wagoon

As above I'm using Fuchs Titan Formula 60- formally know as titan race 60. For the price at least from the place I get it  https://maxiparts.com.au/lubrication-and-coolants/fuchs-lubricants/engine-oil/titan-formula-60-engine-oil/ you can't go past it. You pay the same or more for generic penrite stuff. If the budget can stretch a little further here's a 20 litre drum of the same formula 60 which will save you $22 over buying it in 5 litre drums  https://maxiparts.com.au/lubrication-and-coolants/fuchs-lubricants/engine-oil/titan-formula-60-engine-oil-en/

So long as your car is tuned so it doesn't backfire and the foam isn't old it should be ok. If you live in a dusty area you might want to try putting a cover over the filter as they don't really filter out all that much dust.

From everything I've heard those filters don't actually filter out that fine particles, they are quite dangerous as one backfire through the carby and they catch fire. In saying that I had one on a down draught weber that was on my datsun 120y. I never had any drama's with it but it was also only on a 1.2 litre 4 cylinder.

 

If you really didn't want the chrome but still wanted to retain good filter operation you could sand blast/sand the chrome lid and base then paint it or get it power coated.

The cop that used to canary me every week used to say 100mm at the lowest part, which was whatever part he couldn't slide his 

 

100mm metal (home-made mind you) gauge under, regardless of whether it was a suspension component or an exhaust 'U' bolt,

 

he didn't care, he always told any passengers i had in the car to stay in there while he measure it. I made sure i was 110mm (empty)

 

at the lowest point so he said, 'Well, if i can't get you for that, i'll get you for having less than 1/3rd of your original shocker travel.

 

Fkng prick he was.

You can take this to court and if it's all from the same cop you can claim harassment. I know of interstate truck drivers that have been targeted by certain cops and after a few fines they take them to court and they get all their fines back.When the court looks at the cop's fine book and it's clear that they are targeting one person the cop gets a nice talking to from the judge and all the fines are thrown out.

Can't guarantee it will come out in your favour but I know of 4 guys that have done this and have won, although the cases where pretty obvious that they were being targeted

Quote taken from a recent ad for these coilovers...

 

"Spring rate is progressive and ramps up in stages from 550/700LB at ride height to 900LB under full bump meaning greater levels of control."

I rang and spoke to one of the techs at King springs around a couple of weeks ago . During the conversation the guy mentioned that normal king springs (Low's, SL, SSL etc)  are 510lb but he did not mention if that's for all the different heights or a specific height. So that makes the above setting of the XYZ coilovers interesting, but I would want to know what ride height was required to make them 700lb.

That spring wrap tells me that the springs touch at that point so it's relying on the lower section of the spring to achieve the higher spring rate. The only problem with them taking so long to get to the higher spring rate is you are much closer to the bump stops if not touching them already which makes the higher rating redundant as the car can't pass the bump stop height. If you were game you could remove the bump stops but your shocks might bottom out before the spring firms up enough to stop it laying over. There is also ball joint bind and possibly other things binding when at no bump stop height.

 

Again not putting shit on these coilovers just pointing out stuff. Still think they are a good option for someone wanting to get the ride height just right or if you need to replace springs, shocks and spring saddles.

So Zok is still in the capalaba area? Been a few years since I looked up his details

A couple of runs up the gap and a run over to zok's shop should be done for run in yeah? I'm up for that

Zok builds custom carbies, apprently one of the best. Never use them as I cant afford them but have never heard a bad thing. Didnt know he had a dyno, thanks Ando.

Custom segmented pipe(lobster back)extractors. You know you want to.

If I was going to do an NA engine I would start with the heads Sly suggested. If I was going boost I would start with what broken-wheel suggested. Thats my thought and as you can see there is more than 1 way to build a crossflow.

If it doesnt have anything between the 1st and 2nd inlet ports then it is known as a unmarked head. You should be able to find what the standard cc of a unmarked head is with a search on here.

 

Edit: Thanks Broken-wheel couldn't for the life of me remember "unmarked" head

My machinist had a choice to use either 20cc or 29cc dish pistons but didnt want to use the 20cc as it would make the CR around 11 and wouldnt suit pump fuel.

I dont think your sums are wrong. My head is 42cc combustion chamber and piston is 29cc with a bit of work so not exactly sure on cc, but it hasnt been skimmed a lot. I was told my comp is 10.3-10.5 by my machinist.

Anything is possible when you have money, getting something like this tuned just right still just comes down to money. I personally don't think it would be the best performing setup or worth the money it would cost. The issue I see with this setup on a 6 is the limitations of down draught setup, you are always going to have to turn the fuel and air and maintain even flow into all cylinders. Thats where the side draught webber solves that flow issue, and you get the advantage of each cylinder having it's own supply.

If I was to develop anything I would be looking at 6 strombergs so you can maintain individual runner and shape the runner to suit space and setup. But you still have the pain that is linkages and getting all 6 carbies set exactly the same and tuned to the car.

Thats the equal best thing about this forum, pretty much every crossflow configuration has been done by the people here. The other best thing about this forum is that its full of really good people that are happy to help and share their hard earned knowledge...... for free.

What about 6 nice fuel inj trumpets on a Webber crossy manifold,anyone tried that ?

And proof that it does work, the guy I bought my roller cam crossflow off had a 650 mighty demon carby and ran 11.8 Switched to efi with trumpets and ran 11.5 Nice little gain there

Are they crossplys on the front?

Hey there's nothing wrong with hitting the limiter every once in a while.

There is when its just not needed and will cause damage to your engine.

Cant help with rebuild but you can get a new one for under $50 on your door step

Pedders -

 

Rear Bump Stop / Kit

4360 Bump Stop-1pk

 

http://www.pedders.com.au/catalogue/ford/ltd/1982-1988-fd-fe

WOW if you search that part number in goggle it lists the same part number for stuff like BMW 5 series 77-81 models, Mitsubishi mirage 96-2000 models and many more. So if you didn't want nolathane maybe you could go to a wreckers and see if the OEM parts on the cars listed are the same as the falcons

Why on earth would you want nolathane bump stops?

Superpro make a bump stop for the front that is shorter than standard so you don't have to cut them and make you car illegal.

 

Is the rear bump stop your talking about the snubber bush above the front of the diff housing?

WOW that cleaned up really really well. Win for you well done.

 

Got to agree with Pro on the boost as well.

So I'm thinking of getting Koni's and being done with it. Does anyone know where to get them at a reasonable price that would ship to NZ? I'll look up some suspension joints here in NZ and see if they're prices are on par with the cost of importing some. My other option is ebay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Falcon-XE-XF-Sedan-KONI-Adj-Short-Front-Rear-Shock-Absorbers-/281861311614?hash=item41a03e4c7e:g:xjkAAOSwT5tWJiSB&vxp=mtr, never brought anything through it before though.

If you can't get them shipped direct to you in NZ Im happy to ship them from my place. I live about an 1 1/2 from the seller so if they do pickup I would be happy to go down and pick them up and ship them off to you. Can't say that I have every done anything like that before but can't be to hard. Maybe try Australia post website to see if they can give you a postage cost from my place(postcode 4307) to your place you you can get an idea on postage cost.

If you wanted to check the piston while still in the block you could use a dye penetrant test kit. You get them from tool or welding shops. They come in a 3 part kit. The first spray can is used to clean the metal surface(no grinding is needed on a piston surface but a clean with 1500 grit paper would be good) Part 2 is normally a red dye that you spray onto the metal surface, you let it sit for the amount of time the directions say. You then spray the cleaner(part 1) over the surface again but not directly into the crack, you can use a rag to wipe the piston in this step. All you are trying to do is remove the red dye from the surface. The you use the 3rd part which is a white spray known as the developer to expose any cracks. The cracks will show up as red lines cause the dye has penetrated into the crack and the white shows the red dye up. That's why you don't spray the cleaner directly into the crack.

I do this sort of crack testing a lot at work and it works fine and it should work in this situation so long as you clean the top of the piston first with a bit of fine paper. I would remove the sump as well as both the cleaner and excess dye will end up in the sump otherwise. Then when you have checked the piston just spray part 1 of the kit down the bore to remove any excess dye and developer as part one is an alcohol based cleaner it will evaporate anyway. Then new sump gasket head back on and your away.

Can't say I know much about pistons and the internals of an engine but that looks to me like just a mark in the metal. It looks like a gouge or indentation made by something that has entered the combustion chamber, I have seen plenty of cracks in metal and to me that does not look like a crack in metal.