wagoon

I don't believe half the rubbish I've been told about this car. It is satans bastard child and shall be treated as such when I get around to pulling it down.

 

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That's the right attitude and mind set to have. Expect the worst until proven otherwise.

 

As far as the 255rwkw I'm thinking the car would have needed to be just about running on meth not just a spray. The mix of meth to fuel would have had to be pretty high so as to keep the intake temps down at 14psi (or you could use the little magical black switch BHAHAHAHAHA) . When she said she ran out of fuel it was more likely ran out of meth which would have caused all sorts of problems literally.

 

Best thing to do is sit down and make a plan of what you want from the car so you know how far your going to go with it. This sort of project could get out of hand pretty damn quick as everything would be better if it was done again. But if you don't need it done again and it's ok to use then that will save time and money, no point in wasting cash just to redo something.

 

Once I get my car on the road I would be happy to lend a hand if you need/want it.

Winner winner chicken dinner!!!

Changed the oil pressure switch before I left for work this morning, pulled over and checked twice on the way to work as well as at work and no oil leak. Well no major oil leak anyway, just the usual stuff. Thank you SLO. I honestly didnt think the oil switch let go like that, ah well just one more thing to put on the learned from ozfalcon list although its becoming more of a manual than a list.

 

Sly I like that idea with the sump bolts as I know my sump gasket had been weeping ever since I bought the car. So I will get under the car on the weekend and check for loose bolts and try that. Although I will probably start with pliers first as if I use vice grips Im likely to flatten the thread completely.

I did wonder about the oil pressure switch but didnt think they went bad like that, although with most of the oil being on the passenger side it makes sense. If that's all it is then I have spares of them and I will just replace it. I don't really have the cash to spend on the engine change now so if I can get away with a cheap fix I will definitely go that way. Might grab a spare one and change it in my lunch break at work and see if that helps. 

Thanks SLO

 

Im guessing my wagon has decided to let a rear main seal go. It has been using about 1 litre of oil per 5000kms for the last 3 services (5k services) but got home tonight and noticed a trail of oil on the driveway had a look underneath and found the above. There is oil dripping from the rear of the sump, the steering arm the bell housing, gearbox crossmember and the front seat support rail under the car lets just say its everywhere. So am I right in thinking that would be a rear main seal? Cant see any oil film above the sump and the oil film is only halfway up the gearbox.

 

Has anyone had this happen and still drove their car without ceasing their engine if you continued to top up the oil? I'm worried that even if I keep the oil up to the engine(leak looks bad but it's not like it's dropping a litre of oil.....yet) the seal might completely let go and drop all the oil out at once and I will cease the engine as I drive a lot of highway and won't be able to stop the engine fast enough. I ask this stupid question because I do have a spare engine to put in the car but the clutch in my wagon is nearly gone so I thought I would change the clutch while I had the engine out. But this will require time to get the flywheel machined and then I will need to gather parts like clutch and gaskets etc for the engine swap. Even if I don't do the clutch right now I still need to drive my car 33km's one way to get to work, so I would be driving it for probably week and a half before I had the chance to do the engine swap anyway.

 

Just had a thought, could it be the sump gasket instead of the rear main? Bit hard to get under tonight to have a look but it is definitely coming from the rear of the engine and there was no oil smoke on the exhaust

 

 

I have posted this in my crappy wagon build thread but thought it would get seen more in here. Mods please let me know if I need to remove one of them as I will remove the one in my build thread.

 

Something just doesnt add up with all the info putting aside the incorrect info. I mean 50 grand spent on the car, where? I know turbo setups arent cheap but unless that 50 grand includes a 25 grand spray job I just cant see it. Also Mike Vine setup that has 255rwkw with no intercooler and only meth injection?!?

And if that wiring was done by someone with OCD I best get myself checked. I consider the wiring I did on my sedan messy but its a pro job compared to the pics.

 

Not trying to be mean and by no means putting the car down as I think its a great platform to work from as it looks like there wont be many expensive things you need to buy for it. Just needs a decent tidy up. Keen to see what you can make out of the car actually.

Yeah instead of buying the adaptor I took the flex line from diff to body from the xe and used that on the e series diff.

The hard lines on the xe drum diff fit both the flex line going into the caliper and the block where the breather is. The block where the breather is was removed from the xe diff.

Cost me nothing at all and all threads wound in just fine.

 

Sorry realised I didnt explain it better before

Editted to remove this dribble and replaced by hopefully easier to understand dribble in my below response.

I knew at that very moment and thought to myself "I really am failing at life"

Nah dude you were being more environmentally responsible than the prius owner as you were trying to conserve fuel that's why the prius drove away from you. So you have the moral win over the prius owner, on top of you saving fuel they have many batteries and electrical components that were made in china then shipped to butt-fuck-nowhere to be assembled to make the pussbox that is the pruis. That requires more carbon's be pumped into the atmosphere than your 30 year old gas guzzler which is well beyond carbon neutral by now.

 

A win is a win and it doesn't matter by how much, all that matter's is that YOU WON.

Could the ecu be faulty as in like on a circuit overtime it breaks down sort of thing?

Update:

For those that don't read my build thread I thought I would update this thread so hopefully someone gets use out of the outcome.

Thanks to Hendrixhc for the idea on using a time delay board as that's the way I went.

 

So this pic shows the delay board I bought off Ebay for $7, it's not exactly the one I wanted but it was what was available for fast delivery at the time. This board has 2 timed cycles and depending on how you wire it up is how it works, I have wired it so I get a delay time(I have set it for a 15 second delay to start) then after the delay cycle the board has a powered cycle and continues on like this as long as power is supplied . Once the thermatic switch is turned off when it reaches it's listed lower temp the relay board is reset and will start with the delay cycle once power is returned. So I have set it up to work for 15 second delay then 999 second powered cycle(maximum time allowed on the board, just over 16 minutes 35 seconds)

 

To house the delay board I went to Jaycar and bought a universal housing. There are a few options including metal and plastic housing, the one I bought was a water proof plastic housing. The delay board needed a slight adjusting on one of the holes to make it mount but I only mounted the board on 2 mounts, the board doesn't move at all with just the 2 mounts attached. The housing comes in a grey colour that can be seen in the first pic around the delay board, I just painted the housing with a satin black spray can with no sanding or anything. The housing cost me less than $20 and is completely waterproof has lots of mounting options and the cover of the houing can be removed with the base left in place as seen in the above picture.

 

This is the non programmable 6al2 part number 6421

 

This is the programmable 6al2 part number 6530

 

This is a 6al part number 6425

 

I almost bought a non programmable 6al2 when I was looking for one. Make sure you ask who ever is selling it the part number on the front of the unit, as you can see they all have the part number on the front. Yes the programmable 6al2 with part number 6530 is the best and only one to buy if your going to buy any of them.

If I remember correctly aren't you suppose to use kero as the cutting/cooling fluid for working on alloy heads?

 

I used a re coil kit on my weber carby where the airfilter housing bolts to, no drama at all and as Thom said they are stronger than before.

+2 on both the above. For a skid pig you might as well set it up for top end not low down so a 350 is just not going to cut it

Isnt there a mob in the US that sell upper and lower control arms for mustangs and early falcons, that suit the the shelby drop mod? Or am i just talking crap? lol it was a long time ago i remember seeing them.

You are correct, the only real issue with them is cost

Here's a link to the coil

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/msd-8253

Give them space boys...... Fight Fight Fight Fight Fight.... as the crowd grows.

Weren't a lot of the pillow block clevelands prone to core shift more than earlier blocks?

Thanks for that Tpak

Should be able to retrofit all the bits into the old housing. I shoved 25 spline axles and centre into an XH housing that started out as 28 spline 4-pin, no probs.

Might be a silly question but why wouldnt you just put an e series diff in instead of finding 28 spline axles ect to fit inside a 25 spline housing.

The housings look identical as far as I can tell so what is the advantage in doing to 28 spline into 25 spline housing mod?

i looked ages ago and couldnt find anything thats why i was asking.

Search lokka on youtube to see a heap of video's about installs and ticking issues related to it. 4wd systems lokka has been around for nearly 10 years at least so plenty of info on it around(popular with e series and vr/vs commo owners) harrop true trac is nearly $1200 without install costs and is a newer item on the market so info is pretty limited on actual operation.

Very interested in this mod if you care to share how you went about it.

Did you have/buy a known good VN alternator?

Has it been checked for good operation?

What size XF alternator did you start with?

Did you have to modify the body of the XF alternator at all?

Don't true track make one?

Technically no, eaton dont make a centre to suit either e or x series diff. Harrop have independantly developed an eaton true trac centre that fits borg warner 78 series diffs(EB11 to AU falcon as well as vl turbo diffs) but it is only available through harrop, if you look at overseas sites none of them list centres to suit 78 series borg warner diff.

I've looked at these as an alternative and yes they do make them for 0575 and 0578 diffs. You use an open centre carrier (not lsd) and they apparently work well. You just need to adjust your driving style a bit due to the slightly more harsh way they come in and release when compared to a cone lsd. Might induce a bit of initial understeer then power oversteer but never driven one. Just read a lot of opinions and overall seem good.

As far as Im aware 4wd systems only make a lokka(lokka is the brand that 4wd systems make which suits 4x4 as well as borg warner diffs) centre to suit 28 spline axles only therefore it only suits e series falcon and vl turbo diffs.

78 series borg warner diff is 28 spline diff found in every single falcon from eb11 to ef falcon( AU is same diff but different offset). So everthing that I said above is relevant to 78 series 28 spline axle diff.

The only legal locker is 4wd systems or harrop true trac. They both operate as a full locker when power applied and operate as open diff when no power applied.

All other options are either lsd or version of a spool.

Depends what you mean by lokka.

If your after a device that locks the axles under torque load but unlocks while you turn corners(operates like an open centre diff when cornering with no throttle) so therefore completely legal modification the parts you after is made by 4wd systems australia or harrop eaton true-trac. They act as a full locked centre when torque is applied with no clutches and therefore no slipping or rebuilding of clutches in the centre like in an lsd, but operate like an open centre diff when off throttle and going around corners.

If your after an lsd the options are Kaaz or factory lsd.

Then you have full spool or mini spool produce by several companies.

These are the only options available for an e series 28 spline axle diff.

None of the above options other than factory lsd fit 25 spline axle diff found standard in all x series diffs.