wagoon

How I understand the lifters is that there are 3 types of hydraulic lifters:

standard hydraulic lifters which as Sly said is in a standard engine and are the ones in the add

anti-pump hydralic lifters which are used in a higher revving engine 

hydraulic roller lifters which can only be used with a hydraulic roller cam shaft.

The guards I just took off my xe wagon had the rusted bolts from guard to bumper as Rev said. Bolt would just spin when I tried undoing it so I hit the bolt with a lot of crc held the bolt above the nut with vice grips and then turned the nut. Then applied more crc and repeat. I think it took about 3 hours to get 4 bolts out. Could also apply a small amount of heat to just the nut then spray crc/wd40 if the nut wont come loose.

You could try stuff called dye penetrant. It is a 3 step process that you spray onto the metal surface and it shows up cracks and holes. It will tell you if its a crack or a hole. It is only spray paint essentially so it will not affect the metal, all you need to do is clean the surface the best you can. Do this before you drill the wheel as if its a crack drilling will not help.

XC is right on drilling the hole as you are enlarging the hole out to clean structural metal and being a round hole "should" stop any cracking. But keep the hole the smallest you can as the air pressure inside a tyre is high and going over bumps only raises that pressure as the tyre is pushed it. If you do drill the hole patching the hole with metal putty may not hold the pressure.

Keeping it as a spare is probably the best idea if you are only going to patch it and not get it welded. Don't really want to mess with wheels and tyre cause when they let go it will most likely be a the worst time possible.

If the tyre(rim actually as you have found out) has always leaked the you may be able to patch it up to stop the leak. If it is only something new trying the patch won't hurt but may not help in the long run.
Reason I say this is cause if the wheel has been like it for a while then it may well be just a flaw and if you patch the flaw then it wont leak anymore. If it is a new leak then the micro fracture that is causing the leak may well get bigger through heat cycles and our punishing roads.

Regardless of how long it has been leaking there is a flaw in the metal and if you hit a pothole it may fracture the wheel causing the wheel to come apart and deflate the tyre instantly which would be very bad. The wheel should be weldable but assuming its cast alloy it may not be easy to weld and may cause other issues like create new defects. Cast is a bitch to weld

Also need bushes for bottom control arms. Push x series bushes into end that attches to car. Brake lines on e series are metric x series are imperial as mentioned, so a block with one of each threads and your away.

Keep in mind any sideways forces on an lsd will kill the clutches especially factory regardless of e or x series. Options if the car is used on road is kaaz lsd which is $1200 new or lockrite lokka auto locker for $500.

thank you for the above suggestions. That's the info I needed.

Cheers Noobus. Would you weld from the front side or backside? If backside do you cut the support panel or just work around it?

The wagon I just bought has ALOT of bog shoved in the lower section of the front guards, so much so the car was knocked back for roady on it as it could be seen very easy. So I have cut out the bog and I have spare guards (XF so can't just swap) that I can cut up to repair the sections. What I would like to know is how much of the guard in the first pic do I cut? I have cut the guard where the paint went from the black lower to the solid colour( I have added the 2nd pic just for reference) Do I need to cut out more of the guard? There is no more rust or bog but the steel around the holes quite thin. Is there a spot that is easier to weld than where I have cut the guard? My main concern is shrinkage after welding making the guard to short and not fitting. I will be treating the rust on the support panel as well be fore welding. Cheers Ryan

Which one? Haha I'm picking up a steel tailshaft today for my sedan(be end of year before sedan is running) Wagon will be registered in a month or two

P.S  Just thinking,are the sedan shafts steel or alloy

Tailshafts come in both alloy and steel for sedan as well as wagon.

Just thinking out loud, it would have to be one of the only other places water can get in.

I noticed else where you mentioned you have had the front guards off. Does the wheel arches still have the factory black body paint? Is it possible that water is running down the wall in the wheel well area?

Is there any mold showing in the hood lining, even down the bottom of the A pillar where it meets the dash?

Once the whole dash is out, is it still driveable?

I stripped an xf with a carby motor (I mention this as I don't know if injected motor is wired different). Took the entire dash out only leaving the column and fan and vent passages in the car. I didnt cut any wires I just unplugged everything, Drove it from out in the yard where I stripped it into the shed to remove the engine.

Is it getting in between the rubber and the steel? As the water comes down it might be finding a little gap between the rubber and the steel and then flowing to a point where it has rusted, only way to find out is to pull the glass.

Is the OP more likely to find a cam that bleeds off more comp in the solid range? Probably should have asked it that way first.

LJBD do you have a limitation on how lumpy you want the idle? Would you go a solid cam?

Would a solid cam bleed more comp off than the hydraulic cam? If the car is only a weekend car and you are going to have to get new lifters and upgrade to roller rockers if you up the lift on a hydraulic anyway.

No drama at all Cav. Might have a crack at getting the bushes and tack welding the old pins in place if I can save them

Rang ford spare parts again and all XH stuff is not availbale but there are some bushes in the warehouse in brisbane but no pins and no complete hinges.

There is a guy on the here doing club circuit racing with a clevland in his xe. He uses refurbed standard girlock calipers. The pads, brake lines and fluid were all upgraded but he had no problem with brakes fading or stopping. He uses QFM brake pads. I know your not racing but if it can be fine on the track it will be fine on the road

I rang 3 ford dealers around brisbane and they all said that hinges, bushes and pins are no longer available for even the XG. Does XH hinges fit the front?

Double post

Thanks for the info Cav saved my arse.

I was checking ebay and there is a someone selling just the bushes. Is it possible to knock the pin out without damaging it, install new bushes and reintall old pins? Do the pins wear or is it just rust that wears the pins? I ask cause I have been looking for refurb kits cause my car got knocked back for rego because of one of the hinges(among other things)

POR has its own rust converter works a treat. TBH that mainly looks like dirt with maybe a bit of surface rust. Use a wire brush on it then if it cleans it all away and no rust is there then use wax and grease remover ( POR has one of these as well) then apply POR paint. The POR bottle/tin should have all instructions on it mine does.