Outback Jack

That's no good Revhead. I thought the tune came loaded on the j3 ready to roll. Anyway I think I have the answer to my base timing question. Base timing for EA-ED or XG is 10 degrees BTDC. Base timing for EL is 0 degrees or TDC. If you are putting an EL ecu into an EA-ED or XG you need to: 1. Get the engine to operating temp. 2. Connect a timing light and put the original EA-ED or XG ecu into diagnostic mode with bridging wire. 3. Set the base timing to TDC or 0 degrees instead of the normal 10 degrees BTDC base timing. 4. Stop engine, unplug diagnostic mode bridging wire. Connect new EL ecu. 5. Start engine and should run spot on. Don't know why that info is not on the t.i. performance site with the upgrade info . Otherwise your running at 10 degrees advanced on the EL ecu. Thanks to Thom, Ozy mechanic and me for figuring it out. 4L SOHC rule! Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Yeah I can see you needing to get a j3 chip for an XF crossy conversion to EL ecu but ED to EL is just a faster processor and a few extras like thermo fans etc. You have to pin out for the BBM separately, which I don't need. Its not active unless you wire it up. I have already read all the t.I.performance stuff and if basically says EL ecu is plug and play with no j3 into EA-ED and XG. My question was more to do with base timing and making sure that is correct and affect of locked timing on the EL ecu. Later I will get a j3 but I got a 6TAC coming which is an XR6 EL ecu, so I want to run that tune first and see if it matches my cam, head shave and 3 angle valve job. Should be close. Did you read the info from t.i.performance properly Panko? Think you will find it states j3 is optional. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Hey Plankman, Did you end up getting her sorted? I am looking at putting a EL XR6 ecu into my XG soon. Does your XG have smartlock on it? because XH does and if your ute doesn't then this maybe the reason you have no spark. You will need a j3 chip or similar to disable smartlock on ecu mate. My XG has smartlock so its a straight swap. Sorry for the late reply and apparently EL ecu is plug and play according to t.i. performance site. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

That kind of looks like it was made that way. The connector pin is a button type. Try a bit of WD40 and let it sit for a bit, then try removing it again. Probably just corrosion holding it in. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Hey mate if it's the same as XG , it's in the engine bay on the passenger side towards the back of the motor. In XG its under the log manifold, not sure what motor you have, carby or efi. I'd have a look there, XF and XG have fairly similar engine bays. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Cheers Jason, looking at EL ECUs now. Thanks for the prompt reply. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Nice work Revhead, that thing has had a lot of love, bet it's fun to pedal. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Hey Jason, Looking at a Stage 1 or 2 tune j3 chip. Can you do a nice tune up for my: 96 Outback ute. 3DAC ecu 3" Pod intake Stage 1 Crow cam (222825) 9.5-10:1 compression Head is 94AB with 3 angle valve seats. MLS-R 1.3mm head gasket. Extractors into hi-flow exhaust. Adjustable fuel pressure regulator 5 speed manual T5 3.45 hydratrak diff. I was looking at getting a 2DAD or 3TBB ecu and just upping the fuel pressure for that but would be interested in what your j3 chip can do. Cheers, Jason. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Go the XG to do up mate, it has a better look and yours looks nice. Check out my thread, I'm just freshening up a 300,000km motor in my XG ute. Have fun. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Thanks Sparky, some useful info there. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

+1 for the DBA T2 rotors, run mine for almost 10yrs, had to be machined 6 months ago. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Hey Guys Outback Jack here, I'm going to start this thread on trouble shooting rough running on the 4.0L SOHC motor as found in E series and the X series, like my XG ute. There's a lot of stuff on the net but not a lot of solutions, so first we will look at my ute, and then use the thread to help others diagnose their problems. OK, first up, some details on the ute. Type of vehicle: 1996 XG ute- Outback. Manual 5spd. Problem: Ute has stuttering/hesitation/missing under load/accelerating from stop. Usually in lower gears. Has stuttered/missed once at speed while overtaking on highway. Symptom lasts 3-4 seconds then clears. Motor seems a little down on power in general when pushing accelerator at cruising speed/accelerating. Work so far: I have run a code reader on ute and has NO fault codes with Key.On.Engine.Off. test or Key.On.Engine.Running. test. All clear. So it's nothing the ECU monitors. Condition of motor and bolt ons: Fuel pump- Good. Fuel Pressure Regulator-New Distributor- Bosch , 7yrs from new. Fuel Injectors- replaced last year. Thermostat- replaced last year. Fuel filter-replaced last year. Motor has a bit of an oil leak on coil side of motor, not major. Coolant levels stay constant, Oil is nice and clean. Have a ticking lifter that has been the same for years and ute ran fine with this in the past, or at least no hesitation. Checked all leads with a timing light and all set off the light fine. Plugs are due for a replace, will be first thing I do today after gapping properly. I have a new set of Bosch leads, NGK plugs and a New coil ready to throw at it but might wait until I have a new dizzy cap and rotor here, as getting to coil and dizzy is a mission on the XG, so might as well do it all at once. I also have a new fuel filter just in case. That's about as much info as I have so hopefully with that and past experience from others here we can narrow it down, and I hope this will provide info for others with the same sort of problems in the future as these models get older. Cheers! Outback Jack. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Heya Van, Yes mate, caps and rotors are same on 6 cylinder XH as XG. Will also fit E series with SOHC motors. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Had some goodies arrive..... That's my new Rotor caps and Rotor buttons. Spares now as my problem is solved. I have fixed my hesitation on acceleration in the XG. It was the fuel filter, must of been clogged enough just to struggle under load. When more fuel was demanded the fuel filter was blocking up. Was after market sintered metal type, now banished. Replaced with new standard Ryco fuel filter. Another thing to replace.....there is a connector between the fuel pump and hard line in the tank, that with age can fail and leak, replace with a piece of efi fuel line and clamps. Will keep proper pressure in lines after the pump. Blocked fuel filter also makes for longer/rough crank at starting. Just goes to show, start with the simple things first. Save yourself time and money. First check the obvious... Fault codes. If all clear...11 11 -10- 11 11 THEN ... Air/Fuel/Spark. So first check air filter, fuel filter and spark plugs, then work up from there. Next would be Plug leads/Dizzy cap/Rotor. That will cost you a max of $250. You have eliminated the basics. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Yeah your right dean, the interior light fuse needs to be there. Globe maybe not if your mates operates without it. 10A fuse. Also check the wiper fuse. This is also on the wiring for smartlock. 15A fuse. I have a workshop manual with fault finding for smartlock, its XG but should be the same for XH. Try this first after checking those fuses. If that doesn't work I have some more stuff on the smartlock to help fault find it, just bear with me my camera on this phone sucks. Jack. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Hey Searley, If you had that problem with the interior light switch, did you fix it? The interior light is part of the circuit of the smartlock system. Globe has to be in and working properly. Its a 10w globe from memory. EDIT: The interior light FUSE must be working, 10A. Referred to as Courtesy lamp. Hope you have some luck with her. Interested to see what's wrong. Just seems strange you didn't have a problem with her until the interior light problem. Jack. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Hey Guys, The code that shows you aircon is ON or in Drive is Code 67 and will appear during a Key ON /Engine OFF test. Workshop manual says this must be corrected before continuing. The vehicle will not self test during engine running with a code 67. Another thing to watch out for when fault finding an XG. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Hey vanJack , I have replaced an ECU in the past, about 7 years ago. The first sign usually something is wrong is the aircon doesn't work properly and Erratic idle. The most common fault on the ECU's is a blown Low idle circuit internally. Which is connected to part of the aircon system. Aircon if faulty MUST be repaired before ANY other testing for faults is done. This problem (code 67) needs to be rectified before you can get the ECU to self test in running mode. The low idle circuit is linked to a lot of other systems on the ECU. Faulty ECU low idle circuit can be misdiagnosed as a faulty thermistor on the air conditioner. This controls the aircon temperature. Plugging in a new ECU with a good low idle circuit will let the thermistor function again. Hope that explains what your problem maybe was. A lot of things can cause idle problems on XG's, intake vacuum leak, idle speed controller, dud spark plug or lead. I try and go through the simpler, less expensive stuff first and go from there. Jack. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

All good dean, the hose clamp that looks 'crusty' is actually off the efi system. It does look a bit dodgy, must be the pic angle, but I assure you it's fine mate. It was the other ones I was worried about, so I put 2 on each hard-line...haha. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

EFI pressure rated hose clamps... First I've heard of that. Maybe on higher pressure systems. They make efi hose clamps with an extended tang to prevent hose damage but that's all I've seen, other than that they are just hose clamps. The fuel line only holds like 30-32psi, roughly 350kpa, the rest is bypassed by the fuel regulator. Those clamps will do the job just fine, have been using them under the ute for years with no problems. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Hey dean,Yeah the leads, coil and dizzy cap/rotor were next on the list. Waiting on Bosch Dizzy cap and rotor to get here so I can do it all at the same time. OK, well today I started by pulling out a proflow fuel filter, has a sintered metal filter inside. She was a bit dirty inside and I had been wanting to go back to a Ryco set up. Fuel filters on these Ute's are usually bolt up type but people always round off the nuts making it a bastard to fix. I have cut the hardlines back a couple inches each side so I can fit a barbed Z200 ryco filter in. Took a bit of messing around but now even sits in stock fuel filter holder. While I was under there I noticed the vapour line that goes to the carbon cannister was split at both ends where it went over the connectors, so that was replaced as well. That would not affect the running of the ute, just a do it while your there job. I had a set of Bosch plugs in the ute, which were overdue for a change. As you can see they have been running a bit rich. You can see it a bit better in this pic.... I think what has happened is the fuel filter was semi blocked, causing a lean condition at the O2 sensor, which the ECU then Richens up the mixture to compensate. Hence the darkish plugs. Plugs were replaced with standard NGK BRE527Y-11 I have taken the ute for a 110km drive and it is more responsive and the hesitation/missing seems to have stopped on take off Happy days. I will continue on with this thread as I want to replace the dizzy cap, rotor, leads and maybe the coil. We will see how long the fix lasts, but that fuel starvation and rich plugs is something to watch for when fault finding. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Cheers Ando, Hopefully its something easy to fix and not a major problem but we will see...... Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

OK, today I'm doing the fuel filter and changing the plugs. Will then take her for a drive and see if that makes any difference. It's got to be fuel or spark that's causing the hesitation/missing. I don't think it's the plugs but they are due for a change. I'm leaning more towards fuel filter, but could be breaking down coil or lead, dizzy cap or rotor fault.... and at the worst the tfi or a fault in the electrics, will check the injectors as well if needed. Start with the simple-cheaper things first. Will be back with results after I've taken her for a run. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Just a heads up for XG ute owners. May fit other E series too. Super cheap Autos has Bosch rotor caps and rotor buttons cheap at the moment. Bosch Rotor Cap suit XG Part no. GB862C $4.99 Bosch Rotor Button suit XG Part no. GB865C $4.99 Usually a lot more expensive to buy these. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Very cool Sparky. That's a great idea. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk