wagoon

Using the wires direct from dizzy into the new harness I have made for the car as I have installed a complete seperate fuse box for all the new stuff I have installed. So only fused in new box hence the need to know the fuse size. Makes it easier as I havent had to splice or cut original wires execpt for the original battery wires. 15amp on main power sounds the goods. I wonder if the msd has different power requirements for 6 and 8 cylinder engines??

Dont think I did post anything on my bracket that I made. I still have to make the bracket for the second "saftey" spring. Started with this factory bracket I removed from an xf engine. As you can see it lines up with the throttle pickup on the carby pretty well. Not much room in there And this is the bracket I came up with. Just cut off the end bent up a bit of 1mm sheet I had lying around putting bends in it to increase the strength, and used the screw in the manifold to anchor the bent arm. Spot welded the lower bent arm onto the factory bracket then just a quick fill with the welder around the sides to make it look a bit neater. Sprayed it with engine enamel satin balck so hopefully it won't mark or scratch as much. took me less than 30 minutes to make it

Ok cool. I did read about the amp draw per 1000rpm but read conflicting figures but was never more than 2amps per 1000rpm for the 6al2 and I wont be revving past 6500 let alone 7000 so a 20amp should be enough

Thought this was relevant to the topic. Im hooking up my msd 6al2 and Im not sure if I need to put a fuse on either of the power wires. One wire runs direct to battery and the other wire is a 12v ignition that gets hooked into the red wire that runs to dizzy. So has anyone put fuses in either or both of the lines and if so what size. The msd install instructions mention nothing at all about fuses.

North south setup has the carby primaries closer to 123 and the secondaries closer to 456, switch to an east west setup means that 123 has it's primary and secondary and 456 has it's own primary and secondary. This is a really simple explanation but you get the point. I think it will depend on how long your carby is as to whether it will fit. Just a simple move of the carby closer to the motor when in a north south configuration saw Jason (TF250) gain 1 mph on the strip. So an east west conversion will make a big difference.

And when the bonnet comes off after race day the carby spacer and the conversion will have to be changed back as well. Then its a retune because the east west conversion makes such a difference I couldn't run the same tune...just saying

I would love to do this to mine but just not enough room.Would have to raise the carby so that means hole in the bonnet.

Going to do home wheel alignment when I get around to making something that suits. Don't need to worry about it now as I won't be racing for a while, but will have a setup for street and setup for track. Less than ideal but it is what it is to get the most out of the car use wise.

Anyone know if either of these 2 Advanti racing rims are any good? Are they prone to cracking like the CSA prowlers? Both are same price but bottom set is in much better condition and has more tread on tyres. The top set has a fair bit of gutter rash on the other rims.

Just not my sort of wheel dude. I am quite strange and like not normal things so it fits with me. There are a lot of things normal people like that I just don't get and really don't like. As for finding wheels, you are right. There are a limited number of wheels but mainly in my price range of fuck all, if you have some coin to spend there are plenty of wheel to choose from. The gold wheels that Ando is speaking of come in perfect offset for an x series in 17x7 17x8 17x9 and 17x10, but again there are only a few wheels like that under $2500 a set. if your willing to spend $3000+ on a set of wheels there are more than a dozen proper lightweight wheel in perfect offset to suit the x series. As for a big brake kit I will not be doing it as I will be running 14 inch wheels on the road and this will not change (bigger sidewall makes for a softer ride on the road). When I move to a track car then I may look at bigger brakes but until then it will not happen.

Even on a dream engine money plays a part, I know that feeling. At least you know there is still improvement in the engine's performance, if something was to happen to the pistons(god forbid it did happen and I hope it doesn't) you can always go the dish setup later.

Bit of back story on Joe as I have had a bit to do with him and I worked with his brother Jim. Joe and Jim have been into Fords and drag racing since back when there was a drag strip at surfer paradise. Jim has now retired from being the best blacksmith for 30 years in a blacksmith shop that has been operating for 150 years. Jim now rebuilds magneto's in his retirement and is the best at it full stop. Joe is just as good as his brother but does everything from flow bench to rebuilds, he problem solves everything from boats to drag cars to circuit racers and everything in between. Joe know what he is talking about, he is old school wont suffer fools and tells you how it is. On Joe's flow bench my cylinder head (about 2 grands worth) with no manifold attached made peak 215 cfm@550. My head is still very budget compared to Thor's head, plus Thor's flow figures are with manifold attached so head only is going to be WAY more than above.

Going to have to say it in public but I am really not a fan of that design of wheel. Just something about them that doesn't float my boat. Reminds me of the old dragway 4 and 5 spoke wheels that were all round in the spoke, never liked them either. Found a pic of the 5 spoke dragway mags. I know it's not exactly the same as the link above but it just doesn't do anything for me

fixed Hey dude what happened to the quench area in the piston? Or is this one of those go against the general thinking things like most of the setup?

Fixed. Sorry but it's not slightly anal, but I don't see it as a bad thing. You know everything has been done the same way every time and it has been done right every time. Yes I do know how much time has gone into this engine, but the results will show. My cylinder head had about 2 grands worth of work in it(thank christ I was very lucky not to have to pay for all of it as it was already worked) I would hate to see the bill for one like yours. I may actually be ready by Feb as I'm getting a bit done, all the wiring will be done by the end of the week along with front suspension and hopefully the thermos mounted to the rad. Fuel system is done, throttle cable arrived and I just need to make up a plate and the coilover mounts will be done. Getting through that list pretty quick now.

I have seen that crank and pictures don't so it justice, it is a thing of beauty. Bet there wasn't much sleep the night the crank was put to bed Looks like I best be pulling my finger out to get my shit done in time. And I really really want to see this thing run.

Yeah after reading my notes on relay's again I get what your saying about the trigger only. I was thing would need to feed power through the board not just the trigger. Probably make for a nicer install to with rhe board triggering the second relay. I wasnt to concerned about my original 60amp alternator as its been checked and has a new bearing in it. I have zero power option so only factory stuff to draw current will be lights(wont be driving much at night anyway) speedo, tacho, radio and heater fan. The stuff I am adding like gauges and fuel pump only draw less than 10amp total between all of them. But will go and have a chat to the local sparky as he's pretty good with older stuff so will see what he's got.

If I have to spend money on boards and extra relays I might as well buy a bigger alternator and not have to worry about any of this. I was hoping it would just be an easy fix but the more I look into it the, the better and easier the new alternator is sounds. Ah well there goes another couple hundred bucks

Yeah I found the same thing although I had to use my bear hands instead.

Isn't the blue thing on the board in the pic a relay? Plus is there a point to having the first relay to turn on the first fan, then another relay before the board in the pic, then the last relay to turn on the second fan? My original idea of using the RC circuit was to keep the setup simple as I would buy a resistor and capacitor at specific values to give a specific time delay, once the capacitor is "full" it sends current to the second relay, I don't need displays or adjustability just to know how long it will take for the capacitor to "fill"

Thanks for all the reply's, I know pretty much nothing about the technical side of wiring. So all these ideas help me to learn more, keep them coming. I realise that the RC circuit isn't the newest idea but it's simple as from what I can tell cheap. I do like the digital idea but one thing it says in the above link is says "Can control 220V /1A and below devices". If the fan is going to draw 40 amp on initial startup and 15ish amp continuous will this digital controller be able to cope with that sort of amp draw? I would rather have both fans come on a one temperature above the opening temp of my thermostat so that the thermostat isn't always opening and closing. I am using this Tridon switch to trigger the thermo fans I would rather trigger the fans from direct water temp as I will be circuit racing not sure how both heat soak and constant high speed air flow would effect the probe in the radiator fins.

You can actually get them in 17x10 in -27 to +3 offset, they machine them to suit the offset required. Here is the Ebay add from one seller, I have seen other seller off ebay selling the same as most are the OS Formula brand. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/17-BLANK-OS-FORMULA-MESH-ALLOY-WHEELS-suit-MOST-OLD-SCHOOL-CARS-FORD-HOLDEN-/221827184399?hash=item33a5ee370f:g:s6sAAOSw9r1V8meN

Yeah those rims are quite expensive and can be hard to find a decent set. As for the tyres I was going to try Federal RS-RR semi slicks first, by no means the best tyre I know but at $165 for a 255 40 17 tyre(smaller sizes are cheaper) I can put up with their short comings. Semi slicks seem to be in 2 groups, the expense $400/tyre group that are really good and grip like shit but wear out really fast great for people into serious motorsport trying to win championships. The second group is up to around $250 a tyre, these last longer than the first group but also don't grip as much great for people like me out to have a bit of fun. I will probably end up with a decent set on the front and some thing like the federals on the rear. This is a pic of the federal RS-RR

Those wheels require spacers which I don't think are allowed in racing and I would never run spacers anyway. I have found some that would fit the bill but still can't afford then for a while This set is 17x7 in +6 offset and are $880 for a set. Not my most favorite of designs but I do love true minilites and these are close enough. These rims are advertised as having a load rating of 890kg which is really good, but I really do need an 8 inch rim for the rear though so that is a pretty big negative. Again these aren't my most favourite design but a huge plus is I can get 0 offset in 17x8 and a -15 in a 17x9 so it would give a really tough stance and deep dish. Only problem is a set of 17x8 and 17x9 are $1450 but at least I can drive and pick these up. A set of 17x7 +10 and 17x8+0 are only $1350. The centres come in gold, charcoal and black colours

Not doing serious racing just hill climb, street sprints and time trial type events ie one car on the track at one time. I know all about proper racing wheels but cant afford 3 grand for proper ones. And as far as I know there arent any 17 inch steel wheels that fit an x series without mods. And yes it has to be 17 inch as R spec tyres are very expensive if available at all in decent widths under 17 inch. And as far as tyres go I can see 3-4 tyre changes in the next 18 months, again not flushed with cash and racing is just for fun not championships.