Outback Jack

Heya mate, looks OK to me , its the resistance and type of resistor that needs to be the same. The sleeve on the leg of the resistor may be covering a diode that stops power going the wrong way, if you can slide it off and/or there is nothing under there, and it was to stop it contacting other parts of the board.

Sometimes the lettering on the top changes over time, should still be 2 watt.

Double check with Dave..... just to be sure.

Jack.

edit- Crazy beat me.... LOL

Mmmmmm...... I like it, I like it alot....

Onya Stumpers, hope that car flogs em. Best of luck with ya surgery mate, and hopefully after it's all over you'll feel heaps better.

Ask em if ya can have ya airflow bench next to ya bed...... LOL

Jack.

Hey Xtreme , mate just watch that wire sleeve stuff, if the ends or sides are open water gets in and shorts ya connections. I prefer to hand wrap/loom the wiring in electrical tape, just be sure to use a good quality one like Nitto or similiar or it will just come apart.... a bit like buick v6 /commodore motors.....

Nice to have good lights on a dark road.

Jack.

I use hot soapy water and a bannister brush,then Maguires tire gel just to spruce em up. Only problem is the tyre gel smells like Bubblegum and makes me want to eat some.....

Jack.

Usually if ya keep blowing fuses, and it doesn't get better with a bigger fuse there will be a short in the wiring, look for an active wire going to ground somewhere it shouldn't be. I pulled that ooops a few weeks ago....... hehe.

Jack.

Check the relay if your running two sets of spotties through the same one as well, but should already be about 30A. But yeah fuse as said above, start there.

Power(100watts) divided by Voltage(12V) equals Amperage(8.3333333) thats per set, so as Hendrix said bigger fuse.

Correct that formula if its wrong..... been years since I used them learnin bookss........me just watches the radio......

Jack.

Nice work HBWC , can be tricky knowing which bits work in which doors.

Jack.

I never earth to the rollbar even if it is steel, better off running all the earths into one lead and mounting it to the body of the ute.

Too many points where the earth can be broken otherwise. Make sure you use a nice large earth wire, otherwise they get too hot and melt.

Jack.

Arguement against.....

http://fatfist.hubpages.com/hub/Car-Audio-CAPACITORS-Why-They-DONT-Work

Arguement for.....

http://www.caraudiohelp.com/car_audio_capacitors.html

Make up your own minds.

You are right about the recharging of the cap, if not matched properly and with some people thinking "bigger is better" you end up with a cap that takes too long to recharge for a system that only needs a small storage amount, effectively making it work against itself.

Personally, I prefer fitting a bigger Alternator for anything over 2500w and good thick guage power wire is a must.

I've wired up some giant killers in my time, low wattage set ups that have blown away much fancier , more powerful equipment.... just by installing it properly, not scrimping on wiring and matching the speakers to the amps ability properly.

I have made systems with and without caps, depends on the situation, everything that ever left my hands has never come back with a problem.

Thats more than I can say for twats who still use connectors on the wiring instead of soldering everything.

Second batteries are only needed if you don't use good quality deep cycle batteries.

Best of luck with ya car stereo xfish, let me know if ya need a hand planning it out.

Jack.

Voice coils are measured in ohms impedance which is the inductive resistance of a coil and changes with frequency.  

The lower the impedance you run the hotter the amp will run, you will also have higher distortion, the only benefit is more output from the amp if it can handle it.

Capacitors are largely wank factor and are generally used to assist an otherwise inadequate electrical system, if your voltage is dropping too much you need a bigger alternator and ideally a second battery in the boot with a short wire straight to the amp.

You are right Sir, but a capacitor is basically a battery , it stores power. Dragging large amounts of power from a Battery or an Alternator in bursts instead of how they where designed to work, trickle feeding the battery, or supplying a low amperage constant supply to instruments etc is bad for them.

It is a great way to kill your regulator on said alternator or stuff lead batteries.

A Capacitor inline on the amp Power line prevents scavenging for power and stores power for when it's needed. Also reacts fater than any wound up alternator.

Jack.

saves all the puss of installing a second battery and all the extra wiring.

Hey Stumpers, glad ya still plugging along. Keep milking that 4.0 ...... hehehe. Always an interesting read.

Jack.

Yeah but that log was brown and never been a car part stumpers........... and you shouldn't play with it............

The Mad professor is at it again... hehe. Onya Stumpers...anyone can build a fast car with no restrictions.

Jack.

On speakers OHMS is the rating of resistance of the Speaker coil. Single Coil speakers can be hooked up in Parrallel or Series to OTHER speakers.

On Amplifiers it is the rated resistance the amp can handle.... as PH351 stated.

Dual Coil speakers can be wired in series or parrellel to themselves.

I would not drop to 1 OHM unless your Amp is rated to run at 1 OHM, or the magic smoke will escape and it will not work again.

Also be careful with speaker power ratings PMPO or Peak Music Power Output is what it can put out momentarily before it explodes into tiny bits.

The only TRUE power rating for speakers/amps etc  is RMS (root Mean square), everything else is bullshit.

a 1500w PMPO sub is actually about 300-500w RMS.

I get guys telling me all the time about their "1000w amps" that get shitty when you try and explain to them it's really 250w RMS.

Not their fault some stereo gear manufacturers are dodgy pricks.

Also to run subs properly a Capacitor MUST be fitted in line for the amp, so when it draws current to pump the sub, it is not 'choked' by not enough supply.

Me, I just listen to me motor.......

Jack.

Just be careful if it's manual Unfamilia, we used to do remote controlled remote starters for Autos (illegal for manuals), but manuals got to be out of gear or they run away.... LOL

Jack.

I run 2 1/2 pipe on mine, extractors, high flow cat and a muffler. Good flow, 3 would be better with upgrades to motor.

The drone is usually due to what muffler you use, or using no resinator.

I get it on mine with a redback muffler, my friend doesnt with a glass pack Lukey.

Jack.

Damn Aliens.... always nickin stuff from the garage........

Cheers SLO247, they are different, my bad. Sorry JCA.

Jack

No more wet floors for you! hehe. Nice work man, will help a few out.

Jack.

here ya go JCA..... these are out of the XF manual, so hope they are same......

Jack.

Mate, if it's the same Vac controls as Xf, let me know, have workshop manuals here for XF/XG. Think I put up the combos on here before somewhere.

Jack.

Usually if smartlock flashes with Key off, it's armed (Flashes). Turn key to ON, Smartlock light stays ON, fuel pumps should prime, then Smartlock light goes out. If It still flashes in the ON position it has a fault.

Check all relays, fuses under the bonnet near Battery. If it is Smartlock, you can bypass the optical connection or get a J3 chip and disable it.

Let me know if I can help.

Jack.

Quick lil bugger! Motor sounds nice man, well done.

It's a bastard to do,I've done the drivers side door. All i can say is ..Patience young grasshopper..... If ya lose ya shit, you'll never get it out.

Make sure the rods feed into the holders from the same side they came out is my biggest tip, if not it's a PITA.

Jack.