Outback Jack

Is your aircon working? I have had a problem like this. Ended up being high- low idle circuit blown in ecu.

If it is... $50 secondhand ecu.... After you check aircon... You need a code reader.... Will save you heaps of time.

 

Just use and old fire extinguisher........she'll be right. 

I was thinking more plastic coke bottle...... she'll hold..... hehe.
Might need a fire extinguisher though....

Need some more bits for n2o system but will wait for next pay.
Just need fuel pressure guage, teflon paste, fittings and rolls of wire.

Starting to plan out where everything is going..... ordered a new soldering iron..... mine must be 20 years old.
... 60w temp adjustable. Sweet.

Come on Posty!!!

Jack.

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Hey Jack.. am I missing something.. I can't find your Kookabarra thread..? 

Heya Van, Nah the Barra requires so many mods that it will ruin a nice Original Outback. So I canned it + $$$.

 

I can play with NOS on another car and have some fun... relatively cheaply... compared to good turbo set up or supercharger.

 

.. going to N2O a 4L falcon with a 100 shot of nos on a budget. Straight into a factory motor. Using a wet system this is easily achievable.

Sorry for your Barra loss.... thr one that got away..... hehe.

 

I also did research into bottle filling of NOS.

Cryogenic pump system... 2.3K.

 

..... putting the delivery bottle lower and in hot water and freezing the NOS bottle overnight to be filled.....weigh transfer with scales.... freeebbbiiiieeee.....

 

Now just gotta convince BOC to order me a large bottle of n2o.....

..... and take it home...... mwahaha..

Or they will want to fill there for a premium.

 

Jack.

 

 

 

 

 

Wiring for Nos system.... will work out the triggering for RPM window next..... brain fade...... tomorrow....

 

My custom wiring for wet NOS system.......still needs purge line wiring in there.. but is seperate.

 

At a later stage I may need timing retard control for when the nitrous is boosted up, but over 125hp shot.

 

For now can run a 100hp shot of nitrous with no timing change... as mine is 10btdc standard.

Run N2O from 2,500rpm to 5,500rpm.... almost like a cam on tap. Hehe.... nice.

 

Motor is also 8.5 to 1 compression, and I run 95-98 octane unleaded.

So that gives me a nice buffer detonation wise.

 

Requirements were 92 octane, less than 15:1 comp and decent condition motor.

Also the motors that they are talking about 'pulling timing out of'are like 36 degree advanced V8's.

There I can see 2 degrees being taken out every 50hp of NOS there.

 

WOT on the EFI 6 richens the mix AND I'm running a Wet N2O system.

I can't see too many problems to be honest.....

 

Jack.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Explains how the system works....

I hope...

 

 

 

Haha Bear..... thats classic!

Rocket Ind rang me this morning because I cancelled the 'fly by wire' controller.
I will get a refund for it. Nice.
So In return for good service.... I ordered ALL my bits off them.

Coming are...

NOS Bottle guage and 4an adapter...

To keep tabs on pressure , 950psi is where its sweet.

NOS 30psi fuel pressure switch.....

So lowest fuel pressure is 30psi at idle.....will wire to shut whole N2O system if rail pressure drops too low to supply everything... preventing lean out.

MSD 8969 RPM controller.
This thing rocks. ... will work on anything from Harley to a V10 Dodge Viper. This one stops engagement of N2O at wrong rev ranges.

Out of clams now.....and some....

Thats all I need now besides bottle warmer and gas for a safe system so I don't break motor....

Jack.



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No this is on a seperate red sohc xg falcon I have.... unlicensed and for drags and off road use only as nitrous is not allowed at all in WA and QLD on road cars..... that was forum talk...
but I'm pretty sure WA it's not allowed.

You can't even have a system in your car with the gas turned off.
No system... full stop.
Voids Insurance etc etc etc...

I just want to play with NItrous.
I'm low shotting it until I can build a purpose built nitrous motor.

Just balanced well..... nice pistons, rings, mls gasket etc... good valves/springs etc.
Will ask Thom, and the 4L sohc brainstrust to help with that one later.

For now got my list down to a few parts I need to get started.....
- Low fuel pressure cutout switch
- Guage to monitor bottle pressure in boot.

That will do for now.

Will also need later.....
-Bottle heater and cover.
- N2O and Fuel pressure guages under bonnet.
-Fill bottle and run tests on a piece of the old hwy or an airstrip.

Back to part hunting....
Damn it....but even the more expensive kits you need to buy all the extras.

Budget..... what were looking at....

$2000 inc all parts,gas and dyno test.
That can do up to 100hp shot of NOS safely on standard ecu etc.
Mine already has intake and exhaust mods done.
Power @ 75hp starter shot.... maybe 200-225rwhp if lucky at WOT.

Nitrous motor.. Mates rates+parts.
$1500
But that will huff a 150hp+ shot all day long..maybe more at high rpm.... making the xg hopefully around 300rwhp+ at WOT.

So at $3.5K, thats some serious on tap mojo.

Jack

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interested in this.. it would be the cheap option for more power (stealthy if mounted under the manifold also)  would be nice on the gemini 

 

what's the ring gap rule? don't you need wider gaps?

Dont know. ...lol

usualy around 20thou gap

Dont know.... lol

Plug gap goes to.30-.35

I do know timing is retarded 2 degrees for every 50hp of nos.

Colder set of plugs may be needed and will take a bit of testing to get right.

 

Right ....after a lot of research and looking around had to grab an MSD 8969 ... RPM activated switch.

Cost me $260... but cheap insurance against badly timed N2O bursts.

 

Means I can floor it and as long as Im in my preset rpm 3000-5500... I can operate it by manual switch or WOT micro switch on throttle body.

Just creates fail safes against detonation thru leaning etc.

Makes using it more controlled and fun.

 

Jets will have to be revised..... looks like its more likely to be around

N2O.... 38 Fuel......28.

Will keep looking at it till I have it spot on.

 

Time for sleep..... been reading ALL day... hehe

 

Jack.

 

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Hey guys... After looking at a few options to satisfy my mod bug...

Decided to try N2O.....

 

Have purchased these....

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/192245872217 Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/142306329222

 

That should be a complete wet 75-125hp NOS 10lb bottle set up and an NX purge valve....

Oh.... and got my NOS kit from rocket ind for $650...not price on a that link. I got last one.

 

I wanted power but when I want it.

 

Nitrous Oxide is the perfect solution.

If only triggered at WOT.... and over 2500rpm... with enough high octane 98 juice.....she's apples.

Being a 'wet' system means in injects a ratio of fuel and N2O at one point decided by changable jets.

 

Now I went a V8 kit from Rocket Ind.

the reason being.... I want to start at 75hp kick and get a safe tune there.

I can go to over 125hp shot... but motor would need mods..

 

The kit I have is made for a 43psi V8 system..... but there is a chart to help work out nitrous to fuel ratios.

250kpa=36psi

At 40psi jets are....

Nos... 38 Fuel.....26-28

@ 36 psi would be too rich.

So I reduce jetting to suit psi and get

Nos.... 36 Fuel.....24

Should be spot on and both jet sizes are the smallest size pairing.

Be good for 75hp easy.

Then I'll play with it and see where we go from there.

75hp is probably 1/2 what it has any how.... bit less but hey..... more later.

 

I don't need a chip.... advanced timing... bad for NOS.... in fact... may have to drop 2 degrees timing to get it to go great at 75hp and 5 degrees at 100hp shot.

 

So pretty much if I can get this all in and filled... we can have some fun...

 

Im going to trigger the NOS at WOT ( wide open throttle ) via a micro switch and run thru an arming switch in cab.... bottle mounted in the rear somewhere.... few ideas...

 

New to NOS so will be learning as I go...... also got to find somewhere that fills NOS bottles......hahaha.

 

Jack.

 

 

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Nice work gerg. Pretty much how I do mine.

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The rubber on the outer of ya window is probably rooted.... usually the cause.

Take door trim off... park next to someone spraying door with hose.... bingo! You'll see water running down the window.. past the seal into your door.

 

Or if you mean dash speaker follow VBs advice above ^^^^^

 

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Lol. Trippa.
Sounds like a slipping trans belt.
Pity Im not closer with code reader.... can diagnose auto box with it... see if it throws up a code.

Bloody cars I tell ya! Hehe.
I got no spare room to save you from the war office...... only flowers, dinner and dancing can do that..... hahaha.

Best of luck mate.
Ol auto is in blue xg ute.... I never tried it ( never ran) . It is 50/50 if its ok still... but ute had blown head... so might be fine.
Yours if ya get stuck.

Jack.

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Will test her tomorrow.
Cheers fellas.
I also saw some smaller style hotrod booster and master cylinder set up for about $285.
New XG about $320.
Kits for rebuilds $110
But those press tools... for the seals.... where did you procure them JCA?
Please Sir.

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Cheers mate.
I'll get onto it.


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Heya Demmo.

I got a spare auto but it's xg..... and Im a bit far away.

 

Should be plenty autos around mate at the wreckers. Some e series autos will fit.

Tell me what its doing.... might just need a decent service on it.

 

Jack.

 

 

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Just a question. My Utes booster makes an asthmatic weeze when I push down on the brakes.
Any idea what causes this?
Is booster on way out?
Can hear when stationary.
Strange.

Jack.

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It’s a return line system.. the feed runs into the fuel tank, above the tank. ( where you pump fuel when you fill up there is a large hose between the tank and your rear licence plate.. the return hose plumbs into that)

Isn't that hose the breather hose for the fuel tank?
If so it will over pressurize the fuel tank...
You got no pics so I can't be sure but be careful or you'll have fuel pissing out everywhere from a pressurized tank.

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Is that smart to do?

I know its same same but your not regulating pressure at the injector.

 

Im not rocket scientist but pressure loss at the injectors will not be rectified until its picked up at the pump end..... too much room for error for me.

 

Thats why its always in the fuel rail.

 Never listen to the chev badge.... it is Evil I tells ya! Eeevvvviiiillllll......

 

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I'm using a car cover but inside a garage.
Outside in rain the moisture will get to it.....and rust anything exposed..... like tarping a car.

Personally... if outside better to grab 4 posts, 4 bags of crete, 4 rails and grab some old tin.... its a roof... you will never see it.
Then if you want it protected ... shade cloth 3 sides. Done.

You need airflow around the car and any trapped moisture is the enemy.

Jack.

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We are sexual perverts wasp

Thats the one Chestnut me ol son.

I just bought myself a wasp brand pitman arm then realised 2 things. 1) my puller is too small so I’ve bought another one 2) the kit they sell with ball joints also includes a pitman arm so I’ll end up with a spare!

I haven't done mine yet... need to soak it for a few weeks then do it.
I pulled all my wasp gear out of ute and to be honest. .. maybe only one lower ball joint on passenger side was a bit dick. Rest I'll keep as spares.
Utes been on some rough roads so they can't be too bad.

Jack.

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what is a good brand of normal ball joints

Try WASP mate. This is my second set. Last set been in 6-7 years.
Thats best available here standard.
Moog would be the best stockers but bit more exxy.

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Awesome! Cheers.

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Heya JCA.
While she is at it... can she put up some panelvan porn for us... l like the blue beast.... hehe.

I also may also need to rebuild my booster... but different model... later.
I take it rebuilding is straight forward but as always its all in the order and method.???
I'll read the tute anyway.

Jack.



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Ebay have Brake booster diaphram kits Im sure. Seen Xg ones.


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Mmmmm..... globalwest upper and lower arms.....
Drool..... one day.... oh one day they will be mine...

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