wagoon

North south setup has the carby primaries closer to 123 and the secondaries closer to 456, switch to an east west setup means that 123 has it's primary and secondary and 456 has it's own primary and secondary. This is a really simple explanation but you get the point. I think it will depend on how long your carby is as to whether it will fit.

Just a simple move of the carby closer to the motor when in a north south configuration saw Jason (TF250) gain 1 mph on the strip. So an east west conversion will make a big difference.

Spare bonnet for race day. Just saying....

And when the bonnet comes off after race day the carby spacer and the conversion will have to be changed back as well. Then its a retune because the east west conversion makes such a difference I couldn't run the same tune...just saying

Did you convert it to East West? That does make a very good differnce to a 6 banger. When I tried the 750DP and 4 barrel manifold on the ute it had a instant AFR change from n/s to e/w.

 

Can't recommend this mod enough,it does make good difference.

I would love to do this to mine but just not enough room.Would have to raise the carby so that means hole in the bonnet.

Going to do home wheel alignment when I get around to making something that suits. Don't need to worry about it now as I won't be racing for a while, but will have a setup for street and setup for track. Less than ideal but it is what it is to get the most out of the car use wise.

i used to live next door to Dragway when i was growing up, well across the park and even thou the Weld's looked better the quality of the Dragway wheels were outstanding

 

i like the MB wheels, they are in between the mustang and drag way look

 

You will have a very hard time finding wheels in 8.5 or greater to suit the X series without spacers, specially in 17" or 18" where all the good rubber lives, had to find decent size rubber in 15" now even in semi slicks, best range you'll find is in 18" with 17" coming in second but a little cheaper. I used 888's and NT01 and both sucked ass. I think for your type of events you want 245 front and 275 rears in something sticky like the Advan rubber, don't bother with Nitto or R888's you'll never get them hot

 

if you're going to eventually get the 330mm front disks then 50% of the 17" wheels won't fit them

 

how can you not like the drag ways http://www.canberratoranaclub.com/images/golf/feature/IM000288.JPG

(yeah wrong car but nice)

Just not my sort of wheel dude. I am quite strange and like not normal things so it fits with me. There are a lot of things normal people like that I just don't get and really don't like.

As for finding wheels, you are right. There are a limited number of wheels but mainly in my price range of fuck all, if you have some coin to spend there are plenty of wheel to choose from. The gold wheels that Ando is speaking of come in perfect offset for an x series in 17x7 17x8 17x9 and 17x10, but again there are only a few wheels like that under $2500 a set. if your willing to spend $3000+ on a set of wheels there are more than a dozen proper lightweight wheel in perfect offset to suit the x series.

As for a big brake kit I will not be doing it as I will be running 14 inch wheels on the road and this will not change (bigger sidewall makes for a softer ride on the road). When I move to a track car then I may look at bigger brakes but until then it will not happen.

Damn stupid Ross pistons did not have enough meat in them to machine it in. We were actually going for a really different 'pintle' type shape but the sacrificial Ross piston told us we were dreaming. I said it to my mate Ross today - My choice of pistons is going to bite me on this build. It was the one area that skimped a bit. I had them so I used them and in reality they are still a good forged piston - just that there are better options now.

Even on a dream engine money plays a part, I know that feeling.

At least you know there is still improvement in the engine's performance, if something was to happen to the pistons(god forbid it did happen and I hope it doesn't) you can always go the dish setup later.

These figures are @ 28" with manifold attached and the biggest bellmouth the flow bench operator had. He said the bellmouth he made wasn't big enough and the high lift figures were probably 8-10cfm more in reality. Old Joe (flowbench operator) is well in his 60's and has been playing on flow benches for a very long time so I respect what he says.

 

100 61.80

200 120.25

300 171.15

400 208.75

500 225.45

Bit of back story on Joe as I have had a bit to do with him and I worked with his brother Jim. Joe and Jim have been into Fords and drag racing since back when there was a drag strip at surfer paradise. Jim has now retired from being the best blacksmith for 30 years in a blacksmith shop that has been operating for 150 years. Jim now rebuilds magneto's in his retirement and is the best at it full stop. Joe is just as good as his brother but does everything from flow bench to rebuilds, he problem solves everything from boats to drag cars to circuit racers and everything in between. Joe know what he is talking about, he is old school wont suffer fools and tells you how it is.

On Joe's flow bench my cylinder head (about 2 grands worth) with no manifold attached made peak 215 cfm@550. My head is still very budget compared to Thor's head, plus Thor's flow figures are with manifold attached so head only is going to be WAY more than above.

http://www.wheelsbymbmotoring.com/product.php?wheel=Old%20School&finish=Gunmetal%20Machined%20Lip

Going to have to say it in public but I am really not a fan of that design of wheel. Just something about them that doesn't float my boat. Reminds me of the old dragway 4 and 5 spoke wheels that were all round in the spoke, never liked them either.

Found a pic of the 5 spoke dragway mags. I know it's not exactly the same as the link above but it just doesn't do anything for me

When it comes down to it - I love these engines and  I am addicted. But it doesn't matter it's a crossflow so the universe forgives me and you if you love them too

fixed

Hey dude what happened to the quench area in the piston? Or is this one of those go against the general thinking things like most of the setup?

 went into the methodical (yes sly - very anal) way I build them and that sorted the nerves.

Fixed. Sorry but it's not slightly anal, but I don't see it as a bad thing. You know everything has been done the same way every time and it has been done right every time. Yes I do know how much time has gone into this engine, but the results will show.

My cylinder head had about 2 grands worth of work in it(thank christ I was very lucky not to have to pay for all of it as it was already worked) I would hate to see the bill for one like yours.

I may actually be ready by Feb as I'm getting a bit done, all the wiring will be done by the end of the week along with front suspension and hopefully the thermos mounted to the rad. Fuel system is done, throttle cable arrived and I just need to make up a plate and the coilover mounts will be done. Getting through that list pretty quick now.

I have seen that crank and pictures don't so it justice, it is a thing of beauty. Bet there wasn't much sleep the night the crank was put to bed

Looks like I best be pulling my finger out to get my shit done in time. And I really really want to see this thing run.

Yeah after reading my notes on relay's again I get what your saying about the trigger only. I was thing would need to feed power through the board not just the trigger. Probably make for a nicer install to with rhe board triggering the second relay.

I wasnt to concerned about my original 60amp alternator as its been checked and has a new bearing in it. I have zero power option so only factory stuff to draw current will be lights(wont be driving much at night anyway) speedo, tacho, radio and heater fan. The stuff I am adding like gauges and fuel pump only draw less than 10amp total between all of them.

But will go and have a chat to the local sparky as he's pretty good with older stuff so will see what he's got.

If I have to spend money on boards and extra relays I might as well buy a bigger alternator and not have to worry about any of this. I was hoping it would just be an easy fix but the more I look into it the, the better and easier the new alternator is sounds. Ah well there goes another couple hundred bucks

I don't have any tool to measure the torque difference other then my bare hands. I can run one of my pumps up on the test bench with one hand on the drill with my modified std volume pumps. No chance doing the same with a high volume pump. It really is that bad.

Yeah I found the same thing although I had to use my bear hands instead.

If your controller can't handle the amps, just relay it!

Isn't the blue thing on the board in the pic a relay? Plus is there a point to having the first relay to turn on the first fan, then another relay before the board in the pic, then the last relay to turn on the second fan? My original idea of using the RC circuit was to keep the setup simple as I would buy a resistor and capacitor at specific values to give a specific time delay, once the capacitor is "full" it sends current to the second relay, I don't need displays or adjustability just to know how long it will take for the capacitor to "fill"

Thanks for all the reply's, I know pretty much nothing about the technical side of wiring. So all these ideas help me to learn more, keep them coming.

http://www.godeal.com.ar/p/diy-ne555-monostable-switch-time-delay-circuit-module-red-12v-152890

 

Something like this.

 

Trigger the circuit of the contacts of the first fan relay.

I realise that the RC circuit isn't the newest idea but it's simple as from what I can tell cheap. I do like the digital idea but one thing it says in the above link is says "Can control 220V /1A and below devices". If the fan is going to draw 40 amp on initial startup and 15ish amp continuous will this digital controller be able to cope with that sort of amp draw?

Or you could go the way i have gone and run 2 separate temp switches in the water, 1 turns on at 85 degrees, off at 80. The other turns on at 90 and off at 85. All i have done is run them to 2 separate relays and then powered each fan from there. Cost about $40 a switch.

I would rather have both fans come on a one temperature above the opening temp of my thermostat so that the thermostat isn't always opening and closing. I am using this Tridon switch to trigger the thermo fans

One of these will do it http://m.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Davies-Craig-Digital-Thermatic-Fan-Switch/374278



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I would rather trigger the fans from direct water temp as I will be circuit racing not sure how both heat soak and constant high speed air flow would effect the probe in the radiator fins.

So I have been learning about time delay RC circuits trying to sort a setup out for wiring up my EL thermo fans.  Basically want I want to do is run the first fan off the first relay then have a time delay device in between the 1st and 2nd relay's so the 2nd relay is triggered say 10-20 seconds after the first relay is energised. I can work out how long the delay is if I know the resistor rating and the capacitor rating but I don't know if this sort of relay is even a time delay setup/RC circuit  https://www.autoelec.com.au/ssl/public_autoelec/store_v4/product_detail.asp?id=1859&cat=28  and whether it will work as the 2nd relay let alone know how to calculate the delay time if it does that function.

If the above relay isnt what I am after is there a relay out there that has the time delay built in or am I going to have to go to Jaycar and buy a board, resistors and capacitor and make it myself. The thing I am concerned about is from what I have read each fan pulls around 40 amp on startup and run at around 15amp once running. So the time delay system will need to withstand the 40amp pull on start up for the second fan.

Please don't tell me to just upgrade my alternator.

You can actually get them in 17x10 in -27 to +3 offset, they machine them to suit the offset required. Here is the Ebay add from one seller, I have seen other seller off ebay selling the same as most are the OS Formula brand.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/17-BLANK-OS-FORMULA-MESH-ALLOY-WHEELS-suit-MOST-OLD-SCHOOL-CARS-FORD-HOLDEN-/221827184399?hash=item33a5ee370f:g:s6sAAOSw9r1V8meN

What about eb or el gt wheels? At least you will know they are decent quality. What sort of tyres are you running Falken Azenis, Hankook Ventus etc?

Yeah those rims are quite expensive and can be hard to find a decent set.

As for the tyres I was going to try Federal RS-RR semi slicks first, by no means the best tyre I know but at $165 for a 255 40 17 tyre(smaller sizes are cheaper) I can put up with their short comings. Semi slicks seem to be in 2 groups, the expense $400/tyre group that are really good and grip like shit but wear out really fast great for people into serious motorsport trying to win championships. The second group is up to around $250 a tyre, these last longer than the first group but also don't grip as much great for people like me out to have a bit of fun. I will probably end up with a decent set on the front and some thing like the federals on the rear.

This is a pic of the federal RS-RR

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-FALCON-TERRITORY-MUSTANG-TOYOTA-BULLITT-MAG-WHEELS-AND-GT-RADIAL-TYRES-/281891463402?hash=item41a20a60ea:g:7mgAAOSw9N1Vyqta

Those wheels require spacers which I don't think are allowed in racing and I would never run spacers anyway.

I have found some that would fit the bill but still can't afford then for a while

This set is 17x7 in +6 offset and are $880 for a set. Not my most favorite of designs but I do love true minilites and these are close enough. These rims are advertised as having a load rating of 890kg which is really good, but I really do need an 8 inch rim for the rear though so that is a pretty big negative.

Again these aren't my most favourite design but a huge plus is I can get 0 offset in 17x8 and a -15 in a 17x9 so it would give a really tough stance and deep dish. Only problem is a set of 17x8 and 17x9 are $1450 but at least I can drive and pick these up. A set of 17x7 +10 and 17x8+0 are only $1350. The centres come in gold, charcoal and black colours

Not doing serious racing just hill climb, street sprints and time trial type events ie one car on the track at one time.

I know all about proper racing wheels but cant afford 3 grand for proper ones. And as far as I know there arent any 17 inch steel wheels that fit an x series without mods. And yes it has to be 17 inch as R spec tyres are very expensive if available at all in decent widths under 17 inch. And as far as tyres go I can see 3-4 tyre changes in the next 18 months, again not flushed with cash and racing is just for fun not championships.

Both are +6 offset in a 17x8 rim size sold as suit pre au. For $300 you cant really go wrong unless they are going to break and cause more damage than the are worth/cost

Dont care about looks as they are going to be used for only for racing, the only thing I care about is if the rim is prone to failures. I do agree with you on the looks pity the top set have so much gutter rash on the other rims otherwise I would just be looking at them

Anyone know if either of these 2 Advanti racing rims are any good? Are they prone to cracking like the CSA prowlers? Both are same price but bottom set is in much better condition and has more tread on tyres. The top set has a fair bit of gutter rash on the other rims.

I'm running these filters http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/knn-ps-3001/overview/ They are Pro series K&N but internally they are the same as the standard K&N filter with the nut on the outside, except these are half the price. If you bought 10 right now with the exchange rate it is less than $20 per filter which is still cheaper than buying a K&N filter here is OZ.

Crazy2287 has cut up a Ryco filter and had a look inside (can't remember if it was on here or old site) and the Ryco is a good filter. I have always used Ryco filters on my daily drivers and still do, but on my performance engine I wanted a performance filter. No idea if the K&N is better or will even make a difference compared to a Ryco but I guess it's just peace of mind really.