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Outback Jack

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Posts posted by Outback Jack


  1. LOL , shit happens Agent, I just deal with it, but yeah it limits me a bit.

    I agree mate, I poured burning hot cooking fat over me right knee (on leg not in a cast) on the weekend, so no more injuries for me would be kinda nice......

     

    I've piss farted around with them enough now, and its my daily, so bite the bullet and pay for em to get done.

     

    Jack.


  2. Heya Agent, yeah thats pretty much what I'm looking at , Perth Brake Parts has all 4 corners for around 200 each remanufactured.

    I have a stuffed back, as well as a cast on my leg for next 4 weeks, so me removing/rekitting/refitting and adjusting them all it is a bit outta the question.... lol

    I mean, they don't leak and I have flushed the whole brake system twice now, two workshops have fiddled with them and not been able to get them to play ball, always seizing and stuff.

    They just shit me, so all new be the best bet, and have it done by brake specialists, so it's all done correctly.

    If I do it , it is pain for me under the ute, and pain for the next week or so, because I don't know when to stop......haha

     

    Jack.


  3. Yeah cheers Wagoon , I was thinking along the same track. I got good discs (dba T2)and pads(bendix Advance), so just standard calipers and maybe some braided brake lines and new wheel bearings ,should get her humming nicely.

    I can't wait to get them fixed, will be nice to be able to have responsive brakes again.

    If it wasn't for this damn cast I would drive it up next week.... lol.

     

    Jack.


  4. Here ya go mate, in me rebuild thread there is a good explanation.

    http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/2502-outback-jacks-xg-outback-ute-build/

     

    The picture of the dizzy is pretty much where the dizzy and module will sit once inserted properly. I did mine a lil while back, chucked in a new module and dizzy.

    Bosch of course. I f ya notice ya have a cheap arse dizzy....... ditch it and get a bosch one.... heaps better.

    Best of luck.

     

    Jack.


  5. Heya Binary,Mate I admire ya havin a good crack. I built some sweet cars when I was a lil younger.

    I'm just coming to the realization that maybe the days of me working on me own cars are over except minor stuff.

    Back is just not up to it any more. Otherwise there would be motors and boxes everywhere..... hehe.

    Mostly under car stuff that gets me.

     

    I love me XG ute man, can't drive it at the moment.... I tried to clutch it with the back of me cast but my foot gets caught under the dash..... lol

    Trust me, ya not missing out without duel fuel tanks....... right royal pain in the arse.....

    Yeah, XG is a bit of a bitza, even if ya take it to a workshop, stress the point its an XG,not a friggin XF... cause the wallys will buy the wrong parts etc.

    Some parts are XF but a lot are unique to the XG.

    I read my manuals like a good novel, but i always know how it ends...... me spending money or having a new project..... hahaha

     

    Have a shit hot weekend mate.

     

    Jack.


  6. Cheers Binary, yeah think I'll just replace the calipers with stock items, and make sure the booster/master cylinder are OK.

    Apparently AU twin pistons or BA twin pistons can be fitted, but requires adapters and flanginging lines to match, blah, blah, blah.

     

    My ute came from SA, so it's full of that fine limestone type dust, so dare say the calipers are flogged out. The mechanics would of had an easier job other wise.

    Rather pay a brake guy to fit recon calipers than pay for hours of ginning around trying to re-kit them. Plus they can set it all up properly and make sure there is no binding/ pressure problems caused by master cylinder or Booster.

     

    Single piston calipers were good enuff for these buses up till AU and always stopped well when set up well with good pads and discs, so good enough for me.

     

    Most things on the ute, I'll have a crack at myself, but brakes..... I've always been wary on them, get it wrong... no stoppy stoppy.

    May run it up to Perth and get Myaree Brakes to check her out and get her schmicko again.

    Doesn't look like I'll be climbing under any cars soon with me busted foot anyway.... lol

     

    Thanks for the reply man.

     

    Jack.


  7. Heya  guys, need some help. Managed to scrape some coin together and looking at getting all my brakes done after me foot heals up.

    Will be changing out all 4 calipers and maybe the brake booster if needed.

     

    I am wondering, was there a factory XF/XG model with twin piston Calipers that will bolt straight up as a slight upgrade on the front? Would be good while I have to do them anyway.

     

    Rears I will will buy new calipers for, but just standards.

    Also, is there someone in SW WA who does brakes AND knows their XG's who wants a job? I want it done properly though, no bullshit artists or rip off pricks.

    Only members or trusted close friends with reputable buisnesses, no mates of mates.... been there done that.

     

    She's only got the stock motor aand stuff, so no need to go silly with racing brakes. Just would like them all to work properly.

    Ute has T2 slotted disks all round and bendix Advance pads on her.

     

    I have taken it to 2 places now and been charged for them to be worse than when I took them in. Drag everytime I reverse or take off at low speed. Maybe dragging while driving. Used to work fine, until the workshop from hell got to them.

    One mechanic did say last time, the right rear wheel wouldn't free spin till he loosened the caliper bolt.... but I dunno what causes that.

     

    I know a place in Myaree that do good work, well they did 20 years ago.... lol ....., but it's 200km away, which I will drive if thats the only option.

     

    I'm a pensioner so can't afford to get shafted on this job again. Already had to fix a dodgy suspension job etc that was done by a workshop.

     

    I could buy the parts from Perth Brake Parts for a decent price and do it in the garage here, but I need a tool for the rear calipers to wind em in and out and I haven't done rears before, so a bit nervous.

    Pretty much I just don't want to stuff it up, because it's my daily.

     

    Cheers fellas.

     

    Jack.


  8. Heya Binary, sorry for the late reply. LOL , cheers mate, cast shits me..... can't even drive me ute..... left foot, just gotta wait 5 weeks, 3 fractures.

     

    I scoured the manual but there is really no good pics, just wiring schematics and mostly pics of the internals of the T5.

     

    But.......... I do know the only wiring on your manual box will be from the transducer for ya speedo etc, which should be the same. Goes forward into the engine bay.

     

    There is one thing you will have to watch, the Neutral gear switch.

    In an auto there is a lil relay that prevents the car from starting in gear. All you do is rip it out and bridge the wires together.

    No wires enter the ute from the hump on a manual, they all go forward and into the engine bay from memory, so ya should be fine.

    Most of the wiring down there on an auto is for gear select lighting etc.

     

    If by some freak of nature I can get under her for a few pics, I will.

     

    Jack.


  9. Cool dizzy, good to hear. Yeah I learnt the hard way on another car, had my dizzy 'regraphed' once in Perth. 2 days later the motor was rooted, chewed all the drive up and spat it into the sump. Was a costly excercise.

     

    Oh, xfute. Make sure ya on TDC, on the compression stroke (rocker arms both on the rock) if it's been out before ya got it.

    Then get ya dizzy, set the dizzy rotor to start in dizzy and as ya drop it in, as the gears will make it spin to finish because they are cut on an angle.

    You also can't do the base timing after without putting the ECU into base timing mode, if you try it will always be out.

     

    Jack.


  10. Veale parts mate, they are usually very good on parts prices and stock quality parts.

    Parts listing for the XG should be exactly the same as XF on ball joints and tie rod ends. Just ask them to check that first though.

    I found the front sway bar bushes are different to XF, bar is different diameter.

     

    About 35 -40 bucks each ball joint is a decent price, Repco are always overpriced, same as Auto One.

    Also take into account I'm old and still living in the 80's ......... lol

    You can try Ford but they don't stock many XG parts these days. Also try super cheap autos if they have someone in there who knows their shit.

    They may be shit sometimes, but big chains have more buying power=cheaper prices.

     

    Jack.


  11. LOL, was more a sign of respect for digging up that old thread Steve.

    No trouble here mate, you always give good advice.

    I was gonna bring up the fan belt thing, but thought it was too obvious and someone would of picked up on that, beats notching chassis rails. hehehe.

    Sorry, me quote thing didn't work.....

     

    Go Ford! Jack.


  12. Arent XF and XG front chassis rails the same? If so it's all in the mounts. Did you use XG bases and the XG mount arms that connect to the motor? or just the bases?

    Pity ya not in WA, I got a spare XG ute out back with easily visible mounts. I will try get some pics but my legs in a cast, so may have to wait till me crutches arrive.

     

    Jack.


  13. Heya Dizzy =) , Just turning a gear over is not the right way to do it, maybe it works, but how well.... and for how long?

     

    http://www.aussiespeedshop.com/product/as0164-ignition-distributor-ea-to-au-ford-conversion/

     

    Thats the dizzy ya need, exxy yes......... even Aussie speed write that doing the conversion is not as easy as replacing the gear or flipping it.

    By the time ya piss fart around with yours and it stuffs up on ya a few times, that price will look better and better.

     

    Jack.


  14. Isn't it a Nissan XFN?

     

    The tripmeter and odometer run off a gear that usually has its teeth stripped off. Replacements are about $10 on ebay and readily available, also easy to swap in!

     

    Keep an eye on that wiring. Damage like that is caused by big current or a fire. Make sure all the fuses etc are correct too.

    Yeah it is SLO247, sorry..... brain fade. Nissan XFN...not TFN....... lol

     

    The Nissan XFN was quite literally a standard XF ute with Nissan badges. Part of the governments failed "Button Plan". Also involved the Toyota Lexcen/Holden Commodore and the Holden Apollo/Toyota Camry.

     

    But anything you need to know for a XFN, would be in a XF manual. Even when the "Nissan XFN" was still new, spare parts came in Ford packaging.

    The XF falcon ute Workshop manual is no longer available anywhere. The XFN Nissan manual is the only workshop manual still available.

     

     

    Binary, you can get the XFN manual here, same place I did..... order direct, it's not listed on Egay.

    http://www.computeroutpost.com.au/list/?keywords=Nissan+ute+XFN

    These guys have pretty much any manual you could want.

     

    Laters, Jack.


  15. Heya Binary. Yeah if ya speedo is working OK, then it's not your drive from the gearbox with the Odometer reading. May be the actual counter, they get jammed up or sieze when someone stuffs the trip meter. Or it's fried.

    A new instrument cluster should be easy to find from the wreckers, just make sure its the same model. eg- GLI is a base model cluster, then you have one with a Tacho which is the mid cluster.

     

    Have I run into an XG........... no......... but I have 2 of the bloody utes here, and all the manuals. lol . One is my baby and the other is parts for my baby.

    Basically the XG is the bastard child of Ford parts, so the basics, like suspension are XF.... BUT.... with minor changes, that only the XG manual will tell you of. The steering box is a newer version of the XF with a bearing top end to make them last longer.

    Same for motor etc etc etc.....

     

    The workshop manuals you want are the Nissan TFN ute manual (rebadged Ford, ford manuals no longer around). Then an XG ute suppliment manual.

    Can buy both on Egay.

    The engine is a hodge podge of bits, so you have to be careful, an EB motor doesnt just bolt in. Some parts are different externally.

    The XG supplimental manual goes into detail on the motor, and is correct.

    XF and XG are two different monsters, even though they look similiar.

     

    When they are running well, an XG ute is a great ute to own.

     

    Jack.


  16. LOL , sorry then dude, I thought ya took it somewhere.....

    I took mine to Automasters once, rang em after I got home and asked if someone could drop past with my sump plug and 6L of penrite, seen as I just drove it home with no oil in it............ they made me come get it......... bastards......

     

    Jack.


  17. Wouldn't be the first time some cock smoker forgot to put the oil in the motor when servicing it. Had it done to me once.... not fun. Make sure you had oil in the first place. Motors will run without oil, but not for long. If it was leaking 6L or blowing it out the back, you would see it.

     

    Best of luck man.

     

    Jack.


  18. Replace the temperature sender and do not use thread tape, just a little gasket goo or something. Mine never gets into the middle of normal when at operating temp.

    Has always sat quite low,but in the operating temp section.

    Also check the wiring to the temperature sender, it's the small one next to the coolant temperature sender for the computer, on the thermostat housing set up.

     

    Jack.

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