Outback Jack

Nice write up VDO, worth it's weight in gold, should be a sticky for central locking. Good luck Panko Jack.

The ignition barrel , key and smartlock are matched mate, so maybe try the one that is originally for that motor and ECU, that should work, maybe the last person didn't know they have a resistor in the key that completes a circuit with thw octo-coupler which reads it. Jack.

Sorry mate smartlock actually started from 10/1992 , and your motor is either very late EB, EB2 or ED (which includes XG motors) 91AA is an engine prefix that also matches up to the Prefix for the ECU. That box is not the smartlock unless they moved it from behind the passenger side speaker, which would be a pain in the arse. Your Smartlock is locking you out, it is looking for 3 signals, one from the ECU, one from the Key-via the ignition barrels Octo-coupling and another one from somewhere else i forget, as long as it gets 2 of those the smartlock will let it start. Check all your wiring and fuses, just sounds like something is loose, could even be an ignition wire. Smartlock modules can be bypassed by using a J3 chip or an octo coupling trick which i won't share here. Jack.

hey mate, it's flashing a Code 7, which I cn't find in me smartlock section of manual, and ya motor etc might be a later model like 94-95 because 93 motors don't run smartlock on XG's. The smartlock box is actually on the passenger side. Check your interior light is working, and also, as stupid as it sounds.... check your wiper motor fuse. I bet 50 ya knocked something off the fuse box or something when ya installed the handbrake cable. Check all ya wiring around that area. Hope that helps. Jack.

Might be ya fuel pump relay Polson, other wise bank 1 goes to PIN 58 on the ECU and bank 2 goes to PIN 59 on the ECU, but they both trigger from the Fuel pump relay. Fuel pump relay resistance should be around 60 ohm. Injectors individual 16.2 ohm Bank 1 or 2 tested as a bank 5.4 ohm(3 injectors in Parallel) Also check K.O.E.O voltage should be 12V for injectors thats measured at Pin 58 and Pin 59, Vpower relay is pin 57. Can only be a relay, wiring harness or ECU. Jack.

Howlin 6 Stumper, hope she goes out and kicks arse. Jack.

Spot on Valve, I wash my ute, clean all the paint, rinse her down, then first thing I do is Clay bar with a detailer spray, get all the contaminants out, only THEN are you ready to do anything else. I only use micro fibre clothes and seperate ones for compound, polish or wax. Quick detailer spray is awesome after it's all done, for a quick spruce up before a drive. I can't afford really pro polishes and stuff but I think the Maguires stuff is pretty decent in the Gold and Ultimate range. Stone chips are a bastard, I have a bonnet guard but am thinking of going to a custom made plexiglass one mounted on the roo bar to keep the rocks away from the roof, windscreen area. My bonnet guard has copped a hiding, without it out here, it be a sorry looking ute. Jack.

Love reading ya threads man, always something interesting. Hope everything is well for ya mate. Jack.

Lmao, that sucks. Sure you'll have her ready and racing for the 3rd mate. Best of luck to you and the Wombat.

Soon as I can afford a decent head etc, or at least one not as ugly as the one on me neck.... I'll be down to get you to start on a good flowed set up and headers for me 4L stumpers. Be either an Xr6 set up in SOHC, or maybe if I get nuts, might be a Barra twinny. Take care mate and best of luck with ya new venture, should be Proud. Jack.

Oi ya degenerate Albany motor destroyer! LOL . Are you doing well mate? Hope the surgery has gone well and we see ya back here real soon mate. Take care Stumpers. Jack.

No Wukkas mate, always a pleasure. Hopefully you can replace the motor seperate from the wiper washer bottle if thats OK. Have a good weekend. Jack.

The wiper motor should be a 'preslite' Ando. It is negative lift for OFF and connects for ON mate, checked the schematic for ya.Grey/Black is the Negative and Violet/Yellow is positive. Should be 13.5V @ 2.5A there. Jack.

I'm going to be having a look at mine next week as well Ando, so if I find anything, I'll post up the results. Bloody frustrating isn't it? LOL Jack.

Nice work gerg, you'd like my 3.45's then, 1st is for rock crawling or scaring birds.......

It's funny you say that Ando, I have a new booster and master cylinder and was experiencing the same. All my calipers are recond and new discs/pads. The pedal is quite firm and if you want to stop in a hurry it doesn't give you a confident brake feel. Works, but a lil skitish. I still have to check for vacuum leaks on the intake manifold from the booster forward. Thats all I can think of, besides a re-bleed on mine. Booster works like it should, pump up the pedal with ignition off, start car and it should drop. Kinda got me stumped. Jack.

They are the same calipers on the front mate between both models. (rears I think are different). Get yaself a set of bleed nipple spanners from repco, well worth it. Jack.

+1 with Hendrix, It could also be the wire getting caught in the door and earthing out, happens a lot, definately not the speaker though. When you say 'tweeter/subs' do you mean a split system with a tweeter and a mid range speaker? (usually small tweeter and about 4-5" midrange speaker). If so check the wiring at your crossover after, can sometimes happen when the Hi-pass or low pass filter fails and the tweeter gets bass. Jack.

Almost there gerg. Usually us frying on this side of the country. lol. Hope it's all good now. Jack.

Was a guy on Gumtree doing them awhile back in Perth at pretty reasonble prices too, check that out mate. Jack.

Hey Stumpers =) , Good to see ya fighting fit mate. Was wondering how ya was going under the knife. Wives can be hard on blokes these days..... Castration for spending too much time in the shed with the cars.... Geebus.....Hard woman. This man is truely dedicated to his cars. Jack.

Handy write up mate, easy to understand and quite easy for people to follow and get done at home in an arvo. Nice work. Jack.

Amazing what some people will do to cover up a wood powered Cortina........

There are actually spacers that go on the falcons door panels from factory that sit out and move the speaker away from the window when inside the door, were an optional extra on GLi's. GLi speakers are in the dash. I have a set here in the spare outback ute, should be easy to find at the wreckers. Those spacers you made look quite neat mate, the factory ones are not carpeted. Jack.

It's hard to solder those lil connectors on and make them stay, usually they will rebreak everytime you tighten the dial back down anyway. Wreckers...... 20-30 bucks. Done. If it still does it, there is a short in the wiring. And.... have you considered you might be using the wrong temp sender or the fault is intermittant in that? Also make sure you don't use thread tape on the sender , they use the motor as earth. I'm pretty much out of ideas after that mate. Jack.