wagoon

Crazy thanks for that info it very helpful

I dont mean to bring this conversation back to being serious cause we have gone well away from the OP's original topic but, I had a stand up argument near punch on with a mate about which is better carby or fuel injection. Both sides were valid and made sense and were correct from the direction we were coming from which. I wont get into each argument here ( held over for another topic that can be destroyed by discussion) cause it was 15 year ago and I couldn't give a shit anymore but I think this is where greg is coming from, context is everything.

I like torque cause torque is pull and a good pull feels grouse

Pm sent to both

So I am in need of some hypereutectic pistons and since ACL dont make them any more and no body has them in stock Im wondering if anybody has bought some recently. I am looking for something the same quality as ACL race series in 40thou over with 22-25cc dish so if anybody knows where I can get my hands on a set it would be greatly appreciated. Yes I know forged pistons are available but the cost is stupid and I dont have that much money.

As Ando said Engine Enginering are good and located pretty central in Rocklea. My work has used them before with good results and yes I was about to get my whole engine done with them until the gods blessed my with a roller cammed crossy. Their prices are quite good for parts supply as well. I am still going to use them this week hopefully for machining and balancing work.

What area of brisbane you in?

Mate no worries, life would be boring if you knew everything

Lockers are dangerous on the road, but again you have to drive knowing what you have. That being said the Lokka is a brand name of an auto locker which must be placed into an open centre diff. The diff acts as an open diff until a certain amount of torque is applied to the diff centre then it locks. There for it is completely legal, a lot of four wheel drives have these in them.

I will be going a lokka in my car. They can a little noisey but only at slow speed when turning ie carpark. They can be smooth in operation if you adjust to driving with them.

XFChris yes the 2 1/2 inch will work much better thats why everybody is saying it, but if you have access to 2 1/4 for now it will improve over standard. Then when you go your cam change upsize your exhaust then. I remember someone on hear saying that the hotdog before the muffler does provide a nice note. So put the hotdog infront on the 2 1/4 and if you do or dont like it you will know how to setup your 2 1/2inch. win win

I did this research a little while ago. Everything that everybody has been said above is the info I found.

For the cost of the toyota you could have multiple T5's and they are just about the same strength. The T5Z is the stronger T5 to use but they can be expensive as they are out of recent falcons and are known to be better so people charge. Personally I think the T56 is the one to get if you have to buy a box. I have a step by step write up of someone putting a holden T56 into an xb with a clevo, recons it cost him $5 grand to have in the car including buying the box. I cant post it as it is 4 pages long(but I will send it if anyone wants it)

^^ I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy^^   Props to Ando for the find and heads up, you are to kind.

I remember seeing a black coupe that had been raised on a donor chassis. I cant remember which magazines it was in but it was in a few

I looked into this with an ef wagon i had. The limit was around 2inches of lift before you start having trouble and need custom everything. The country pack had raised spring which were around 1inch higher than standard I was led to believe . Wheel articulation in the rear will be the killer. As one wheel drops into a rut the other is going to be shoved up into the guard and with running bigger tyres it will rub. If you stay a narrower tyre it will help but trying to find a good tyre in a 225 width and 30inch diameter may be a challange.

I will also add that northern brake were the only company out of 14 I contacted that had the clutch in stock. They did admitted they were suprised they had it in stock though.

All up $440 including post to qld. I thought I would give them a try after I searched around forums for people that had bought exedy clutches and their name kept popping up with good feedback.

So I have just spent the day getting quotes from more than a dozen places for an exedy cushion button clutch for a crossflow. I rang all my local suppliers and even ones closer to brisbane which is about 50kms away. In the end Northern brake and clutch in melbourne was the cheapest including post and its to my door. The next best price was $60 more if you include the fuel I would use to go and pick it up. The most expensive was $260 more expensive, this is for the same part number

From everything I have learnt from this site the main thing is budget. This will determine the level of power your engine produces and the level of upgrades other things like diff, brakes, transmission will require.

To start you could put on extractors and larger exhaust, change diff gears and get a better ignition system. From there the sky and depth of your budget is the limit.

Another key factor will be what the car will actually be used for, as in 50% race 50% cruise or 85% cruise 15% race. Be honest here and and you will not be disappointed, no need to have a 10 second drag car that never sees the track, it will overheat and will be a pig to drive on the street.

I retract my previous comment about Ando's comparison test for a more mild engine. Damn 334hp at 6000rpm is nothing near mild. Well done Ando, would be interesting to see what your serious engine produces.

A very general rule that I have seen work is longer primaries for hp and longer secondaries for torque, but the diameter of pipe is different for each setup. If you were to build an optimal setup for any crossflow wether it be 631 or 621 the size and lenght of pipe in each section should be different for each design anyway. But the test that Ando proposes would very helpful for someone wanting to buy off the shelf setup for a more mild engine.

As we all know it is what YOUR technical guru is comfortable with will produce the best results instead of mixing and matching different ideas. There is lots of fun ways to skin a cat

Is it possible to get another cheap set of extractors cut the mounting plate off then make two different sets with a flange at the collector so the can be changed easy?

Noobus are the pipe diameters the same for both sets? Did the exhaust design change at all when the pacemakers were put on?

Matt, thanks for that

Edited because I cant spell

Matt do you think that the way a roller cam works, the primaries should stay on the smaller side? The reason I ask is because my previous statment was based on a standard large cammed engines where the extra volume in the primaries seemed to work where as Im now wondering if a roller cam will need more scavenging to draw out all the gas as the valve will be open longer?

I base my 1 3/4 idea on only what I have seen others use and the results. I am no techincal guru but I ask alot of questions to try and expand my knowledge, my brother use to throw stuff at me when I asked too many questions. The 1 3/4 is mainly based on v8 setups where the setup of the engine has passed a certain level of performance and the change to larger primaries has made a difference. I think this engines setup especially with the roller cam warrants the larger priamaries.