Stumps

Ok , i've been looking at a lot of US websites like classicinlines.com doing research on different carb setups for ford inline sixes and while most of what i found is based on pre crossflow 200's and 250's, i did find some very interesting setups that i reckon would work a treat on a worked crossflow engine especially this http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b534/fordrpo83/Mobile%20Uploads/img_7663_zps2a8c4d5b.jpg I reckon with 3 BX stromys from an XC or XD setting up the linkages would be fairly easy as the factory accelerator cable would work with the center carb and you could set it as a progressive setup for both economy and performance. The only issue i can see is with an inlet manifold, as i have no major fabricating skills i would need to get one made up, can any one reccommend anyone to do this? The manifold would really just be based on the factory one with 2 more flanges for the other carbs as a common plenum would be beneficial to the progessive setup. Can any one help with this?

Hey mate, we all gotta start some where, if you do it yourself and you bugger it up, it might cost you a few hundred bucks for the paint etc and a bit of time, but if a painter/panel beater fucks it up it'll cost a bucket to fix, and not many panel beater are out there willing to admit fuck ups (once again I know from experience), I've seen plenty of blokes cars, some on this forum and others on Xfalcon who have complained about a shit job only to find their car towed out to the street and left unfinished, and have had to finish the job themselves or worse yet strip the car down and start from scratch. It sounds like I have a beef with the Auto paint industry, and I try not to, but my good experiences are few and far between in the last 20 years or so and the problem with dodgy panel beaters seems to be getting worse. I've done a few cars myself and while it hasn't been all fun and games it's has been a whole lot cheaper and satisfying to do myself than to pay some dodgy cunt to fuck me over.

Nath, if that's the worst rust you got, it'll be a fairly easy job to prime and respray your car, a high fill primer will sort that out no worries.

If you've stripped the paint off and found no serious rust issues, you can either sand blast the body if you are going back to bare metal or if not try to remove as much surface rust as possible and treat the rest with a rust converter. For small dents or any pitting left by the rust you can use a filler (bog etc) or a high fill primer surfacer which fills any small imperfections in. Not a hard job to prep a body just very time consuming.

SLO247 has hit the nail on the head, Nath i have no doubt a young bloke like you can knock over a half decent paint job. The first time is always daunting but a few practise runs and a bit of research and its a piece of piss, and if you get good at it you can always make money off ya mates by spraying their cars.... Just a thought.....

A polaris blue XD with a nice set of B45's or Convo pro's would look very horny....ohhhh think I need the home made fleshlight...be right back

I don't wanna put you off Nath, as a good fresh paint job is chubby inducing, but here in Oz there are many pitfalls to getting work done so be wary, over charging for a substandard work is more than common. But with that said Auto acrylic is fairly easy to work with and with a bit of practice can produce good results and with the right prep work can be reasonably cheap too.

$5k for a paint job?....I'll believe it when I see it Unless you are going to completely strip the car to the bones and back to complete bare metal and then reassemble it yourself don't count on a $5k paint job. I don't want to offend any panel beater or painters here but the auto paint/panel industry is one of the biggest rorts in the history of rorting. Sorry to put it like this Nath, but when it comes to that side of doing up a car be prepared to bend over and cop it sweet...if you know what I mean

Nath, another thing to organise with the panel beater would be a weekly payment plan, bullshit or something and say you are crap with managing money or something similar and you would like to pay for the work that has been done each week, rather than at the end. This will cut down the amount of time and fucking around the panel beater/spray painter will take to do the job, more often than not they just see an old project car as something to do in their spare time and push it to the back of the work shop...or in the case of my old EB XR6, outside where it will sit for 6 months before they get motivated to work on it. Another thing to check is to see if any apprentices will be working on it as they will often end up being a bodgy stuffed up bog job, or a shit paint job, or sometimes much worse, as I found out with my EB. There are plenty of good panel/paint shops out there but a lot more dodgy ones getting about who will do a substandard job and rip you off, remember when you take the car about if the guy either doesn't look at the car or doesn't take any notes/has a good look at suspect area's or just plain ummm's and ahhh's about it then say thanks but no thanks. I had more than my fair share of dodgy body work/spray jobs and I've learnt the hard way how to get a good result and anything under $10k is not a bargin.

Mate let us know what you come up with i'd interested in one that'll work like the yank setups.

I dunno, i reckon a crossflow version of the tri power setup would be kinda cool. 3 strommies would be worth around 450-500 cfm and would be ok for a reasonable six, maybe 200-250hp. The yanks seem to like them. But its all theoretical any way, im a computer engineer with no fabricating skills so it'll never happen.

It's mostly for something different bit and wondering what it'd go like and to see if I could even get a manifold made up.

I wonder if I can get holley 4 barrel to 1 barrel sromberg adapters and then use the aussiespeed manifold...hmmm

Thats kinda what i envision for a manifold for triples or even twins. That would work quite well if it can be tuned properly.

getting it working with a progessive setup might be fraught with danger, it could probably be worth while running them together and easier to setup as well. I might see if i can get in contact with classic inlines in the US and find out how difficult it is to tune the tri power setups. failing that ,twin strombergs would still be very cool and might be the go holden X2 style with out all of the crustiness that is a red motor.

Correct me If i'm wrong but the manifold to head flanges on the alloy head are the same for all six ports right?

cool setup Jca4, those are 32/36 webers right? what cam did you use with those as they would be a fair bit bigger than the BX strombergs I want to use?

I wonder if i could join up the 3 center sections to create the common plenum so it'll cruise on one carb?

Thornspawn, mate thats awesome it's almost what i am after, do you have any pics of the manifold?

Gerg, a twin stromberg setup is what i thought of first and i've had that idea for over 10 years, something similar to a 179 X2 holden setup but with slightly taller carb flanges so i could have a pair of 5 inch air cleaners poking through the bonnet on one side for a different look, but then i saw the ford Tri Power setups the yanks use... The Tri power carbs setups use the center carb for cruising and using a staged progressive linkage system only open up the outer carbs when the throttle is floored. The manifold would need to have a single log like plenum with the carbs placed along the top maybe something similar to a turbo manifold only with a smaller plenum and no throttle body at the front. Just ideas i guess....but damn it would look cool.

Awesome Cortina mate...but I still reckon that spoiler would look better on a white Cortina.... ;)

Can i have that boot spoiler for my cortina

Nath you'll need to have the vac advance working on your car for best performance. Post 86 XF's used an EST distributor which had a computer controlling it. Pre 86 XF's and XE's used the standard dizzy which requires vacuum advance to work. Try to set up the vacuum lines to run like your stromberg set up worked for the advance as just dodgying things will cause more issues and the car wont run right.

The vacuum advance should have a little red plastic star thingy around it on the carb.

http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Weber_Conversion