uterus

1 minute ago, deankdx said:

big fat wire is on the starter.. has 12V straight from the battery..

to make the starter crank when you turn the key, the little wire gets power.. sometimes called a trigger , no idea what the technical term is .. the relay in the first pic would have been on it, but it's not always needed(often added later to help other issues)

ok awesome so i will use that starter as its simple by the look of it and then i will run the 2 wires from dizzy to coil and 1 to ignition module if i use that same dizzy

3 minutes ago, deankdx said:

a normal nut will be better for sure.. 

trigger wire is the small one, comes from near the brake booster and steering box , its the smaller wire in pic red wire.. might be the one you have dangled up near the coil as it looks the same colour code(red with green trace) as the one cut off on the starter

so simply just join those 2 together and run a fat wire from starter to positive on battery and im almost ready to start it apart from coil and dizzy?

8 minutes ago, deankdx said:

that starter should be simple. big fat wire from + battery.. trigger wire should be dangling near it ..

i'm disturbed how close that wing nut is to the dipstick, that is unfused and 12V straight from the battery and if earthed out on the dipstick would be a decent amount of smoke and probably a fire

 

also when you say trigger wire how does that work? 

1 minute ago, deankdx said:

it will get it running, but the shaft size of the electronic dissy of later models is smaller.. and will wear the bushes earlier

i have an electronic one in my f100 and on petrol when you put your foot down it bogs down is that what you are refering to by the bushes wearing down when the secondaries are supposed to kick in? with the bushes being worn

1 minute ago, deankdx said:

i'm not familiar with the colour codes anymore.. i have no idea about those dissys, never owned one..

the wiring is a bit of a mess to be honest, usually it would be fairly obvious to Me

 

yes its a mess alright no care was taken in getting the original engine out.

1 minute ago, deankdx said:

that starter should be simple. big fat wire from + battery.. trigger wire should be dangling near it ..

i'm disturbed how close that wing nut is to the dipstick, that is unfused and 12V straight from the battery and if earthed out on the dipstick would be a decent amount of smoke and probably a fire

 

so i should just use a normal nut be better? it was just on it so i used it. 

and that trigger wire you mean should be near the fat wire of the battery?

and im thinking of putting in an electronic dizzy just so i dont need the ignition module that way its just 2 wires to the coil.

these 2 wires for the coil?

this wire on rocker cover is that for the starter i dont think its long enough to reach

not sure if thats where that was meant to go?

they meant to go there?

that earth wire seems to bolt onto intake under coil it does not seem to be long enough to go anywhere else.

old starter in boot wiring bit is loose

xg starter can i use that? i do have 1 the same in my f100 351 c

ok cheers ive just signed up to imgur so bear with me a minute

Not sure why.

And typically the pics never work for me.

Hi everyone i havent been on in a while. My current project is putting a 351 c back into a zh fairlaine i got hold of mow the engine came out of an f100 i just finished rebuilding it but i have a couple of questions i put the engine in today but not sure on a couple of wiring things lol if anyone can help that will be great.  I didnt take engone out so im trying to figure it all out.

What is this relay for?

These wires im assuming are for earth and alternator?

And this thing is it for dizzy? If yes how do you wire it up?

On 6/3/2017 at 10:23 AM, MNTL.XD said:

Update on this i found out it was the speakers them selves on the back shelf 2 new pioneer speakers screwed in from underneath and cut out the panel from boot as speakers sat down to far and i didnt want to cut the parcel shelf and then i was able to use the original covers from the shelf so it looks like i was never there at all. 😁

 

Bugger. Worth a shot.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
 

 

 

Oh absoutley i will do what i always do. Run new wiring from the front speakers down to the back and just bridge them lol

21 minutes ago, MNTL.XD said:

 

 

Bugger. Worth a shot.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
 

 

 

Oh absoutley i will do what i always do. Run new wiring from the front speakers down to the back and just bridge them lol

Nah it does not make any difference.

Just now, MNTL.XD said:

You would obviously have your front to rear fader set correctly, but have you got the square thing on the display set correctly? It can be set to bias the driver, bias front passengers or rear passengers. Is that set so it's going to all passengers?
(Asuming you know what the hell i'm on about).

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I sort of do yes its in the settings with the square boxes that move around on the dash of the stereo.

1 hour ago, Valvebouncer said:

Could possibly be the head unit

Yeah thats what i thoughtm not going to bother with that as fronts still working so i think i will leave it.

Had a look the speakers are connected so who knows lol

Ok i will go figure out how to get to the speakers from underneath ive never played with the panelling underneath before lol

6 hours ago, Thom said:

Check the earths out, may be the problem

On the speakers them selves you mean?

Ok guys 😁 my wifes ba falcon xt Parcel shelf speakers dont work any idea why you guys know of? No mods to stereo i have all the settings right on stereo just dont work am i just missing something simple?

2 hours ago, bear351c said:

So, cut the 2 bell housings and TIG them together..?? Make a "Frankenhousing"........

Would solve the match up problem, but you could also make it the right length/distance. Big job.

Thats actually not as silly as it sounds. In about a month when i have both the engines out i will start trying to match it all up and then i will be able to see what im up against. Auto seems a lot easier as adapting tbe transfer case will be rather easy but not as much fun as the manual.

16 hours ago, gerg said:

Maybe you could get hold of an undrilled bell and come up with your own mounting arrangements.

Might require 4.0 flywheel and pressure plate clamping the F-series friction plate with a custom pilot bearing. Fork might be a drama depending on if you want hyd or cable setup.

Do you know if the NP input shaft is the same length as a Falcon T5's?

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Ok my gear box is 6.5 inch output and t5 is approx 7.2 and it varies a little i found out the dellow automotive dont anwser their phone. And i am thinking i will have a go at making  the bell housing at this point ive got nothing to loose. Hey i havent even got either of the engines out yet. I want to know what im in for before i commit to taking my bronco of the road.