Outback Jack

Wtf is the pressure relief on the radiator cap for then? So things dont over pressure. Thermostat.... no bypass... Works just fine... they did all thru time until you mentioned it doesnt.... I just wont waste me time mate. Jack. Sent from my GT-S7583T using Tapatalk

Lol. Mate there are millions of thermostats without bypasses. Test my theory... block bypass with a rivet..... bet it gets to temp. If not thermostats open constant. I bet the thermostat is wrong 100% because it cant stop water flow.... Either when done up it hits on thermostat body and opens it or something else... sure its not upside down.??...is it sealed around edge properly.?? No water flow.... car get hot... its a motor.... if it cant reach operating temp at idle before driving... not good. Remember these cars were designed in England so stop going on about the enviroment.... its a non issue. Did you ask for the same thermostat as you had??? Or did you ask for one for the correct year and model? Jack. Sent from my GT-S7583T using Tapatalk

Its the thermostat. People keep telling you... you just dont want to listen. I ran escort mk1's for years. Never had a problem like that. If the motor cant get warm enough its not a radiator issue or an external temp issue. Cars in Russia seem to be able to get to temp.. lot colder than there. Water pump moves water... not the radiator and nothing goes past the thermostat until it opens.... and for that to happen has to be at Temp. Basic 101 mechanics. Maybe try a thermostat with no bypass. Just because you replace with same one... doesnt mean it was right in the first place. Jack. Sent from my GT-S7583T using Tapatalk

Need this workshop manual.. bought online. Only XF workshop manual available is named the Nissan XFN ute workshop manual... also bought online.. Jack. Sent from my GT-S7583T using Tapatalk

No probs Amy, sometimes can be a bugger to find a culprit on xg.... electrics wise... still gremlins me from time to time... haha Sure we can help ya get it sorted. Jack. Sent from my GT-S7583T using Tapatalk

There is one. On the row of relays under the bonnet near the battery is second from the back... start relay. Sometimes relay blocks are not in correct order.... So one you want...one wire will be Red with a blue stripe.. this is the starter wire from the ignition. Then you know for sure you got the right relay.... only goes to one. Let me know how ya go. Jack. Sent from my GT-S7583T using Tapatalk

Tfi on crossy has 3 wires... on e series there are 5. TFI wire for ground goes to ecu pin 16 on e series -EL ecu or pin 15 on crossy ecu. So connect yours straight to ecu pin 16. You need 2 more inputs for EL ecu.... You already have PIP, Spout,and ignition ground... to ecu. Thats 3. Now you need ignition coil negative to dizzy and Power to starter switch from dizzy. Then the e series ecu has all its inputs. That completes an earth cuircut for all. This pic shows you all you need to know. Thats an eec-IV wiring diagram... thats what your ecu is looking for. Jack. Sent from my GT-S7583T using Tapatalk

The earth wire from dizzy goes to block. Same on my XG. Your looking at a schematic..... the connection is the block. Can't draw a block on wiring diagram. Make sure block earths to body and ecu earths to body..... simples.... Sent from my GT-S7583T using Tapatalk

Yes. Drain tank, but you also need to flush the lines until the fuel filter.... with clean fuel, after its the right colour.... new filter... new pump with filter sock. Something has contaminated the tank, clean completely before refill. Ive had cars sit 10 years and not do that.... just fuel gets stale. You just stirred up all the crap in the tank with 5L. Good luck. Jack. Sent from my GT-S7583T using Tapatalk

Thom da man.... great thread. Different valve guides on xr6 also but ya got the rest. Sent from my GT-S7583T

Yeah no worries VB. Chuck some pics up tomorrow... looking for special tools... hehe. Jack. Sent from my GT-S7583T

Ok, going to change the standard 11mm lifters to 11mm Camtech ones. These have a ball bearing instead of the washer type system... basically an anti-pump lifter. Will get to pressure and 'bleed off' any excess instead of keep trying to pump up like a normal lifter. The problem is there is a shim on every lifter. These come in 1.6mm , 1.9mm , 2.4mm . In order... plain, one dot, two dot. First of all.... can't find a set of them and need 12 of each size to make sure got right sizes. Second..... need the tool as pictured to compress the lifter in the arm so can do shimming properly. This is the way the adjustment is done per Ford Bible..... Now from what I have seen... no one is doing this shim proceedure when recamming or replacing lifters and I want to know why? Also do the camtech lifters even require shims? I know how to do it... not a prob but this info maybe handy for someone later. I did find a place on net , precision shims but I have no idea what kit they could make for me yet. Will find out. Want to cam it up, new springs, t.i. chip etc but access to have head shaved is a problem. Fuel I can sort. Motor has never overheated but not sure throwing an au head gasket and arp bolts at it will be enough alone. Because I kinda hate to do lifters and be sooo close to a naked, easily removed cam..... Jack. Sent from my GT-S7583T

Cool VB.... for some reason I thought they meant shimming the rocker assembly. Lol. Your probably spot on, I havent slept much for a long time... everday.... just a lil frazzled......so excuse my dumbness. Have to get cam chain tensioner tool, lash adjuster bleed down tool(in rocker arm screw down type) and kit for tensioner incase o rings perish on removal. That should do it.... I hope... lol. Jack. Sent from my GT-S7583T

Cheers VB. Yeah lifter shims still needed with crow cam its the rocker gear shimming your thinking of. Any other cam needs rocker gear shimmed. Always on any cam need the correct clearance at the lifter so shims are a must. Lifter tick dissapeared today..... twice. Then came back when put ute away.... Big Reds a tease. Jack. Sent from my GT-S7583T

Ok.... went a diggin in back of parts Outback... thought I had a rocker assembly and cracked head in there somewhere.... haha.. This is the top of a 4.0L shim and this side goes into the rocker arm..... This side has 3 oil grooves and the lifter head sits on it (open end). Always faces away from rocker arm!!!!!! Managed to salvage 10 shims from old assembly... Still have all 12 lifters... but had to search for them...lol This is the order of install.... Rest of rocker assembly has been sprayed in wd40 and wrapped in gladwrap and cardboard so have a spare. Whats interesting is every shim should have an identifying mark according to manual. One , two or three dots.... no farkin dots there unless I'm blind. In fact I would say they where Identical sizes by eye..... havent got a micrometer..... The mystery deepens.... Jack. Sent from my GT-S7583T

Hey mate, yeah the actual job of putting lifters in not the problem. Valve clearance-adjuster collapsed is 0.4-1.1. mm? Not sure if thats mm or not. I dont need to collapse lifters apart to check shims from cam clearance to rocker arm height. And with no oil in em... can crush em with ya fingers. I dont oil em up... go in dry... like a school kid.... lol Oh... and I have the valve timing figures and specs for 4.0 vs 4.0 xr6 Change ya valve springs, guides, cam and shave the head ..... whallahh!! Xr6 head.... is the ONLY difference... Besides the fancy cover. Chamber size 4.0L.... 62.25-64.75 4.0L XR6 .......58-60. Thats a shaved head cause internal parts are identical besides those listed above. Gain 12kw and 17NM of torque. Cheers Dave, wealth of knowledge as always. I got a spare rocker assembly in back of spares ute.... will grab all the shims.... if there and clean em up and hope between them and what I have its enough.... I will find somewhere to have some kits made up and get some extras done up. Because in all honestly it would be like driving around in a crossy with the wrong tappet to pushrod clearance... just not adjustable..... lol. I'll use a set of stilsons with hose on the jaws to hold em closed in the rocker arms if need be while I measure clearance... Im a bass player... should be doable by hand... hehe.... Jack crush lifter.... lol. Sent from my GT-S7583T

Check all your earth leads. Dash and all thru car. Sounds like shit earth mate. Was on my mystery tail light blows few years back. Sent from my GT-S7583T

He's done that before.... Almost worked on me too .... charmer.... Sent from my GT-S7583T

Thats where the 1600 springs come in... will stop the spring collapsing in the corners... Cheapest fix ever. Sent from my GT-S7583T

Was cam lump on that one.... 15 minutes to get it to idle every day. Rip the mk1 from side to side like a see saw.... lol. Worst stereo sub pump Ive been in blew out the back hatch window and punched a hole thru the sunroof. I was in the car..... driver forgot to wind the window down.... dumb arse. If you want to tighten up that front end look for a pair of 1600 escort front springs... cheap stiffen up. Higher front.. lower arse works good on escorts for handling. Watchin build with interest. Jack. Sent from my GT-S7583T

Love ya Escort Panko, Stereo sub is loud because smaller boot area and less sound proofing. Just a tip..... locktite the rear number plate.... ask me how I know.... lol My Esky was Exaxtly same as yours down to the colour just 2 door with a firebreathing 2L worked motor fuelled by a 350 holley. 250hp. Power to weight baby! Jack Sent from my GT-S7583T

Be heater core cause ya say leaks regardless of rain or not... Carpet goes round it so water goea under carpet just to make it harder to find. Check hose connections at firewall too. Jack. Sent from my GT-S7583T

Penrite Trans Oil semi synthetic in box now. Shifts lovely and smooth. Also T50D box holds 2.2L not 1.9L as per workshop manual. Maybe Pro Gear is just the wrong oil for the job. Jack. Sent from my GT-S7583T

Whack a bottle of injector cleaner in her and take it for a good run... will clean her up... all good. Fuel filter will of kept the rail and injectors clean enough. Sent from my GT-S7583T

Heres what ya should use in a T5.....if you want to go Penrite. Read the label.... you'll understand why you have shift problems with other fluids.... too viscous. The additive just thickens it. Also if you use a Hydratrak Diff... Outback Owners.... This is the forshizzle... You want a diff oil that suits a hypoid type diff... not lsd... because that is clutch pack, not fluid filled coupling. I love my Penrite..... Death to the Non-Believers! Lol. Jack. Sent from my GT-S7583T