Outback Jack

Nice work Ando, on the calenders and the Mad Crossy. haha I bet you here that crossy revving in ya sleep................. Jack.

+1 with the Lord, If you can try and steer clear of the fuelmiser stuff, go genuine Bosch on any of the ignition bits like coil, dizzy, dizzy cap or rotor button. Ebay is your friend. Jack.

Would be air in the fuel rail working its way out, just see how ya go, if it does it again. Also you must hae a J3 chip or similiar in that ute as It's a Smartlock set up in XH, and without the interior light globe in, the circuit is not complete and the ute should not start, either that or they tricked the Octo coupling in the Ignition barrel. There should be a listings of models they suit from a good supplier. Try the Bosch super4's , they run real nice in my XG. Best of Luck. Jack.

Bloody nice work Judgetread I would be whacking a patent on that shit quick smart, or at least a copy right . I always hated soldering SMD's even with paste they are a pain in the arse. Looking forward to your results, but from ya schematic and tests, looks to be a goer. Best of Luck. Jack.

Loving the thread Ando, very informative. keep up the great work. Jack.

That inner front tyre wear is an X series trademark mate. Have that on mine too. Don't think i've seen an XD, XE, XF, XG that doesn't do it without a correction kit on it. Check it's not the idler arm, could be play on the other side. No idea on why the steering wheel is out after changing just tyres. Jack.

Not a bad price for all the casts etc, could make ya own twin cam heads with no design work. Jack.

Mwahahahaha, that will be a weapon. Light as all hell and way more poke than a mini cooper, should be fun. I messed around with a few rotarys, yeah they need revs to make power, change gears around 6-7K, most I drove were bridge ported or peripheral ported 13B's. Know it's on song at 13-14K, sound like a Banshee. lol They were always better in light cars as the motors didn't have enough torque for heavier bodies without working their ring out. 1.3L that uses as much fuel as a V8. Jack.

It might take a lil time to narrow down Ando , can be a pain in the arse, but be good to know where it happened. Fans use a fair bit of power so could be main positive for that shorting somewhere. Happy hunting. Jack.

Nope Ando sometimes they don't. In theory all fuses should protect but in reality sometimes they fail badly. Just had a dead short on a set of spotties, Positive and Negative connected at connector behind spotties, melted the globe leg and melted the fuse just like that. So badly melted the fuse couldn,t even be removed. Hope ya find ya short. Jack.

Thats the shizzle, good stuff and ya don't need a lot either, let the orbital do the work and glide it. Test patch somewhere first just to make sure the chalky paint comes good.

heya Ando, If ya melting stuff its a short in the fuse panel at back or the fan motor or wiring to it is shorting somewhere. Jack.

HBWC, your a legend. Most X series suffer from voltage drop on demand in the electrical system. The starter is a perfect example. That relay set up allows full power to the motor of ya power windows, not unlike a starter relay. Also be careful when changing bailey channels, the clark rubber one is too shallow and ends up 'clamping' on the glass causing window motors to struggle or fail. Me mate Ash found that out the other day. Poor bastard. Jack.

Heya Bear, if the top layer was just oxidised then the paint that didn't come off should be ok, just check the condition of it, maybe a pic if ya can get a good close one? Cows milk doesn't sound good. lol. I have heard of guys putting wax on and leaving it to let it soak into bad paint and bring it up better. I buy the Meguires clay bar/compound pack, has good wash, clay bar and clay bar detailer spray (used when clay barrring), compound, polish and wax. About Fiddy bucks and comes with micro fibre cloth. is a good decent kit for bringing ya rides paint back. Wash with gold series wash. Then a Clay bar will get all ya contaminants out of the paint and prevents scratching when doing the rest. Then a compound, hand is better unless you have orbital polisher with sponge pads. get all the crap off it and let the good paint shine. (Normal polishers leave swirls) Then Polish it up by hand. Then the final wax by hand. There are better products, but for a daily, this stuff brings em up schmicko. Jack.

Heya Johnanthony, Next time try using a lil anti seize compound on ya bolts before they go in, gives you a more true torque reading. Use quality head bolts like ARP because some cheapies are shit steel. That is about all I got. Nice discussion on torque flex too. I use a long socket, no flex. Jack.

I dunno mate, most of us here are a bit warped in the head but it doesn't affect our mechanicals............ LOL Are you any closer to finding the problem? Jack.

It will be from using Foot pounds measurement, which is tighter than Nm. The head bolt specs are in Nm for Fords. It's sometimes easy to do, for some god unknown reason they put Foot Pounds on the torque wrenches on the side you look first and Nm on the reverse, none of them use different colours or something to make the two look different (hint, hint tool makers). We used to grab a chicks nail polish or some model paint and fill the letters on each side with a different colour....... helps. Jack.

Is the battery new or old one? First try running that second battery down to maybe 9-10V and see what it floats at after charging from a bit lower. If you have a multi-meter use that to confirm the chargers voltage at the charger output and also the battery itself. Jack.

With that bumper you can't get the spare wheel carrier open, the tow bar is also usually a reece hitch on XH with a square end and the XF has a flat bar hitch. You may need tow bar as well to suit the bumper. I'd rather have a box for me spare wheel to sit in than a poxy winch underneath. Have a look at this one........ http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/4408-a-few-xd-to-xh-ute-parts/ Bumperettes Rock! Jack.

Crushed satin....................give it a more dracula kind of vibe.......hehe Mate those heads look lovely, can't wait to see all this come together... like a kid in a candy shop.... Jack.

Don't close ya thread Matt, there is nothing wrong with doing it yourself, and there is nothing wrong with asking questions........ on as many farkin forums as you like. As long as your not making it worse, it's how we learn. I'd like to see ya get ya crossy running without spending a squid load,............. it's Australia, we have a crack at it first before we give up. LOL Theres plenty of people here to help you. Jack.

In that link above that XC put up the detroit tru trak is 650 bucks and there is a 28 spline. The tru trak has a much better design without clutch packs and doesn't need to be adjusted. That is an LSD design. Lockers are locked all the time, like welding up your centre, or chucking a spool in. You lose wheel nuts, break axles, and its a bitch to park, best suited for the track or burnout cars. The Outbacks Hydatrak diff was one of the best produced LSD's around, but their downfall is they have a silicon filled centre, when this overheats the LSD loses function and can fail completely, and seen as the hydratrak coupling is not servicable, it's a new one (pretty much impossible to find now) or change it over for something else. I will be going trutrak in my ute. Jack.

No wukkas Wagoon, I think pro250's advice is better than mine especially if the wheels are off. Have fun, hope it turns out to be a pearler for ya. Jack.

One wheel on ground, one wheel in the air, if wheel in air free spins she's rooted. Check for play by rocking the hub backwards and forwards, too much play, she's going to be trouble. If out of car you may have to get someone to hold the one wheel on the ground, usually the cars weight will hold it steady. I always look at the condition of the back tyres, and check the handbrake cable, if it looks like some cocks been doing Burnouts with it alot or handbrakies, would look at another one. There is a special torque arm to check the lash in them, I havent got one. Jack.

Geebus Dave, you really did delve deep, well done. Thats some awesome info. Jack.