wagoon

Turbo gas setups are quite specialised and the initial outlay for the components alone is quite expensive. If you already have factory efi, a turbo efi setup is cost effective, quite easy to put together and it's easy to find a tuner.

Thats a very good point, factory efi will make a basic turbo setup much much easier. Yep carby can be done but efi is just easier and cheaper to do, even when stating to turn the boost up its easier when you have efi.

It's the torque...

Low rwkw, but truckloads of neck snapping torque.

Don't need a turbo on a crossy to have neck snapping torque, it's just one way to make power and torque with one heck of a versatile motor. When you can struggle for traction with between 1/2 and 3/4 throttle with 2.92 diff gears in full weight XE with a crossflow you know you have torque. Whether it's NA, turbo or supercharged I don't think it really matter when you have a tough crossy, you will have a neck snapping torque monster if you have done it right.

That would be perfect with the 1.06 A/R turbine housing. There's cheaper options which are decent quality, you won't go wrong with a Garrett though.

 

What's your opinion on going a small rear on a standard lower revving engine (ie standardish cam's) especially when using chinese turbo's that are slower to spool up? 

I think the key is your diff gears which you dont mention.

If you look at what LJDB setup is and notice that the diff gears are shortish that is really what helps give the car the low down feeling.

I know this because I had a solid roller cam crossflow with a 4 speed single rail that would "come on cam" at around the 3500rpm but had enough torque down low to push the car along quite will, my car had 2.92 diff gears which tamed down the 283rwhp engine on the street but gave it legs and meant that it felt "lazy" off cam.

The clutch I used in my car is an Exedy cushion button clutch and it had feel like a standard clutch but just slightly firmer. I also had a lighten flywheel which may also have help with the "lighter clutch feel". If your interested I am selling my clutch and lightened flywheel, they only travelled 500kms before being removed from the car.

Then why did you say oh you can get a grand back for that diff in the xe

Simple. Cause you were not interested in the performance side of the car so it was a suggestion to return the car back to standard which is exactly what you were talking about. Exactly the same reason I said you should remove the shelby drop in the front, your not after a performance car.

You said you wanted the parts off my wagon to restore the parts on the sedan you were shit bagging as crap, so I gave them to you and now they are untouched and up for sale? Even the standard drum diff off the sedan that I said I would give a away for free cause it had decent rubbers in the upper and lower arms-you said no I will take it if your going to offer it for free.... and now you have it up forsale. THAT is my reason for frustration.

 

 

Editted to remove unnecessary content

Didn't waste anytime to make a quick buck Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/322371458725

Hmmmmmm. I supplied parts in good faith to be used as spares to help out. To find out they are being sold to make money, in the same week they are taken away for free.........Just decided that the rest of my stuff is going to the dump!! Was trying to help out but guess that's not every ones cup of tea.

 

 

PS I'M OUT

Yeah I was thinking that the mounts would need to be strengthened in someway as the standard shock mounts are not made to take the entire load of the rear of the car like you would see with coil overs

 

check out mine were done, loads easier and not mods to diff or top mounts needed

 

The bottom eyelets bolt straight upto the original shocker mount location with spacers each side to centre em.

The top have a bracket around the eylet and a bolt going upwards.

Thats a lot more load on the factory shock mounting position, do they supply new mounting brackets/pressings with the coilovers?

Also do the lower mounts clear the spring perches no worries?

As Ando said I have Afco coilovers in the rear of my car and it does handle outstanding. The rear just grips and with 235/60/14 road tyres the car is very grippy and very smooth. The ride is firm but not harsh at all.

Can get better shots if you require

 

These are the top mounts I made, bolts straight into the factory location and was the only "mod" I had to do to the car to make the coilovers fit other than a little trimming to the diff which was pre-done for me

I wasn't saying that 2.92 are bad but rather you just have to make sure you are aware that if you pick a cam that is going to be lacking torque down low and you have 2.92 gears it will be a bit sluggish off cam.

255/40/17 tyres are 25 inch diameter so are actually smaller than my 235/60/14 but only by 1/10th of a inch. If you pick a cam that has more top end the cam manufacturer always recommend gear change anyway like Camtech recommend for the 528. If you picked a cam more in the middle then you can use the torque of the cam to drive the car with 2.92 gears and still have a fun car to drive, this will reduce the sluggishness and give better throttle response as well.

 

But it comes down to your expectations of your car, if you want a car where you stand on the go pedal and it bursts into wheel spin then 2.92 gears aren't for you. But if you like to drive especially in corners taller gears are more beneficial as it allows the engine to hold gears for longer, be smoother with throttle application and use the torque to drive into and out of corners.

Whats worked for you guys with engine combo's similar to mine?

30thou 8cc pistons, ported ironhead and redline manifold, 500 holley, xe ignition, balanced etc etc and a 2.92 lsd

 

I live out of town so something with a powerband of 2k up would be great, lots of nice little country roads to play on around here. Was thinking something along the lines of a camtech 528 or crow 650.

Just my experience of having 2 falcon's with 2.92 diff gears and living in a place where in every direction I travel every road is 100km/h less than 1km from my house.....

 

My previous daily XE wagon was 200ci with 4 speed singe rail, 2.92 diff with 205/65/14 tyres(24.5 inch diameter) on 14x6 mags. Don't think engine is standard due to how well it performs but have no info on the engine and havn't pulled it apart to conform if it has a cam. Was a fun car but was quite sluggish to get moving due to lack of torque from the 200ci and 2.92 diff gears, but 2nd and 3rd gears were fun. Also the car never really had a lot of throttle response, seemed more to just gain speed, I didn't have a tacho so don't know what working rev range was.

 

My weekender is an XE sedan with worked 250ci 4 speed single rail with 2.92 diff and 235/60/14 tyres (25.1 inch diameter) on 14x7 mags. The cam in this car works from low 3000rpm up to 6000rpm but the engine is making shit loads of torque and the torque curve is really flat so that means I have loads of torque available from 2000rpm. The car cruises effortlessly at 100km/h doing 2550rpm and once the car gets on cam it the diff gears don't matter (283RWHP will do that). Below 3000rpm the car feels rather sedate kind of like the daily XE wagon on take off, but because the sedan has so much torque the car still moves pretty well. I know people will say that the car is sluggish below 3000rpm due to the big cam but when driving the car you can feel the torque of the engine trying to push the car when off cam, I honestly think it's the diff gears holding it back and I will be testing this theory soon enough. The cam in my sedan is a solid roller cam with 256@50thou

 

The reason for the above is to give you an example of 2.92 diff gears because I think that is going to have the biggest bearing on your cam selection. With a 4 speed you just need to make sure you get your tyre size right and the car will be fine to drive at 100km/h for extended periods but will still give good fun car. The biggest thing with 2.92 diff gears is that the car won't feel super responsive and will lack a bit of throttle response, but the car will still be fast.

Precision are great, very professional and don't sell rubbish

I'm using several parts from precision my car including their hypertec piston. No I'm not sponsored or have anything to do with things company other than being a customer. They have always been very helpful and had parts that I need in stock and I'm lucky enough to live within 1 hour travel time from one of their warehouses.

This is my 6 cylinder crossflow powered car with the precision parts in it

Well turns out that my 2 ED diff were not what I thought they were. One turned out to be 3.08 and the other 3.27 but I could have sworn I bought a 2.92 and 3.23 diff. Sorry Chestnutxe I honestly thought I had a 2.92 diff

I have an entire 2.92 open centre diff out of an ED if you interested, its been sitting in my shed for years. I have never used it or opened it so cant tell you the condition of it. It has a tag on it as well(thats why I believe its 2.92)

I will check the diff tonight to confirm

Thats probably why the one I had was shit cause it was from that time.

I was told not to oil the foam, cant remember exactly why pretty sure it was to do with how the oil sat on the foam not soak in or something like that. Basically the foam filter was a large particle filter and I needed a outer wrap like they put on motorbike filters to help with dust.

As for washing, I cant remember how often I washed the filter as is close on 10 years ago that I had my datto.

 

Regarding the crumbling that was on the secondhand filter I got with the carby. I did buy a new filter for it and thats when I was told about the oil on the filter

Got this to cut and paste.

Wonders never cease.

 

Heres the link Slo.

http://www.weberperformance.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=36_78_312_207&products_id=488

Just be aware that the foam filters in those ramflo filters can be a bit iffy when you live in a dusty environment. Also the foam can becomes brittle with age which causes them to breakup and either let more contaminants in or some of the filter material be pulled into the engine.

I had a ramflo filter on a weber carby I bought for my datto (second hand carby that came with the ramflo filter), every time I touched the filter it would crumble and I noticed a dust film inside the carby when I replaced the filter after a while.

Anyone looking for aftermarket weber air filters check out this website http://www.redlineauto.com.au/s-222-air-filters.aspx

I have a 6 cylinder with around 10.5CR and I use fuel straight from the pump, branded as 98 premium. My engine is the type(1980's 6 cylinder) before yours but there is no difference in fuel requirement between the 2 engines.

Why would you want urethane engine mounts?

Because your a MAN and that's what men do!!!

If you want to do it legit could it not be done by the police? When a car gets stolen and the thieves grind off the engine number the police stamp a new number on the engine block which is then the new ID number for the engine. I know this cause I bought a cleveland engine from a bloke that had his XA GT stolen then recovered. The engine I bought had a police number stamped into in due to old number being ground off, it was all legit and checked with the transport department in my state.

I apologise for thread mining but I have waited a long time to finally be able to put my car in this thread.

 

 

I have heard of Zero complaints about QFM pads, and that is from people using them in different model cars as well as different brand name cars. A guy I work with has had EBC green stuff and red stuff as well as performance Bendix (the guy does track days as well as drives his car on the street) and he much prefers QFM pads.  According to him the QFM last longer, felt much better when cold (he said that one of the EBC stuff pads was plain dangerous when cold) produced way less dust and cost less. So going off his review and the countless other I have heard of/scene I will be buying QFM pads where ever I can (extra bonus cause they are actually made in Australia).

Ok cool.

Yeah Greg this one has no markings on the outside at all.

Can someone identify the difference (if any) between these 2 power valves please. The thing I don't understand is that one has the numbers 3 5 3 stamped on it while the other one has 3 5 7, both have the letter A stamped on them as well. I'm guessing that they are both 3.5 power valves but the fact that they are stamped differently has me scratching my head wondering if there is something else to it.

 

The double stamping makes it a bit harder to read this one