Outback Jack

Thats OK nos2 =) , Just gave me a good lead on a new short shifter.....  Cheers! Jack.

I was running my Ute around, did about 200km, was wondering why fuel guage wasn't going down, flicked tank switch, almost half a tank gone in tank 1, had me buggered, other tank was almost still full besides slop over.
 
So I am reading the wrong tank, this straight away told me there was a wiring problem, but I'd checked EVERYTHING in the back near the tanks.... time to head forward.
 
The tank on the passenger side IS the main tank , just the same as a standard Longreach(Tank-switch position 1) , the auxiluary tank (Tank-switch position 2) is on the drivers side.
I thought I was going crazy..... lol
 
It all came down to relay wiring for the tank selector...... on mine, from the factory......it's backwards...... lol
I know its a factory error because the wiring has been loomed with the wires made those lengths.
Takes a little fiddling after ya finish fixing it to loom it up nicely because of the differing lengths... i forgot pics...soz
 
If you check the 2 relays for the tank selector in the drivers side kick panel with the wiring diagrams below , it makes sense.
I actually had to change over 2 wires from each relay to the opposite relay.
 
The two offender are the black/white stripe wire, and the pink wire on the other relay, swap em over, tank reads and feeds from the correct tank.

........Oh and make sure the plug for the back of the tank switch are Red/Yellow on outside and Red on inside.

Here's some pics and wiring diagrams to make it a bit easier mate.........

 
The Outback dual tank wiring schematic.....

The Outback Fuel selector relay section and wiring codes.

PLEASE NOTE...... The wiring for socket is looking at it from the top of the relay, with relay out of the socket!
And these diagrams are the CORRECT way it should be wired.

 

The Relay pin on both relays is the left one. Relay one should be pink (mine was black/white), and Relay 2 should be Black/White(mine was pink).
 
It's easy to tell relay 1 from 2..... relay one has pink and black wires running to the centre pin, on relay 2 it is black.
 
Wiring corrected on Relay 1.......

Wiring corrected on Relay 2........

Here is the wiring for the front of the Outback......

Here is a simplified version of the wiring for the fuel tank set up........

The Brass T piece that is inserted as a common fuel delivery line wasn't doing it for me, that nice valve sitting there.. just doing nothing.... shits me....

Also I want the selector valve to hold the pressure while ute sits around to rest on one pump, not two pumps, and I like you Demmo, think there is some funky siphoning effect happening when the brass T-piece is used.

The connections for the fuel tanks to selector valve and onto the motor are as so........

Here is a couple of pictures to compare, please note return lines go on Top smaller lugs, and fuel supply lines go to the Bottom lugs.......  Aux on Drivers Side (as pictured) Main Tank on Passenger side (as pictured)........

I have also used the "L" shaped adapter filters on the pumps as it lets them get deeper in the slop can, so you get all your fuel.

Check the sender assemblies, the more horizontal of the two pump holders goes in the Aux Tank (Drivers side), the more vertical one goes in the Main Tank (Passenger side).

Ok mate, that should make it piss easy. The valve shuts off the tank not selected on the dash switch, I am reading the correct level for each tank, when switched.

Position 1- Main tank. Position 2 (out) Aux Tank. While you have the tank cover off , put ya ear to the tank while car is running on selected tank and make sure they are switching properly........ then bolt it all back up and it's Beer 'O'Clock...... hehe..... rest tomorrow.....

Please note, the slop over from tank to tank on these models is quite bad when cornering hard, so if ya lose fuel from the Aux to the Main tank, it's normal. I will try and find a way to prevent this later.

Ford On!

Jack.

hehe..... Love it ..... so light, so much power..... lubbly.

Jack.

Outback Jack,

 

What is the best method to find TDC on this engine? I found a few descriptions and am not sure which is the best one to follow?

 

Haf

The guys above have covered it well, also if ya rocker cover is off, on the 4L there is a mark on the cam wheel that lines up with the dizzy side of the head.

Lines up horizontal with the top of the head , to the right as you look at it from front of engine bay. Just make sure you check the pressure on No.1 cylinder as stated above. And mark the dizzy position in liquid paper before ya move anything once at TDC.

Oh, and head gasket can leak water to oil....oil to water, compression to water, or just blow it out the side and lose compression, depends where it blows.

Also , when you put the new intake gasket on it torques from the centre-out, go in a square and work ya way out, will help torque it nice and flat.

While ya got it off, check all ya vacuum lines on the intake manifold too for leaks.

Hope that helps.

Jack.

OK, if ya get stuck, give us a Hoi! Just make sure ya get a new intake gasket for her, or you'll get leaks and it makes em run like shit.

Good luck. Jack.

Heya Mate, Nah ya don't need to take off the intake manifold, but I'll be the first to admit.... it's a bastard to get to...... lol

The dizzy will come out if you take off the spacer under the rotor button, make sure ya mark the dizzy position and have the motor on TDC, and know what ya doin if ya pull it out. Don't replace with cheapo dizzy either.... or you'll get a cheap gear and module and it will just be problems. Go the Bosch Dizzy and coil.

The coil is easiest to get to from underneath or with the dizzy out.

I should be doing mine next weekend, so if ya got time, I'll post pics for ya then.

Jack.