveman era where we filed our own points and tuned carbies with an ear and a beer.... He he.

    Definitely programmable is the way to go with Carby or Boosted projects.
    Not really needed if just looking for better spark with an EFI / ECU motor.

    Handy to have though.....for future pursuits in power.....


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  17. Ok, this should be of help to some of you....

     

    MSD module is being used just as a Spark Multiplier.

    Set to ECU on MSD as the Trigger.

    Zero the curve.

    Old Coil - is the Trigger for MSD white wire.

    Old Coil + is the 12v for the small red switched 12v wire for MSD

     

    Put motor into timing mode or cut SPout wire, then set base timing to 10 degrees BTDC.

     

    Reconnect SPout wire to TFI or take out of timing mode.

     

    Done.

     

    Have come to the conclusion after putting in a few timing curves....I am never going to be able to match the fluid dynamics of the EFI system with a static timing curve.

    The two were fighting each other.

     

    So if you just want better Spark and are keeping the EFI with ECU....

    Just buy a normal 6A and a Blaster SS coil and MSD leads.

    Save the extra money.

     

    If you are going carby/ turbo/ charger or NOS, then 6AL2 all the way.

     

    I was triggering direct from the PIP wire to the MSD via White/blue wire and a cut SPout wire, running a curve on MSD and timing locked at dizzy at 40 degrees BTDC.

     

    I was also alerted to the fact that the EFI also uses the PIP signal and tapping into it can degrade/ lower the voltage/square wave to the injectors, causing problems.

     

    Triggering from the ECU is way easier and the performance is pretty good with a mild cam. At least you know the two are matched.

    I bypassed all the ignition wiring at first trying to isolate my miss.

    But the ignition wiring is not the culprit.

    It missed when using completely different wiring.

    So then I knew It was fine to trigger from the ECU.

     

    I'm sure with a MAP sensor on the MSD you could get better results, but the ECU is already doing that, so hooking into it is a no brainer.

     

    Few shots of the MSD set up....

     

    54f5b9d823c6dc0fa9daf98a3f788bc5.jpg

    dd0568296fe44057d549abc37851ed83.jpg

    87494d26e91bc2dbed565f2178c13b0f.jpg

     

    I just got mine hooked up and running properly......

     https://youtu.be/Cg0vDAUw_KA mwahahaha..... It lives!

     

     

    Sounds OK for a Mild 4.0L sohc. default_smile.png

     

     

     

     

     

     

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