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Ok my gear box is 6.5 inch output and t5 is approx 7.2 and it varies a little i found out the dellow automotive dont anwser their phone. And i am thinking i will have a go at making the bell housing at this point ive got nothing to loose. Hey i havent even got either of the engines out yet. I want to know what im in for before i commit to taking my bronco of the road.

Ok i will do sum research on them. Cheers mate

Ok so what i have been able to find out is the manual gear box in the bronco is a NP435 and its bolted up to a 250 crossflow. So im hoping someone may have made a casting to suit the 4 litre. I cant seem to find any info on it though.

Lol i want to keep it as a 6 it originally came out with one so it will stay as 1 just newer. I will keep my options open to the manual box as it will be easier to marry everything back up thats for sure and i will only have to get a bell housing to suit to 4 litre and possibly shorten rear tail shaft and extend front one but thats where my fabricating trade of 20 years will come into play. I originally only wanted to cut the rust from the fire wall but wanted to take the engine out to do it properly and i thought i may as well change the engine out. And yeah i have wanted a bronco for about 17 years got 1 in febuary this year always wanted an f100 since i was 5 im now 40 i got a long wheel base 1. 3 years ago now it has a 351 c so i wasnt fussed for having 1 in the bronco i wanted to go a little different with this one.

Well i will be starting a build thread thats for sure. I have started work on stripping the el. Im taking all the wiring loom from inside the dash as i figure it will be easier in the long run. And i just sorted out the idling problem with the 4 litre it was the idle control switch so engine is strong as so thats always a good start.

Oh so not a 5 minute job lol i may put the thermos into my f100 then way more room in there lol

Ok this has been asked many times i know burlt i recently bought an xg ute the temp would over heat so i bought a new one now which ine of those 2 senders that come out of the thermostat block part which one makes the temp gauge in the instrument cluster work as now nothing works. I went to the wreckers and all they had was an el one it fits but it does not have the spot for the smaller one to go into it just the big one got second hand one as i cracked the old one and was wondering do you need the smaller one connected even when i put the old one back on with both the gauge does not work. Im thinking of getting rid of it and putting in an external temp gauge? Any help would be appreciated thanks guys.and why would the gauge now not work even with the original set up back on it? A fuse maybe and if so what ir where is it?.

Im thinking i will although its got a new one in it. It has a 91AB head on it , i just got an ef falcon which has a 91AA head on it and apparently the guy i got it of said they changed iut the 91AA head and put in the 91AB head now i dont know if it will make any difference but im goingcto change it back anyway and see what happens. The ef has a full serpintine belt set up with thermo fans now that should be easy enough to change into the xg yeah looks just a matter of changing out alternator and power steering and putting on belt tenisonet and getting rid of fan clutch or is that set up enough for tge xgs?

Ok cool i put in an auxillary temp gauge it went up to 120degrees Celsius in a matter of 20 mins so yep its def not those temp senders lol

Ok an update on this I finally found sum spare time today an changed the uni joint so far so good . There is no clunk. The old one the seals were gone so that obviously wasn't good the grease i was putting into it was not getting into the caps as they still had the needle bearings but what little grease was in them looked like dry mud.

Ok I have a question for you all my 351 Cleveland has a rattle sounds metal whilst its driving when in neutral and you rev it perfectly fine. It does not do it all the time I was wondering if it could be the timing chain becoming loose I once had a magna that ended up being this. Also I may as well ask since im already asking when you change gears and let out the clutch there is a clunk coming from the tail shaft not all the time and sometimes when you let off acclerator it will and sometimes it will when you accelerate a little now I have ruled out the centre bearing and another ford enthusiast said it may be a uni joint. In saying that it does sound to be coming from after the centre bearing towards the diff so maybe the rear uni joint I was just curious if it could be that? Thanks so much for any help. Wayne

Thats what i was thinking.

An update on the clunk at least i had found where the centre bearing the uni joint just behind it towards the diff has movement so i know thats going but where the tailshaft joins the yolk from the small shaft coming from the gear box has a screw fitting that loosen right off im asuming for getting these 2 apart? But it was loose so i tightned it right up it has taken a lot of the movement from the unijoint. But was wondering if that would cause any damage? I would assume it would beed to be tight. The clunk has gone quite a bit i heard it once today and it didnt sound the same it sounded deeper and not as long if that makes sence? Lol

Hadnt thought of that. I will check that out.

Yeah the rotation must be confusing me lol and the backlash in the diff will have to wait awhile as I dont have that kind of coin its not constant and I treat it gentle so it can wait in my opinion. As for the pinging I will drive this tank empty and try again with sum 98 octane and see if it makes any difference. I will get back to you when ive put fresh fuel in. Thanks guys you have given me sum good info to go off.

Ok i should have explained its in my 1978 f100 and yeah i will admit i have never heard the noise b4 not until i got the fuel running as before it was only running on lpg and yep 91 octane i tried supposed to be 98 and i didnt even see the forghtnight out before the tank was empty but 91 with valve saver i got more kms? So i didnt understand that at all. Lol and yeah diff back lash how do you fix that? And no never done burnouts in it nor previous owner who had owned since new. So when acclerating at around 80 plus kms you drop foot you can hear the chattering but wase up a little and not there. Runs perfectly fine other than that timing is spot on i got a mechanic to do it and ive checked myself with a timing light if you advance it a little it dissapears altogether but you retard it and its there constantly.

Hi everyone I have a leaking wheel cylinder in my drum back brakes on my f100 and was wondering would that be causing the grabby brakes when I first drive it after its been sitting for a bit ? The cylinder has always been leaking on and off since ive owned it since september last year but only the last month have I noticed the grabby brakes the drum also gets quite hot. And the shoes look fine and I have adjusted them so you get 1 full revolution when spinning wheel so any info on this will be greatly appreciated

Oh yes I agree I had to take it apart today to get the size of the cylinder as apparently there is 3 different sizes and hopefully auto 1 has it in stock for tomorrow.

Nah i understand what you mean by spacer now lol i packed it out 10 mm and its now disengaging after you start it. Thankyou guys i appreciate the help very much and i got hold of an xh starter motor so it fitted in great

ok im a little green when it comes to v8s lol will an xf startor motor fit a v8 engine? and would it crank it?

i drilled out the holes and it started it but now the starter motor is staying on??

mine is manual.

ok cool i will go try

ok so if i gring the snout i will be fine or will i need the spacer? and what is it lol

what do you mean by spacer? i thought mine would need grinding thats not a problem.