wagoon

All blocks are just about identical apart from the key feature of the 86DA block allowing for the easy installation of an EF falcon full counter weight crank. But since your only spending $5000 don't worry about EF cranks of better blocks just run with what you have especially if it's in good condition. You would need to be spending close on $15,000 on the motor to warrant the EF crank

 

Staying with carby will be much easier, cheaper and will net more horsepower especially with the amount of money you have to spend.

 

Next couple of questions will be

1. Is $5000 just on the motor or everything including gearbox, diff, brakes etc

2. Is the car auto or manual? Do you need to convert the car to your desired choice of gearbox?

3. What diff ratio do you want/have

4.What is the car going to be used for.

 

Don't focus on horsepower cause you wont be able to brag you have heaps, but what you do have is a light car compared to all the newer cars and a very torquey engine that will actually make your car fast.

Lots more details are needed to make an informed decision but I will have a guess at there will be no difference what so ever if they both need rebuilding.

Information that is needed is

1. Is the XF motor carby or injected?

2. Do you want carby or injected when your done?

3. How fast do you want to go?

4. How much money do you have to spend?

 

The main difference between the motors will be the standard compression ratio. If the XF motor is an injected motor it will most likely have slightly larger valves in the head. Apart from the valves and a couple of accessories that bolt onto the engine both engine are just about identical.

Yeah I know what you mean about RRS prices, and WTF is it with selling it cheaper to the states I do 100% agree with you that the shelby drop needs to be engineered as you have changed mounting locations which changes lots of things, even the aftermarket A arms brought in from the states will need to be engineered to make sure they meet the regulations of the car they are being put onto.

 

I do wonder how many aftermarket products are actually engineered, as although I haven't looked into it for a while there was a rather large aftermarket company that was selling all manner of parts but only 2 products where actually engineered. So when people asked is their stuff ADR approved the answer was yes, just neglected mention the fine print saying that it was only on 1% of the things they sold. Basically anything that I see for sale that is not clearly labelled as ADR approved (doesn't automotive mass produced products have to comply with ADR regulation not just one off engineering rules?) I take as non compliant and no different to the stuff I make.

Don't doubt the quality of their gear, I just think that for most of it, the price is for rich old men with toys, not for your average enthusiasts like us. You could blow 20k upwards on an old Falcon to make it handle as good as a 5k Skyline.

I'm going to have to disagree with you on this on greg, reason being is what I have achieved with my sedan. On my sedan I have coilovers in the rear which only required custom upper mounts as the coilovers mount horizontal not vertical like the shock absorbers, these custom mounts are very simple to make and wouldn't cost much to get made. Then for the front you can either run the above coilovers or a custom spring and quality shock. I think it is very reasonable to say that for $2500(will cost much less if you can or know someone that can do the fab work) you can have both front and back suspension sorted with good quality products for a good handling car on the street. A genuine street driven import will not out handle a well setup street driven falcon it's just the falcon requires fabrication, lateral thinking and modification like the shelby drop, the imports only require bolt on parts.

Thanks guys for that. I doubt the falling off quick will be an issue as the power will last longer than his current setup anyway. But that is good to know. And moving the power band down is exactly what he wants so I think we have a winner.

My carby powered landcruiser did the exact same thing where it noticably picked up after 2000 rpm, it was bog stock other than exhaust and electric dizzy even my wagon does the same thing. But the landcruiser you could feel run out of puff at 4200rpm.

 

So when comparing the Camtech 110 to the Tighe 725 they both have very similar spec and similar "size" except for the total lift where the Tighe has even more lift than the bigger Camtech 517. So is the Tighe cam better for torque because of its smaller size (less duration) but increased lift?

Have been chatting to a bloke that is interested in doing a crossflow conversion into his landcruiser 60 series and it got me thinking about camshaft configuration and specification.

Just using Camtech cams as an example:

Camtech cam with part number ending 110 : duration 264 degrees, 208@50thou, total valve lift .477, 110 LSA, RPM range 1400-5000

Camtech cam with part number ending 517: duration 274 degrees, 218@50thou, total valve lift .510, 110 LSA, RPM range 1800-5500

 

To make the most torque out of a crossflow while still having usable torque very low in the rpm range(off idle so to speak) would it be possible to:

use the 517 cam as shown above but install it 2 or 4 degrees retarded so that it has a closer rpm range to the first cam but with increased lift benefit of the 517

                                                                                                 OR

get the 110 cam made on a smaller LSA (like 108 for example) and install correctly and use the shorter LSA to boost mid range torque(does the shorter LSA sacrifice power elsewhere??)

                                                                                                 OR

just use one of the Camtech cams as supplied or even Tighe cam part number 725 : duration 268 degrees, 210@50thou, total valve lift .517, doesn't list LSA or RPM but remarks are "mid range"

 

Purpose of the landcruiser is towing/ general mild off roading (bumpy undulating tracks/sandy tracks hence low torque requirement-NO rock crawling type stuff) and daily driver. My experience with 3F carby petrol cruiser engine is it has stupid amounts of torque from idle(take off in 2nd on all but steep uphill) but started falling over at 3800rpm and was just making noise over 4200rpm. Guys wants to retain as much torque down low as possible to help move the heavy car(is approx 2150kgs) but wants it to make usable power to 5000ish rpm max. Is it possible with a crossflow?

 

 

Thanks lads thats close enough for me to work with.

A pully off a XC iron head is the perfect unit to get. Find that fit it and close the bonnet.

Would you happen to know the dimensions on that pulley?

This custom made pulley (made out of ally) is costing me nothing other than my time. Work for free get the pulley for free, so its cheaper and easier than having to search out an xc iron head pulley. Just need dimensions to replicate the xc pulley

I don't know the exact size of the waterpump pulley but I'm pretty sure it's the same size as the std harmonic balancer , so would drive 1.1 normally

Well that works out perfect cause the power steering pulley Im using is only just smaller in diameter than the standard size harmonic balancer so guess I will just stick to that size.

Thanks mate

Yeah good point about the charging. Do you know the outside diameter of the pulley you have? How did you workout your underdriven percentage?

Just wondering what diameter pulley you guys are running on your water pumps when you spin your engine to 6500rpm. I am getting a pulley made and the bloke said I can have any diameter I want within reason. I know if you go to big a pulley it can effect things like water flow at idle and charge rate of the alternator at close to idle speed

 

Current pulley being used is a 4 bolt power steering pulley fabricated only to get the engine running. The outside diameter of the power steering pulley is 160mm.

Cranks don't so much handle "power" more like RPM. Folks run upwards of 500 hp running boost on a cast crank but they keep it below 6000, keep the timing sensible and get it balanced and seem to live ok. Harmonics kill inline cranks more than anything else.

 

Nope, as far as I know, all bottom ends are equal. XR6 spec got a very mild port with slightly bigger valves, cam and slight bump in compression but no other mechanical differences.

 

The only difference between au xr6 and standard bottom end is the standard engine uses a half thrust bearing whereas the xr6 uses a whole one

Is there much that either of you blokes don't know?

I've got 2 bellhousings here!!

 

Does anyone have a bellhousing or complete c4 to suit a crossy for sale in QLD ,brisbane  or GOLD COAST area ?

TF_DOHC is in the greater Brissy area so if you ask him nicely he might help you out as I don't know if the C4 to suit crossy suits barra engines.

The unimig should have no drama welding stainless as I have found it has plenty of extra wire speed for the amps on regular mig wire (stainless needs more wire speed for the same voltage setting compared to the normal mig)

 

If you want to use ally wire you will need the spool gun. You will need to run a smaller diameter ally wire as ally wire requires much faster travel speed as well as a higher voltage input compared to normal mig wire(smaller diameter ally wire means you cant weld the same thickness of material as you can with welding mild steel) To weld ally you will also require different sheilding gas as well.

If you have the above sorted yes the unimig will weld both stainless and ally

There you go mate all pics in one post.

 

As for the wheels I had them one my car when I bought it. Its an XE Spak, the owner ordered them instead of the normal Spak wheels. I don't know how you would go about finding if those wheels were ordered though

 

Nah it's simple dude, they don't think you can handle the full awesomeness of queensland so they only allow weaker versions for people living in lesser.....sorry southern states :lol:

I'd just go to the local scummy suburb and grab a old bike thats left somewhere and raid the shit you need. Don't pay for that bodge mod cos then you will have expectations of it

Sorry brah but everywhere around where I live is a scummy area and I would have to go to schools and steal shitty beat up crap from kids to get the bearing I need, that's going a little to far in my books.....just a little . Instead I went to a local bike shop that sells parts to all the local bogans for their crappy bikes and I paid $9.95 for a complete bearing kit which came with 2 bearing cups. This now means I can repair mine and have one as a backup.

 

Funnily enough the bike shop dude must have thought he was onto a winner as he made sure I knew he had a heap of stock of these bearing kitsa as I'm guessing he thinks I will be in over and over again to buy the bearing kit.

Thanks mate. I had wondered about a different brand of car but didnt know what other cars used single rails.

Looks like I have a bit of digging to do to find out where it came from. Im guessing the shifter housing may be XF as the condition of the housing fits the condition of the box. Im starting to think the gear stick it self is the odd one out. Guess I need to find someone with a known XF setup to confirm 100%

it wouldn't surprise me if one of those housings is from a cortina even, i had a heap at one stage(bought several $50 boxes when My 351 was eating them at the time)

Is there a way to find out if its cortina? And I still cant figure out why the shifter I got with the box wont work as it is longer between the bottom of the nut and where the saddle sits?

Thanks once again to Dean for the idea. I changed over the shifter housing today, was and absolute piece of piss. 3 bolts and the roll pin in the shaft, the hardest part was knocking out the roll pin when it was in the car but even that was fairly easy.

So I pulled apart the shifter housing that was on the known XE gearbox, degreased it then lubed up the shaft and inside the housing with fresh grease. All seemed fine then thought I would put the 2 housing on the bench and take some pics.

 

In the below pics the known XE housing is on the left and the unknown one is one the right. Can really notice the height different between the top of the 2 housing when they are side by side. Other than the top height difference there really isn't much difference between the 2 housings that I can see.

 

 

This number is from the XE housing

 

 

This number is from the unknown housing

 

Ok so got the saddle off the selector shaft and the unknown shifter still has no spring movement when the nut is done up and still wont select reverse. So because I'm suppose to be driving this car in just over a week I will remove the shifter housing and replace it with the one that was on my original XE box. I put the known XE shifter back into its housing and it worked fine so that will be the quickest way out of it.

 

Sly had a look around for bmx bearing cups and I noticed 2 types, one is for 24T and the other is 28T. Would it matter at all which one I got?

This is a kit from bmxworks here in australia. They have a black set for $16.50 and this chrome set for $19.80

 

 

Can also get this one from england for the same sort of money as the above ones, it says it's 5/16 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ETC-One-Piece-Crank-Bottom-Bracket-5-16-Cup-and-Bearing-Set-Old-School-BMX-/271762610889

Here is my wagon with KFFL-0 in the front with standard height in the rear.

 

Here is my wagon with standard front springs for comparison

 

And here is my wagon with the KFFL-0 springs in the front and a shit load of rock in the back with standard rear suspension. The front ride height raised up a bit due to the "lowered" suspension in the rear

 

 

This is my daily driver so if you wanted to have a look/measure the height in person we could meet up a

Cool thanks for all the info mate it has helped heaps.

I filled the box with oil on the weekend and the shifter housing has had grease in it for a while now. Will definitely keep an eye on that leak point though.