XFChris 126 Posted February 14, 2014 I've noticed that as I let my car warmup, the choke plate doesn't open up more as the car warms up (250 Xflow) The car also will stay on fast idle permanently. I have ran a test light from the 12V+ which goes to the electric choke housing, and connected it to the threaded part of the housing, and I got no light at all... Would I have a failed coil/bimetallic spring in the choke? Can you get new ones these days? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BBS XE 160 Posted February 15, 2014 They used to be advertised on ebay new but I can't find them anymore. There should be constant 12v at the choke wire when the key is on, takes 5-10mins to open. The green housing of the element is warm to the touch after that time. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XFChris 126 Posted February 15, 2014 Choke wire is good, constant 12V with the engine running. I think the issue may be at the threaded part of the choke element housing, it only seems to pass through 6-8 volts. Also a continuity test showed that from the threaded part, to the other side of the housing, current wont flow. I'll try and find another used one and see how I go. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XFChris 126 Posted February 18, 2014 Found a good used one and choke works as it should now. If you're going to look for a choke from the wreckers: -bring a multimeter with you -take the choke housing off the carb -set the multimeter to continuity -probe the stud where the 12V+ would connect to, and probe the metal strip on the side of the choke housing -if the multimeter reads close to 0, you should be good to go -if the multimeter reads 1, it;s no good. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
