wagoon

I love how you guys stay connected to forums and respond really quickly even when there is months between posts in this thread.

To me this shows real commitment to people and is the main reason I will be using your services/products in an upcoming project once I have a few things fall into place. I cant wait to get started, just wish life would hurry its arse up.

Just be aware that if you do buy an LED light bar 99% of LED light bars are spread/flood beam with over 30 degree angle beam. If they are 60 or 90 degree angle you will be lucky to get light shining 50 metres down the road.

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I haves spares if your happy with secondhand. Pay for post and its yours

Found a downloadable version of the powerbond catalogue,although I'm not quite sure how old it is. Page 3 gives a full description of the OEM balancer while the description on the "Street" one is the same as above.

http://www.outlawspeed.com.au/catalogues/Powerbond/files/precisionpartscatalogue2009sm.pdf

thanks for putting that up.

According to their website:

OEM/Standard
high grade SG iron castings assembled with new inserted or bonded rubber as used in the original balancer."

Street Performance
high strength SG (Nodular) Iron balancer centres with new inertia rings, bonded then balanced to extremely tight tolerances.

So if you remove all the marketing hype and waffle the only difference is that the "street" version has been balanced to "extremely tight tolerances". I would have thought that any harmonic balancer was suppose to be made to extremely tight tolerances 

Yeah thanks mate. I saw the "street" in the basic description but what does the "street" actually mean? What makes them different to the OEM ones?

Need to change the harmonic balancer in my AU LTD. Been looking around seeing whats available and getting part numbers to ring a few places for a price. I have seen 2 different part numbers from powerbond balancers one is HB1463N and the other is PB1463-ST. Is one better than the other as there is only a $20 price difference between the 2 part numbers? I'm only after a standard replacement but if one is better than the other and both are bolt on them I would rather get the better one.

So forgive me for sounding stupid, is a narrower angle number better for showing further down the road?

Yeah the smaller the angle in degrees the more concentrated the beam. Be aware as well that the osram lense(call a fish eye lense) helps to concentrate the beam as well

60W LED's run 3.5 amps each for a total of 7 amps. I wired both my 7 inch wide 60W LED spot lights into my car's original spot light wiring instead of using the shitty standard high beams I had at the time. I added no extra fuses and literally cut the wire to the standard high beam and wired them straight to the LED's, I had zero blown fuses and zero battery issues. I only wired the LED's properly with additional fuses when I got after market headlight reflectors so I could use the high beam in the headlight and well as the LED's at the same time. Even when running the headlights high beam and the LED spotlights together at the same time on a standard alternator I have had zero blown fuses and zero battery problem for well over 2 years now.

My  Led's shine down the road far enough that I could safely do much better than the highest posted speed limit(in all states but NT, I haven't been game enough to do NT speed limits at night around my place with all the roos around) and still see things in time to react, so I don't see the need to use something like landing lights that will make your battery work hard(and most likely shorten the life of the battery) for unnecessary performance.

Unless you don't like the look of the LED light, at $100 per pair there is nothing for under $300 per pair that can compete with narrow angle LED's for long distance performance. Hell the $500 HID 240mm Lightforce spotties on my last truck were only at best 20% better than my current LED's

This is what I have setup on my wagon

Each light is a 7 inch wide Osram 8 degree spot beam(known as fish eye lens) with 60W power rating, they cost me $50 each off ebay. They are really really good on long straight sections of highway, or if the road is lined with high trees as the beam is quite high and it will shine to the top of the trees. The beam from the light is not suited for use on roads that do have tighter corners as they are really only for long distance coverage which these sound like they might suit. I would estimate that the light show reflectors on guide posts(or reflect animals eyes) et at about 1km and throws actual light for atleast 350-400 metres down the road. I have used very expensive spot lights when I was driving trucks and these things are an absolute bargain compared to the cost of good hella or lightforce spotties. They will never outright compete with the $400-500 per spot light range but they would be at least 75% as good in my opinion.

Scorpion roller rockers are fine to use if your not full on racing or using a high lift cam in a street car. Know the limitations of a product cause scorpion rockers aren't top of the line rockers, but neither are most yella terra range unless buying top of the line ones.

Does that ruler markings start at the end of the ruler(like on a steel engineering ruler) or is there a gap then the markings start. This is important as most plastic ruler have around a 5-10mm gap of no markings depending on which end of the ruler your using, this can change a measurement by around 1/4 to 1/2 inch.

The xf radiator is the same heights as the original xe radiator that was in my car, the xf radiator is much wider though and is required to mount the thermo's to. Both my original XE and the XF radiators were to suit 6 cylinder.

My setup is triggered by a Tridon thermatic switch which screws into the cylinder head. There are several different temp ranges available but my setup works perfectly with my heavily modified roller cam engine.

This is the thermatic switch I'm using

Screen on

Screen off

Oh ok. Mine is orange background with black charactors. I will take a pic today and chuck it up tonight.

Thats a good idea to check the brake mob bear, thanks.

Thanks for that Mcfly

Slo the only other thing Im chasing for the car is the lcd screen on the dash that displays fuel data on the smaller left screen and climate control settings on the larger righthand side screen.

I bolted the top as Sly did but I went a different way with the lower section.

My lower section is far from neat and tidy but it does the job and should keep the thermo's mounted nice and firm to the radiator.

Thanks mate. Yeah mine is a series 1. All LTD's came standard with 16's regardless of which series or at least that's what the owners manual says

Just wondering if anyone knows if 15 inch wheels will fit over the brakes of an LTD? Standard is 16 inch but Im wondering if thats just because they were alloy wheels as the standard tyre size was small at 215 on the series 1.

A related question I guess is are the brakes on AU Fairlane and LTD the same as on the regular falcon?

Yeah Im with Thom, you will want to use the torque of the engine which happens better with a slightly taller gear. Shorter gears are for higher horsepower cars that rev higher.

If you did very little highway driving you could change to a 3.45 ratio as that will help with moving the car better.

Could you get a 2.92 or 3.08 ratio 28 spline centre from xd or xe and put 2.77 gears on them from 25 spline centre? Or is there the housing clearance issues like in 25 spline housing

Did they make e series diffs with 2.77 gears?

Dont the xr utes have the same alloy wheels as the sedans? Arent the one tonne utes only fitted with steel rims?

I was under the impression that its the load rating of the tyres more so than the rims themselves that dictate load rating.

5 grand is just for the motor it is auto and i want to keep it auto. Yes i agree i would preffer torque over horsepower any day the car will just be my weekend cruiser. Was thinking about going the eb diff

Assuming you have an XD it will be leaf spring rear which require either a ute or wagon diff from and EB2 or ED(can ute EF/EL but the handbrake is really simple on the EB2/ED diffs) You will need a E series sedan tailshaft if you have a sedan though as the ute/wagon tailshaft will be longer.

As for the power it really comes down to what type of cruiser your after, picking a camshaft that has the operating RPM range you want is the most crucial thing. If you want a highway cruiser don't pick a cam that requires short diff gears unless your happy for the car to rev a bit on the highway and use shit loads of fuel while on the highway. If you want a nice lumpy idle and plenty of go up top pick a cam from lower down the list of the camshaft manufactures below. If your comfortable doing a bit of maintenance then consider a solid cam as it will give you a bit more power compared to the same size hydraulic.

These are just some cam manufactures, have a look at their range as they all offer something slightly different.

http://www.camtechcams.com.au/#

http://tighecams.com.au/

http://www.crowcams.com.au/