Outback Jack

350 chev drops stright into a sigma easy peasy , never seen a Clevo one. Pics would be sweet.

Jack.

lol , was wondering who picked up that Barra motor in Williams..... think I was stalking it on Gumtree...... Good find, have fun making that Corty crank.

Jack.

Thats just farkin stupid NOS.

Heya NathRTV , mate those things are pretty high as it is. New springs in the front on air bagging it be the only way to get it higher.

I would be checking at a good suspension place to see that when you raise it up you still have enough camber adjustment and that it's not going to turn it into a boat on stilts.

That should give you at least 3" lift. If you have money you can get a custom set of front arms, then you can take it as high as you like.

Check out the Ford Terra ute, that was never a production vehicle but the same concept in lift applies.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/aussiefordadverts/5088862486/in/photostream/

The custom suspension was made by Scott Hart Racing in Geelong.

XG ute workshop manuals are still available online , bought one a few months back.

http://www.computeroutpost.com.au/item/wm25s/

It's the Outback supplimentals that are getting rarer.

jack.

Usually when ya buy a tacho, theres a wiring diagram in the box, should be pretty easy to fit to a 85 Effy.

Jack.

This will be why you couldn't get it to work before you over rid the smartlock.... There was always a short on the cuircut, which either blew it, or stopped it from working.

The interior light and door switches (courtesy light) is an integral part of the smartlock system. When you bypassed the smartlock, you unlocked the motor for starting , but you didn't solve the wiring problem.

+1 for a short.

Jack.

Probably, you tried to drop it straight in mate. The gears are curved on bottom of the dizzy, so as you slide it in, it turns the rotor button about 5cm, but that enough to shit the timing up.

You need to finish up with dizzy lined up exactly the same position it came out at. It is a bit tricky sometimes, new dizzy can sometimes take a few goes to slide in on just the right tooth.

Gad you got it fixed, and oh, I meant dialectric grease for the connector to the dizzy, not taking off the TFI module. If you took the TFI module off the dizzy, even if it is working now, it won't last if there is no dialectric grease between the dizzy body and the TFI module. If theres none, the module will overheat.

Basically, the dizzy body is the heatsink for the TFI module.

Have fun with the new stick, hehe.

Jack.

Nice work man, maybe a 3D printer would be cool for making these carby intake adapters. I like the routered one....... but I'm a caveman, I would of made it with a chisel and lots of swearing ..... lol

Jack.

Its a short, if ya can grab another stalk, bet it's that. The switches go in these after years of abuse, but it may also be in the loom.

To test for a bad earth you use resistance on the mutimeter..... the upside down horseshoe symbol.

Set the multimeter to about 2K and just measure resistances on earths on both sides, should be close. Also you can spin the dial to same one you measure battery voltage with and check the positive wires voltage, this is VERY handy for fault finding in wiring.

Sometimes on the old XF's it was even the lamp globe had a dodgy connection where it joins at back of headlight.

Theres a black wire from back of headlight, with multimeter on "Ohms" (upside down horseshoe shape) , you put one lead on that and one to body of car, if headlight gets brighter you have an earth problem.

Hope that helps, Jack.

So much for taking it easy eh Clevo..... hehe.... always another motor coming from somewhere. Nice work man.

Jack.

Don't go to a suspension place...will cost you a fortune, go to a proper spring works, all they do is reset springs etc. Should be about 60-80 bucks a side for rears.

Jack.

Well, know where to go when I need me 4L tickled now..... nice work Clevo 120Y.

Jack.

Heya mate, find an old crap bonnet, cut the bracket off , flip it and weld it to the other side, should be a hole for the bottom of the strut in engine bay, but there is no top mount on other side of bonnet..

Hope that helps.

Jack.

Stop buying all me XG spares.... lol .

Think it's just the rears have a different handbrake set up on the rear calipers, is also a wind out piston set up on the backs.  Fronts should list up the same.

I could be wrong though... wouldn't be the first time...... lol

jack.

If the earth lead came out on the old vaccuum actuator, then there was a reason for it to be there. Between models could of been a range of changes.

I would hit the wreckers and buy the whole thing out of same model car to be safe. If that actuator wasn't earthed and it should be,  like on the original, could of blown something in the CC ecu.

Xdfairmont79, Mate you can only JUST get a 2L in the engine bay on the stock mounts in a Mark 1, and even then the radiator has to go Forward, so NO way ya getting a 351 in a dato without some major front end work in the bay. Thats the best way to put an 8 in a Mark 2.

You stick a 351 V8 in something that small and hang all the weight over the front wheels, you will have major handling problems, no matter how much suspension work ya do. Weight has to be centrally distributed.

If Kruptor is anything like me.... he drove it every chance he got, lol .

Jack.

That'll keep the bastards Honest Ando..... lol

Alternator should be charging that battery to around 14.4 volts.

It almost sounds like ya don't have it hooked up right. Oh, and on my XG it's a Mitsubishi alternator, and seen as they the same sort of set up, I'd look at that.

Just at a guess, i'd be looking at the regulator, the alternator just spins and produces power, it's the regulator that tells it when to supply that voltage to the battery and when to stop topping up.

If your battery is dying over a day, you have a voltage leak.

Also don't tighten the alternator up too tight , leave ya 10mm flex in the belt or you will kill bearings in alternators.

jack.

Cheers bear. Id love to make it high riding like the rtv utes.

Mate, you won't get it that high without weed or getting new upper and lower arms on the front. My Outbacks ride height is 200mm, that and MAYBE a 2-3" lift kit is as far as the factory arms will take em.

Spring resets are CHEAP man, my local springworks (go to the springworks- my suspension joint charged $320 for what the springworks did for $60 a side).

Just take the leaf springs in and tell em how much higher ya want it.

The front will need to come up as well later and remember, every inch you come up is a little comprimise in handling unless ya tighten her right up.

Jack.

Mines an Outback mate, so it's higher anyway..... The One tonners from memory have an extra leaf. I could fit a politicians head between the top of my rear guard and the tire......... lol .

If the too high mate, find a local spring works, they will drop em down for ya if you like, about $80 a side or so.

Jack.

Nah mate , if anything it's a nice tighter feel, keeps the diff where it's supposed to be... hehe, a good set of gas shocks will finish it off. Have the springs reset , costs about 60-80 bucks a side, if ya suss of the heights aren't even.

I love me Hydratrak LSD diff.... hook up and go.... smokes just for show.....

Jack.

Once you go LSD...... lol ...... Good score on the diff man, hope it's all sorted soon. I have the XG, if ya chuck an extra leaf spring in that set up, you'll take over a tonne just in the back, without looking like a low rider.  I did it to mine, jump up and down on the towbar, hardly moves.

Jack

Yeah, thats ya vacuum hose to the throttle body, make sure it's hooked up properly.

I hope ya marked everything before pulling the dizzy out.... lol . probably something silly though...... always is......

Jack.

I also miss an Escort, green MK1 1972 , 4 door with a 2L I shoehorned into it. Was a mean lil weapon, complete with race cam and a nice 350 holley to feed it all. lol

Chrysler air shocks in the back........ I did it all myself, except the head, that was ex-Wanneroo raceway. Snapped 4 extension housings before I realized it was the idiot who 'balanced' the tailshaft. Died in true Glory..... eating a turboed GTR XU1 off the lights, got to 4th.... no more motor..... lol

Power to weight is where it's at. Nothing scares shit outta ya more than a 700kg car with 250rwhp...... hehe.

Maybe you'll get to build another one , one day Kruptor......

Jack.

Cool shit man, hope she runs like a pearler for ya =) . My new dizzy is on its way soon, so will be doing this maybe next weekend as well.

If ya can get a small tube of Dielectric grease and put it on the connector that joins the harness to the TFI module on the dizzy, keeps moisture out..... they hate moisture.

jack.