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ricktewagon

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Posts posted by ricktewagon

  1. Posted

    Thats cam break in...The cam is fucked and so are the lifters and TBH the whole engine needs to be pulled down and done again as all that metal has gone thru the engine now.Ask me how I know that.

     

    There's 1 way to break a flat tappet in and it's time consuming and painful but the ONLY way.Install cam with Joe Gibbs assembly lube,install lifters with lots of lube,install soft outer spring "ONLY" not inners or dampers just the outside,once engine is ready for start up check rockers are set correctly and oil pump is primed with Joe Gibb's run in oil,put a paint mark on the back of the pushrods and leave rocker cover off with bolts and tools to fit cover ready to go and close as possible.Get engine started check the pushrods are infact turning if they are drop the rocker cover on and wind the engine up to 2000rpm and set the timing.

     

    Once it has settled down set idle @ 1500 for 5mins then 2500 for 5 mins alternating for 20min's no less.Keep garden hose handy and extinguisher just in case.Once done 20mins...wind idle back to needed speed and let it cool down a bit go for a drive and DO NOT REV OVER 3000RPM.Do this for a week then fit inners and change oil to chosen oil.

     

    I don't care what anyone says and this shit it will be right attitude just doe's not work on these as I have killed enough cams to find out.I even pre-heat the oil on first start up and if It had to do it again I'd use warm water aswell circulated by the EWP to put some heat in the block and components to be extra sure.And yes I'd do it on a basic HYD cammed engine too cos been careful is alot better then re building a engine.

    Hey Sly, its an EFI engine so I need to remove the Plenum for Rocker Cover access. Do you think I could just run the Cam in with the outer springs as you said & drive for a week as described? I also was going to upgrade to Roller Rockers so what will be the go with them? Thanks. 

  2. Posted

    Oh well, shit happens I guess. Ill have to make sure Im there in the future for the break in. The engine was built by a mate & I picked it up cheap when he needed to make some cash - so no warranty there. Looks like I need some money! Thanks for all the help guys even though it was bad news. I was a bit hesitant to pull it apart but now am glad I did it myself. Yes, full rebuild on the cards. 

  4. Posted

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    So had a chance this morning to start tearing down the car & Yep, looks like Lifter Fucked. Hooray!! engine with 2000K's & high performance parts cactus! Fuck this shits me. Does any-one reckon this could have been caused by improper cam break in? I reminded the guys who did the tuning four or five times & they said they did but I guess if it's done 2000K's was probably something else.

  9. Posted

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    Theres my Cam specs & Pushrods I pulled today, all looked like the bottom one except Cylinder 6 Exhaust which was the top one. Length looks the same but maybe a mis-matched Pushrod? Pushrods dont look bent (that I can see) Can I determine Pushrod length for new ones by the Cam Specs? No real rhythm to the sound at idle, but if I revved it up you could hear it was definitely internal. It didnt wanna drive, but changing down gears or with no acceleration sounded normal. Springs, Lifters & Cam are all performance items from Cam-tech. Just normal Rockers & Pushrods.

  10. Posted

    Has normal Head Gasket. Has stock Rockers but better springs & Valves. I work a month on month off roster so In about a year its done 2000K's. Never revved over 6. Camshaft is custom to the fuck, bottom end is lightened balanced etc. Unfortunately I didn't build the engine & the guy who did cant remember fuck all. Havent check Timing or head bolt tension. Ill check what I can as soon as I get a chance. Unfortunately in the process of moving & the Mrs is about to pop our second kid so wont have much time to play with the car.

  12. Posted

    I don't have a boost gauge at all. Would need to plug the laptop in & check it out. It was just pretty sudden to. Yeah it seems relative to acceleration. Idle sounds fine, sounds like it's going to die getting up to 80K's (just from noise from the engine) but whenever your foots of the gas it sounds okay. Even changing down with revs sounds okay. Ill check out the Compressor Wheel in the next day or two. Pistons not sure, am waiting for replys from the guy who built the engine. Nice Crossy though, made 253KW. Yeah it was tuned on BP and the tuner said don't run it on anything else but I was real low and close to Mobil...

  14. Posted

    As the title suggests, my Turbo 250 Crossy has suddenly developed the symptoms of no Power and a quiet but hard intermittent Clicking/ banging, only under acceleration. Like it will idle good, beautiful, rev it a bit and the clicking comes, it has no power on the road but if just changing down and letting it rev a bit, no noise. I haven't driven it since it happened. I wasn't driving it hard at the time but do occasionally. but the engines only done 2000K's +/-. Its a fairly powerful car but now it's just absolutely dead, porbably drove it 25-30K's home after the noise developed. Didn't seem to get worse or louder. Thanks in advance.

  18. Posted

    Hey guys, recently bought a Corty with 15" SAAB rims on, problem is the guy I got it off was still running the stock Corty wheel nuts. Now they hold the rim on but it seems to me they don't have enough taper and sit too deep. My question: is anyone running SAAB rims on their Corty & what wheel nuts are they using? Had a bit of a look around the net and what I could find is expensive as fuck. Don't want to pay the money to have them not work. Thanks guys. Also would I be right in saying the thread size is m12X1.5? & does any-one know the taper on a stock Corty wheel nut?

  20. Posted

    Hey guys just picked up a tirled ol Ford v8 thrown in with a car I brought. I want to figure out if it's a 289 302 etc as the guy didn't know. When I have the Manifold taken off my other car with 289 it is stamped on the top of the block under the manifold. I took the Manifold of this other one and can see no markings. I can see the Engine no. at the front JH71AB which tells me where it was made etc. but not the size anywhere? Shouldn't it be stamped somewhere? it has 8 manifold studs pus the 4 under the carby I think its a 302 but my v8 experience is limited. Thanks

  22. Posted

    Mines on the turbo side, just behind alternator bracket up high on the sump. Was done with engine out. Ive been trying to get some pics up for about 45mins but unless I make them tiny they wont upload. even at 200x200 pixels

  23. Posted

    Hendrix has a thread on xfalcon for changing these gears. I Cant get links to work on this forum for some reason. I did it recently got the part from parts lunacy on ebay, for about 7 bucks and did it in a few hours. Worked like a charm but now I have some sort of wiring issue with my needle bouncing all over the place. 

  25. Posted

    I just chucked it in the shed till I need it so I haven't used it but its got fine tune settings etc, and yeah its electronic its apparently for x series. My XD doesn't have a cable it is electronic. I figure it just adjusts your needle somehow. Apparently use it when your driving. I saw it on ebay last month and snapped it up because Id never seen one

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