wagoon

People on this site are legends.

Thanks, I do try.

If that's the case were all fucked

XF001 we all had to start somewhere but yes this place is full of very helpful people that won't bullshit to you and will give the advice you need to here whether it's the advice your ready for or wanting to hear well that's a different matter. Everyone means well but a lot is lost in internet translation.

yeah base models with no air con or steer,the xe was a tad lighter than the xd,it had a plastic fuel tank instead of the metal one ect....

Yeah that's my car. No A/C manual steer and manual box. The leaf springs would add a bit of weight over the xe's watts link as well. All the small amounts add up pretty quick.

Cool thanks guys, I thought that I wouldn't need to do anything with them but wanted to confirm.

If I remember correctly the owner manual for my xe was around 1330kg's for a base model xe with a 6, and I know Jason (TF250) scaled his TF cortina and it was something like 1210kgs.

So I have just about finished wiring my car and as I was tidying the wires I noticed I had forgotten one of the original wiring loom connecters. The engine in the pic is the old engine that is out of the car but since it's the original engine for the car I though it would explain what I'm after a bit more.

The connector in the car's wiring loom joins the brown connector in the foreground of the pic. Then as can be seen both wires go to the coil red to pos and green to neg.

The wire that also come out of the coil travel around to the dizzy here

So what I would like to know is do I need to connect any wires to the connector in the car's original wiring loom that would have joined to the brown connector in the first pic. At the moment I have no plans to connect anything to either the red or green wire unless there is something else in the car that originally needed to receive the signal from those wires?

Ok cool. Since your close enough to me I have an XF ute sitting in my yard that you are welcome to if you need, I can send particular pics if you like. I do have the plastic trim that is under the dash that goes under the steering column as well as a glovebox if you need one. Let me know what you need and I can see if I have it.

I really don't envy your task mate, there is a lot of stuff there you would have to ask WTF does it do.

Is this your current everyday driver? Do you plan on it being a weekend car or everyday driver? Reason I ask this is because if you plan on driving it everyday you really need to rip all that shit out asap as it will probably cause issues over the longer term. If it's a weekender you can get away with leaving it in there for a bit longer and pulling it out piece by piece. The scary thing about the pic of the wiring in post #16 on the first page is you would have to assume that that is the level of effort put into the rest of the wiring on the car which even by my crappy standards is bad and dangerous.

Oh didn't realise how pissy the standard ones are.

 +1

That stupid heater box... About 2.7 seconds after I found out my core was leaking, I threw it as far as I could. Installed a boat engine bay blower fan and an auto trans cooler as a heater core, it actually worked!

 

18mm bolts... Not so much about too much strength but I just have bad memories of accessing things in the engine bay, making things bigger just cramps it all up a bit more that's all.

As for 18mm bolt the engine mount is almost the exact same size as the factory falcon mount. Obviously the cortina mount is different to the falcon mount but only in the lower half. The top half which attaches to the block is the widest part of the mount.

Its not to hard to make your own mounts as the tuff mount brand prove as they are a really basic design.

18mm is a bit of overkill really

Yes it is, just how I like it. I would rather the extra couple of hundred grams in weight for the thicker bolts and thicker bushes for the knowledge that they will never ever need looking at again.

I just learnt plenty in the above posts.

So in your opinion XPT the xr6t cooler would be no good for a mild setup? I know they are not perfect but thought that it would be ok to use as a cooler for a reliable mild street crossflow setup.

At the moment it is running 3 thermos and an electric water pump for cooling as well as the methanol and dry ice set up PRO250. I have read on other builds that people are running intercoolers. Is this a better option than the methanol and dry ice? Bear in mind that I want a reliable street car that won't cause me grief. From what I have been able to find out about the history of this car, the existing system has been nothing but trouble.

 

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It really sounds like they went about the built backwards. Its sounds like they either put the stuff in the car just so they could say they have a dry ice cooler or meth injection. Or the scarier reason was the meth injection and dry ice setup was their fix for the problem that were arising from running the car. Either way none of that shit is needed unless you are really pushing the boundaries of performance in a full drag setup, even then there are much better ways to go about things.

If you ran an xr6 turbo intercooler (small in size so doesn't have to fill the entire front of the car, black in colour for the stealth look) from a BA falcon you could do away with the meth injection, dry ice cooler (sorry but that is not a very efficient dry ice cooler as pointed out above) and one thermo (hoping there is a twin thermo on engine side and one on front side of radiator) That for a start will get rid of a bit of shit sitting in your bay.

I would pull the engine from the bay and inspect that, and while the engine is out you can have a really good look around the bay and see whats there and what is really needed as I'm guess half the shit in the bay is either pointless or can be done much better with far less shit sitting in the bay. As a bonus you can sell all the worthless shit and get some cash for anything that does need doing.

Lastly the computer and ignition are really important items in an injected turbo engine so if that is standard that maybe one of the biggest issues with the way the car ran.

Yeah agree with XPT the specs should see a higher output although it may have been a safe tune to save the 5 speed.

275/60/15 is a 28 inch diameter tyre and is the exact same size as 235/70/15, 225/70/15 is 27.4 inch diameter tyre, 225/60/15 is 25.6 inch tyre. I use this tyre calculator all the time when I'm working stuff out http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp

A 28 inch tyre with 3.27 diff gears works out to be somewhere between 2.77 and 2.92 diff gears(closer to 2.77) with 225/60/15 tyres.

I got these pics here clicking on the pic, then when it's just a single pic on your screen look to the right for 4 boxes. Left click on the bottom box that has IMG next to it then come across to oz falcon and right click then paste the link. Only the link will show up in your reply box but when you post it will show as a pic

Cheers mate. I'll be making a Cortina version of the 'Ryno' XF engine mounts.

I think these cortina mounts may be more popular than the Ryno mounts

The Ryno ones use spring shackle rubbers right?

Yeah they were landcruiser 60 series shackle bushes but only cause that's what was around, you could use a smaller size bush as the 18mm high tensile bolts can be a pain to source as 18mm bolts aren't all that common.

Ando is there enough room to get at the bolt from underneath? Could you use the cylinder than holds the "rubbers" then weld on a solid block then drill and tap the block underneath for that hidden bolt look? Pair of 1/2 inch bolts should hold it down as it might strip the thread if only one bolt is used due to the torque.

i run 225-60-15 allround,when i cruise the street im in top gear at 30kph,it changes so fast,but when you foot it she really bucks,when i do my crossy rebuild i will be going for 3.7 or 3.9 possibly 4.11 as it will be a drag only ,on my street driven car i might go back to 3.08 or 2.92.

If you wanted to continue to run your current tyre size you could get a used pair of tyres in 225/70/15 size (it's a small 4x4 tyre and should easily be able to get it from a wrecker, ebay has then new for around $100 per tyre), they would be close to equivalent to changing your diff gears to 2.92. If you got a pair of 245/60/15 (will be harder to find than the above 225/70 size) it would be just about the same as changing the diff ratio to 3.08. Doing this would give you an idea of which one you wanted to go without the hassle of changing diff gears and not liking them again.

Looks like plenty of money has been spent on the outside of the engine, but sounds like they were short cutting the inside of the engine. Depending on how far/much power you want from the car is how far you "need" to go. But since the head needs to come off anyway as either it's a valve or rings by all accounts you might as well flip the engine and pull a bearing for inspection. If you have limited info on what actually happened/what caused the issue/what the actual symptoms were your best to have a poke around and inspect what's there then make you decisions on what to do based on what you find.

I just took the car for a drive to brizzy and back and 3.27's are just bearable ,sitting on about 2800rpm at 110kph

What rear tyre size do you have?

Thats interesting cause the reason I asked is when I was looking for the amp draw I found this off the MSD tech forum https://www.msdignition.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22151 Says that for a 4 cylinder the figure is 1.5 amps per 1000rpm's. I have also read that it is 0.7amps per 1000rpm for a V8 so I didn't know what would be relevant for a 6, but I have never seen anything mentioned about compression related draw.

Using the wires direct from dizzy into the new harness I have made for the car as I have installed a complete seperate fuse box for all the new stuff I have installed. So only fused in new box hence the need to know the fuse size. Makes it easier as I havent had to splice or cut original wires execpt for the original battery wires.

15amp on main power sounds the goods. I wonder if the msd has different power requirements for 6 and 8 cylinder engines??

It is very easy to make your own throttle bracket for a four barrel using factory bits. I'm sure Ryan posted up pics of his bracket on his thread.

Dont think I did post anything on my bracket that I made. I still have to make the bracket for the second "saftey" spring.

Started with this factory bracket I removed from an xf engine.

As you can see it lines up with the throttle pickup on the carby pretty well. Not much room in there

And this is the bracket I came up with. Just cut off the end bent up a bit of 1mm sheet I had lying around putting bends in it to increase the strength, and used the screw in the manifold to anchor the bent arm. Spot welded the lower bent arm onto the factory bracket then just a quick fill with the welder around the sides to make it look a bit neater. Sprayed it with engine enamel satin balck so hopefully it won't mark or scratch as much. took me less than 30 minutes to make it

Ok cool. I did read about the amp draw per 1000rpm but read conflicting figures but was never more than 2amps per 1000rpm for the 6al2 and I wont be revving past 6500 let alone 7000 so a 20amp should be enough

Thought this was relevant to the topic.

Im hooking up my msd 6al2 and Im not sure if I need to put a fuse on either of the power wires.

One wire runs direct to battery and the other wire is a 12v ignition that gets hooked into the red wire that runs to dizzy. So has anyone put fuses in either or both of the lines and if so what size. The msd install instructions mention nothing at all about fuses.