Outback Jack

Took ute for an 80km drive and it's running better but problem was WBO2 sensor setting. Now set NBsim (narrowband simulator) for ecu with a 0-1V range instead of default 0-5V. Seems to run good at 10BTDC but still not sure that's where it should be set. Anyone, anyone, anyone.... ???. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

I'm not sure what's going on with my ute. For an experiment I pulled the j3 chip and just ran the EL XR6 ecu. Tried it with stock 10BTDC of XG and ran good. Tried with 0 degrees or TDC of EL and was a lil more hesitant and ran a lil warmer, but still OK. Have set back to 10BTDC and going to take it for a longer drive and see how it goes. I'm trying to see if it will go into Lean cruise mode but so far not much luck. Trial and error at this point. AFRs are staying in the 14's at cruise, so not leaning out or running rich. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

EA run TFI dizzy, EL run TFI dizzy, so that's ok. EA ecu will want base timing of 10BTDC regardless of motor, but I'm not familiar with AU motor. I take it they only have a 0 degree or TDC timing mark. In that case, get a piece of string, go around the crank. Take string and measure length. Then divide Length by 36 This will give you the distance of ten degrees of timing. Put white mark that distance to right of original timing mark on balancer and when in base timing mode, line the new mark on balancer with original TDC marker and you will be at 10BTDC. I have a digital timing light which is even easier. Increase timing on light to 10 degrees advanced and mark spot on the motor, then return light to 0 and align new mark with original crank marker.Done. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Hi Guys Was looking for an answer to a question about the above upgrade. I have an XG manual Outback running a 3DAC ED ecu which I want to upgrade to a 6TAC EL XR6 manual ecu. Now I know I might have to tweak the fuel pressure a bit to suit the xr6 tune but that should be it as I have a mild cam that should suit the tune. Apparently its just plug and play. The question I have is EA-ED and XG have 10 degrees BTDC base timing and as far as I know EL have base timing at 0 degrees or TDC. So do I change the timing on my motor to match ecu or does it stay the same? Also, if I have locked timing at 30 degrees BTDC, do I have to change that setting? Is there anything else to change or watch out for? I am rocking a clutch fan and log manifold, so should be no need for pin out changes/wires for thermos or bbm. Cheers fellas, Outback Jack. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Just tested Orange/Black wire at ECU. 5V, so PIN 26 is still the +5V REF pin on an EL ecu, even though its not listed on the PIN OUTS for EL. Done. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Ok, my ute is now running an EL XR6 ecu and stage 2 j3 chip tune, going well. I am currently installing Tech Edge Wideband O2 and Controller. Just checking for VREF voltage on the EL ecu pinouts. On EB/ED it is PIN 26- +5V REF but on EL PIN is listed as not in use. This +5V REF is used by the MAP sensor and the TPS, so it is needed. Will let you know how I go. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Go the seats at that price it's good. 3 angle cut on the valve seats is worth the money, makes for a much better flow in and out of the chamber. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Hey Guys, I have put an EL ecu into my XG and everything seems fine except it is idling at about 1100rpm, sometimes it will drop to 700-750rpm but if you stab the throttle it settles at 1100rpm again. I ran my code reader on it and are getting codes 121-Throttle Position Sensor out of Calibration range. Also throwing 411/412- Idle Speed Control Low/High idle fail. It seems to me I need to calibrate the TPS for the ecu, but unsure how and think this maybe causing the low/high ISC fault. I am going to check for any vaccum leaks, idle is quite nice and I have adjusted idle already. Going to try a few things, but if anyone has a fix for this, please let me know. Will be handy knowledge to have on site too. Cheers Fellas. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Just emailed Jason Bolger from t.i. performance and asked if when the EL ecu is j3 chipped will it throw a 511 code? Its completely Normal with a j3 chip fitted. Happy Days! Thought I'd fried the ECU. Phew! Problem solved. Oh and BIG thanks to Jason from t.i. performance for his awesome service, he has helped me through by answering any questions I had, and even when it wasn't his j3 chip at fault, it was ECU related he still offered advice and support. That's earns his sticker a place on my ute. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

That's the big question Ando. I think I might pop the ED ecu back in and lower the fuel pressure, at least I know it's safe, then I can grab another EL ecu when I go see my mate and test it with my code reader before purchasing. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

OK, after going over the whole ute, I found the problem. I was wondering why the EL XR6 ecu wouldn't go into diagnostic mode properly or raise the idle when I bridged the pins for timing. When I was cleaning the EL XR6 ecu up, I used a brass wire brush to clean the pins in the top of the ecu. Now I didn't notice at the time as the wires are tiny, but some had broken off the brush and got stuck in the top around the pins, making little bridges between some pins. Must of been the TPS input and something else. After spending all day on it, was the last thing I checked after putting the ED ecu in to bridge connections and check the timing. That worked OK, so I knew something was up. I was about to put the EL ecu back in, when I saw what I thought was a few lil hairs or something in the connector. Turns out it was the brass wires that had snapped off and got lodged in there. Few were touching between 2 pins. I cleaned it all out, plugged the ECU in..... Straight to 700rpm idle. Put code reader on, flicked switch to ON, revs rise as they should. Bridge the connectors to do base timing, works perfect. DOH! I may not have escaped unscathed though....... I ran the Code reader in KOEO and most codes I got were for things the XG doesn't have- Cooling fan fault codes 791,792,777,778. Serial link to dash fault 783 BBM fault 795 But the one that is worrying me is. 511-Internal EEC module fault- Replace. The ute idles fine, seems to drive OK. It could be a fault it had before I got it or maybe I have damaged it. I tried to clear the codes, but it keeps coming up. So I may be up for a new ECU... Lesson learnt, no brass wire brushes near electronics... Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Yeah, not sure Gerg. The TPS in XH and XG should be the same, but his was an XH XR6 and not sure if they run a BBM or not. Jason at t.i. performance seems to think it's a vaccum leak. I will check the PCV valve this morning, it's the only thing I haven't checked. It's not the j3 chip, I have the problem on EL ecu with no chip inserted. It's just strange, I even put my hand in the throttle body to restrict airflow and it still idled at 1000-1100rpm. It's like the ECU is making the high idle thru the ISC, like it can't find a reference point so it idles up. I will find the problem today. If it's not a vaccum leak, then it's got to be a TPS problem which is either it not being able to calibrate to the TPS because of no goose test/calibration or TPS values differ on actual TPS. Just a matter of checking all possibilities. Last thing, that I'm hoping it's not, is a dud ECU. That would suck, cause it cost me $105 and had to come from QLD. But it is a possibility. Just having a Cuppa, then back at it... Again.... Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Nah mate, I got rid of the locked timing and went back to ecu control when I had the ED ecu in. You know its funny you mentioned an XH TPS might be needed, because the guy who sold me the EL XR6 ecu had it in an XH XR6, and reakoned it ran great. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Hey Thom, I thought I would start with the small stuff and work up. I tried to get it to idle lower with j3 chip in or without. No difference. So I then stripped everything off the intake manifold, checked/replaced every hose. Checked everywhere for leaks. Tested and fitted an air charge sensor, cleaned the throttle body and the ISC. Changed the TPS and ISC. Checked all the wiring and Earths. Reassembled and torqued to spec. Set the base idle to 500-550 with idle speed controller disconnected. Tried EL ecu alone, then EL ecu with j3. Multiple times. It's doing exactly the same as it was in the first place. Idling at 1000-1100rpm. No change. I have been on it all day and got nowhere. Will have another try tomorrow and if no go, lower the fuel pressure and put the ED ecu back in. So much for plug and play EL ecu.... Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

There's no dumb questions Gerg. It is in a 6TAC ecu casing, which should be an EL XR6 ecu. Even if it didn't work on the ecu if it was auto, with the j3 the tune over rides the ecu and the tune is manual 5spd. So I'm kind of lost....it maybe a fault in the ecu or as Thom said TPS related. If I could just get it to goose the throttle, I'm sure the ecu could get the values right. I bridged the pins on the left of the diagnostic port to try and put it in base timing mode, and it's not having a bar of it. That could be because the idle is too high/ no TPS calibration or there's a fault with the ECU. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Cheers@Thom , It's giving me the shits. Lol. I had the EL XR6 ecu on her, fuel pressure is adjusted to 300kpa at WOT. I've tried doing the base timing a dozen times. I will just keep fault finding, seems to be the same high idle issue with j3 chip in or out. I had the tune done specifically for an XG running an EL ecu and a LOG manifold. I have a spare TPS here, to try but I might have to look into this problem a bit more. Going to look for leaks and stuff, if none, will put ED ecu back in and see if she idles fine. It's kind of doing my head in, and I burnt my forearms from continually trying to adjust the base idle. Having a break now, before I bend something.... Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

I did get it to idle at around 780rpm for awhile but put the ecu into diagnostic mode with code reader and after turning it off and restarting the ute out of diagnostic mode, it returns to idle at 1000-1100rpm. Can't seem to perform a goose test and if I jump the two left pins to get into base timing mode it doesn't seem to work. Back at it again..... Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Idle Speed Controller tested- 10ohm resistance. Power with key 'ON' to Idle Speed Controller tested- 12V. So ISC checks out OK and ECU is supplying power to it. Next.... Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Good stuff Wokko, glad it came good for you. Base timing is 10 degrees BTDC. So you may have it a bit retarded. You should notice a difference again from changing that. So happy for ya mate . I love it when a plan comes together! Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Hey Jason, EL XR6 manual ecu on the way. 6TAC I just ordered one of your Stage 2 j3 chips to suit and provided all the details of my ride. One thing I'm not clear on. Do I set the base timing to 0 degrees/TDC as per the EL XR6 ecu going into the XG or set it to 10BTDC as per normal ED/XG ecu when the j3 is installed? Thanks in Advance. Jason.

How you going with it@wokko , success yet? Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Try this oil mate. It lasts ages and is fully synthetic, been running it a couple of years now. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Just check your not 180 degrees out mate, its easy to accidently set it up on the exhaust stroke. I would pop the rocker cover off, make sure No1 is on compression stroke and both rockers should be up. If its on exhaust stroke the exhaust rocker on the left will be down. Then check your dizzy is the right spot and see if the timing marks line up, bet they don't. I bet the proper timing mark on the balancer will be pointing at about 5minutes past 12. Which is where top dead centre is on an XG. Actually, I think I know what they have done, the front pulley is XG as it runs V belts not serpentine belts like EF/EL. Try this before you do anything, and I bet it works. Put the timing with the timing light at 12 o'clock which is roughly on an XG where 10 degrees advanced is. Just make sure you look on that lower pulley for a slot that is on the inside edge, that's where an XG timing mark on the balancer is. maybe not the one they marked white. I'm on the right track now. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

No problem mate. I was in the garage tinkering anyway. As long as you got the dizzy in right at TDC and everything lines up, then do the timing with it in diagnostic mode to 10 degrees BTDC or 15mm to the left as you look at your timing mark,it should run. Then after you take it out of diagnostic mode the ECU will do the rest. Just don't forget to hook up that PCV valve on the front top of the rocker cover to the throttle body hose. It's bugging me. OCD. Lol. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

No probs mate. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk