Searley

Hello Mr.Hendrix not Jimi,That info should be a Great Help. Someone put a bulb & battery in the torch.Now a curious question,if I put a J1 Chip in the the system and it works what does a J2 or J3 Chip do? More Power & Ooompha and does it require more other mods just curious.Have a Great Wonderful Day in the Freezeing Adelaide Hills! Searley.

Ok Good I'll find something evetually.Thanks

Ok Thx Anyway Why are you Hendrichc Do you play guitar like Jimi or like his music?

Yeah Maybe a mouse and cockroach got into it and had a Party! Mysteries!

Hi hendrixhc,There's a same size box located left hand side passenger where they put their feet under plastic with Lots of wires comeing out.That must be it.What can you open up that box and get to those relays or just get a new one,maybe Tap it a few times and hope it works,Where's my Hammer?

Ok Guys,Today was'nt succesful.I looked under the dash near the handbrake and only saw 3 relays for non-ignition things like acc,took them out and cleaned them put them back in and Tapped them but nothing happenned,Could'nt see any BCMs anywhere.Amyway Don't Give Up Thanx.

Ok mate I know the ones,I hope this means I'm goanna kick goal tomorrow! Thanks

24 minutes ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

Fuel, Air, Spark and Compression.

 

Check them off the list, and it should run.

 

Oxidised Smartlock/BCM relay contacts can affect the ECU's ability to fire the injectors.

Check with a noid light, while cranking.

Ok So where are the BCM relay contacts located? Thanks

Hi Deankdx,Yes Sir, I gave away a 200 cu/in carby x-flow.with a spare recond head plus a cast iron iron head and I'm thinking about $Getting it back even $Buying it back to use so you don't have these issues.Like go forever without the fancy headaches.Yes Sir there's going to be lots of 1/2 dead or 1/2 alive cars out there in 5 years time.Imagine takeing out a New Range Rover out in the Bush 4WDing.I bought an Red XF S-Pak years ago for $1500.00 with 1 owner old guy with 115,000ks It was like brand newbench seat column on the 3 tree,Analog speedo Drove like a Cream Dream everyone said Thats the best example I've seen of an XF ever.I had a nephew I felt sorry for who did'nt have a car when he left school and a XF S-Pak ute that had some issues.And what did the Fukka do? He Swapped it for a VW Bug Convertible. I Nearly had a seizure.Rule No.1 Look after yourself and let others crawl their way up if they want to.Thanks for the help mate.S.

Hi SparkyDave,I think the injectors are'nt working.This carwould start and run like a dream only a 2 weeks ago. Now I'm a real amatuer mech.Whats a Noid light? Is that the same as a Timeing light kit? I've got one but never used it. What and where do you hook up to what & where.   Its gotta be something simple.Thanks Mate Can't wait to tell everybody I got it going!

Actually Now I remember I have a Brand New Dizzy etc in a Box.! Just that problem neing this car is in a very good mates ahed and when I moved house about over 1 1/2 years ago He Asked How lonh will it to to Fix it? And I stupidly said about Öh Abot a week!"Why do Fords seem to Go then the next thing something unknown breaks down that was working yesterday? Patience?? If you sit on the Toilet for more than 2 hours and Nothing has Happenned Guess What? It means "Your're Dead!"By the Way who coined that phrase fords = Fix Or Repair Daily?

Ok I know the thing!

Ok It had a good spark with new bosch coil I'll check again and try another spare.What an where is the TFI Module ? Is that easy to Repair/Replace? How much do they $Cost approx?

Hello Everybody,Searley here who had a unsuccessful day trying to start the XH ute,When I put in the courtes/interior light globe it came on with the doors shut.I found that the RHS door button had gone into the inside of the door coz rubbers perished,Could that have anything to do with it.See it used to start easily with window down or door open etc.I then followed procedures about the "Smart Lok' and when error went away after 30 mins it went "Code" still nogo.I have'nt got the Factory Reset Code but someone said its the last 4 letters of the VIN  Number,Does anyone Know how to find out the reset code number ?Its gotta be a 4 digit number. It seemed like it wanted to Fire a whole lot better but something is still stopping the Dots from being joined.Oh What A Feeling Fordota! Best Regards Searley.

Ok deankdx, That sounds like its within my Capabilities.Going to wait till Easter weekend.Thankyou Very Much for that and May you have a Safe & Happy & Sane Easter!

Hi Ford People.Does anyone know anything about why when I lock my RTV 2004 ute the central locking makes its working noise and unlocks itslef.Sometimes before I was aware of the issue I would lock the car and it locked but when I came back after shopping whatever it would be unlocked.I've read something about Actuators being made of plastic and breaking.Just would like to get some good honest knowledge before I start the stripping off process.Apart from this the RTV has been a brilliant and reliable car.

Hello All,Well I've Already Installed It & Torqued It Up So I'll Have To Keep A Close Eye On Things. What ESPSIX Makes Sense But Its Baffleing Why The Manufacturer Would Have Matching Port Holes From Block To Head But The Gasket Kit Only Half As Much.Yes Sirree Always Use New Bolts And Use The Old Ones For Homemade Mousetraps & Whatnot ARP Studs & Nuts Would Be The Choice But They're Pretty $Hefty For Someone On Newstart. Anyway Thanks Gentlemen I'll Keep You All Posted On What Happens!

Hi Mr. 351XD_Fairmont. I Just Think Its Strange That All The Waterport Holes In The Head Match Up To The Same Waterport Holes In The Block.I Don't Want The Head To Be Hot On One Side And Cooler On The Other. I'm Pretty New To Changeing Head Gaskets So I'm Not Trying To Re-Invent The Wheel.But Everything Being Made In China I Think Its Maybe A Cheap Version Oversight When All The Holes Are;nt There. The More I Hear & Read About Head Gaskets It Sounds Like MLS Is The Only Way To Go But They Have To Be Torqued Down More I Think. Anyway I Cut The Other Holes Out With A Clean Punch And Made Sure There's No Ridges Sticking Up. See What Happens. My Style Of Writeing Goes Back To When I Had A Important Serious Job That Payed Well And The Companies Appreciated That Style Of Writeing In The Paperwork Reports Thats All Now Its A Habit I Should Get Out Of. Thanks For The Reply Its Always Beneficial To Share Knowlrdge & Experience. You Know The Old Saying "The More You Learn The More You Realize What You Dont Know! Best Regards Searley.

Hello Everyone.Twice I've Changed Headgaskets And Each Time I've Purchased The Kits One Chinese The Other "DURAPRO" I Noticed That The Gaskets Had The The Larger Cut-Outs For The Waterports Between The Head & Block But There Was'nt Any For Lots Of Smaller Waterports For Around The Cylinders And Some Smaller Circular Holes Were'nt There ie The Gasket Had No Holes For Them And Had I Fitted It Like That Those Waterports Would Have Been Sealed Off So I Would Imagine That The Head Would'nt Have Recieved Proper Even Cooling Maybe Resulting In Later Head Issues. I Had To Use Clean Circular Punches To Cut Out Clean Holes.It Does'nt Say Anything In Any Books/Mags Or Did The Bloke From The Engineering Shop Who Sold It To Me ay Anything.This Refers To Not A Multi-Layered Steel Gasket But The Standard Type. Can Anybody Enlighten Me The Humble Backyard Spanner Monkey Please,Thank You Searley.

17 hours ago, Valvebouncer said:

G’day Searley, definitely use a permaseal AU mls head gasket and follow the torque specs the gasket comes with, NOT ones in a workshop manual. I use permaseal head bolts too, they will have the part number HS041 stamped in the top of them. Anyone willing to do that gains my trust. Genuine ford ones are no longer available. I personally don’t like Nason as I have seen some of their head bolts fail like the originals and some stretching but that is my personal experience. The choice is up to you.
Be careful with the eBay Seller’s, I couldn’t find one that would package a permaseal head gasket and permaseal bolts, all I found packaged in Nason head bolts so just ask the question before purchasing.

Hi Valvebouncer,Hmmm! e-bay becomes Evil-Bay again.I'll be buying Gaket & Bolts from Repco or BursonS Man so I can visually check.Thanks for that one can Never be Toooo Smart!

On ‎26‎/‎12‎/‎2017 at 6:34 AM, Valvebouncer said:

Ok. Firstly to clear up the misunderstanding, the only reason ef/early el and xh ohc blew head gaskets from factory were because of defective head bolts. The head of the bolt would break off. Ford themselves took responsibility for this back in the day and did a recall to replace head bolts before their clamping pressure released from the head breaking off and blowing the head gasket as a result.

I run a mls (multi layer steel) head gasket in my ute with the block decked 5 thou and 20 thou off the head. As Chris and Dean have said, you must have the head serviced and machined flat. Also you need to check the block, if there is pitting around the coolant galleries it will need to have the face machined. An mls head gasket has no give like a graphite head gasket. The mls one is actually designed so that the outer 2 layers will adhere to the head and block then as it heats and expands (remember aluminium head will expand more than an iron block) then once cool return to its normal seated position. Ford did this so they could run cylinder shut down technology in the case of over heating in au falcons.
Go buy yourself a good quality permaseal mls head gasket and be prepared to pay. Buy permaseal head bolts also. Any company willing to cast the part number in the head is worth using. I sprayed a light coating of hylomar on the head gasket before fitting. Follow the torque specs that come with the gasket. They are different from the graphite ones.
A Barra conversion into a xh is harder than all other x series because it runs a ef/el sub frame with less clearance for the alloy sump.

Hello Mr. Valvebouncer, I've had the Head Tested-All Good & Shaved.Now I've seen on e-bay Permaseal Head Gaskets of Varying $Prices,Some as low as say $90..0 up to $383.00 for a AU Head Gasket.Are there some gaskets made in China with the Permaseal name or is the Genuine Aussie one the Most Expensive? Also I Would like to go using Proper High-Tensile Head Studs,Washers & Nuts But some of these are Pretty Wocking High Dollar Like Up to $50.00 a Stud w/- washer & nut.I don't know how much the Permaseal Bolts are but I suppose they'll have to do.I'll speak to my Local Repco man today.Would Grade 8 Studs be up to it do you think? Anyway,Thanks for any info Gentlemen and Enjoy Your Day!Searley!

Thank You Gentlemen,You Saved Me A Lot Of Those Horrible Mechanical Headaches And Heartaches And Also From Banging My Head Against The Wall(Which I've Never Done) And Then From Becoming Alcoholic!  I've Got To Ge

t Advice From The Pros Before I Put My Head Into The Lions Mouth!

1 minute ago, Searley said:

Hello Mr.Bear351,Yes I'm starting to lean that way.Don't want a Massive Pain Ordeal Mixing & Matching Parts & Bolts & Nuts That First Should/Might Go Together But They Never Will.I Never Thought Of That Coz I Just Assume That Most Of Those Things Would Be Exactly The Same To Make It $Cheaper & Easier For FORD Themselves,But As You Get More Experience With Anything You Have To Throw A Lot Out The Window And Start Again,You Like Playing Monoploy,"Go Back To Jail-Do Not Pass Go!" Thanks For Saveing Me Getting A Brain Tumour!,Searley.

 

 

 

Hello Thom,Ok So I Can Use The AU Head With Cam & Rocker Gear But Keep Evrything Else XH,Sounds Easier.I've Just Had Bad Luck With Single Coil Packs Over The Years And Thought That The Multi-Coil Might Be A Solution.As It Is I've Relocated The Single Coils Of My Fords To An Accessible Position For Easy Testing & Replacement Than The Traditional "Bolt It To The Side Of The Motor With All The Vibration & Heat So It Gives Up The Ghost Quicker And In A Pretty Difficult Position To Get To.I'd Like To Keep This XH Motor As Its Done One Only 125,000 Kms And Every 5,000 Kms The Wealthy Station Ownwer $Spent $3000.00 Replaceing Everything That Could Be Changed Not Just A Cheap Service.Anyhow I Come You Know All Of This Stuff?Did You Work In A Shonky Motor Replacement/Fitting Sort Of Wrecking Yard?I'm Fascinated How You Guys Know So Much!Even The Car Books Say Little Useful Info,Mucho Apprecio,Amigos!

Just now, Searley said:

Hello Mr.Bear351,Yes I'm starting to lean that way.Don't want a Massive Pain Ordeal Mixing & Matching Parts & Bolts & Nuts That First Should/Might Go Together But They Never Will.I Never Thought Of That Coz I Just Assume That Most Of Those Things Would Be Exactly The Same To Make It $Cheaper & Easier For FORD Themselves,But As You Get More Experience With Anything You Have To Throw A Lot Out The Window And Start Again,You Like Playing Monoploy,"Go Back To Jail-Do Not Pass Go!" Thanks For Saveing Me Getting A Brain Tumour!,Searley.

 

 

 

8 hours ago, Thom said:

Use the head cam and rocker gear off the au if you are going to use that head but still use your original intake, injectors, sensors and wiring loom, I wouldn't worry about trying to change to coil packs as that is a mammoth undertaking involving re wiring half the car to do itYou'd need to have the sump modified on the au engine to fit as it would hit the k frame, it's also a massive pain in the arse to get the tensioners and accessories to work together when you mix and match au and xh together as the xh stuff is unique to xh and the au stuff doesn't interchange without hitting the sub rails in the car (ask me how I know)

Hello Mr.Bear351,Yes I'm starting to lean that way.Don't want a Massive Pain Ordeal Mixing & Matching Parts & Bolts & Nuts That First Should/Might Go Together But They Never Will.I Never Thought Of That Coz I Just Assume That Most Of Those Things Would Be Exactly The Same To Make It $Cheaper & Easier For FORD Themselves,But As You Get More Experience With Anything You Have To Throw A Lot Out The Window And Start Again,You Like Playing Monoploy,"Go Back To Jail-Do Not Pass Go!" Thanks For Saveing Me Getting A Brain Tumour!,Searley.

8 hours ago, Thom said:

Use the head cam and rocker gear off the au if you are going to use that head but still use your original intake, injectors, sensors and wiring loom, I wouldn't worry about trying to change to coil packs as that is a mammoth undertaking involving re wiring half the car to do itYou'd need to have the sump modified on the au engine to fit as it would hit the k frame, it's also a massive pain in the arse to get the tensioners and accessories to work together when you mix and match au and xh together as the xh stuff is unique to xh and the au stuff doesn't interchange without hitting the sub rails in the car (ask me how I know)