wagoon

This EA 100 Amp falcon one maybe an option as well not sure. Measurements of the body provided look pretty close to my original 50A. Might be hard to find a genuine one now though http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EA-Ford-6-Cylinder-3-9L-3-2L-12V-100-Amp-Upgrade-Bosch-Alternator-FREE-Meter-/130848926081 Edit: I contacted the ebay seller in the link for this alternator and I asked specifically if the alternator he remanufactured was a genuine ford/bosch removed from an EA his response was that it was genuine bosch so not quite sure if it's a newer bosch or an original ford one. He did say they get 106amps out of them and he was happy to include a plug to suit plug and play with my wiring harness (carby crossflow). All this for $180 including post is looking very tempting. The seller is listed as being in Allenby Gardens in SA under the name starter motors alternators australia

Thank you everyone for the input it really really helps. Tufe did you have to change the bearing when changing the pulley or was it literally pull the serpentine pulley and put on the v belt pulley? Spacing the alternator is no real drama as I have to make up a new adjuster top bracket anyway to suit the offset pulley on the harmonic balancer. Not stupid at all dude, I would expect a brand new item to be up to the task that's why you buy brand new. Looks like I will need to look for a bigger pulley. Ando the first guy I went to is suppose to be the bloke to see locally about rebuilding and modifying alternators, the first and only thing he did was reach for the bosch book. As for the new stuff well yeah that's why I am really unsure going new because of others experience and my love of all things brand new. I would much rather a checked over genuine ford one, either x series or e series. Greg the problem is finding a decent old usable alternator that people don't want 11ty million dollars for because its "rare" and "V8 size". But there is a heap of info here to work with so I should be able to get something sorted.

All my knowledge about the glorious crossflow and a lot of specific mechanical knowledge have come from the kind people of this site. You will definitely learn a lot here and by knowing exactly what you want from the car and how much your going to spend is the only place to start.

Thanks BBS for the clarification. Yeah I have been reading around about modifying the internals but the details are very vague with no specifics. Just not sure I want to go buying a good/new alternator that I have to pull apart (I dont have a bearing puller so more expense on top)to see if the mod works. Sly you wouldnt happen to have a part number for the alternator? Whats the advantage with putting the bigger diameter pulley on?

If that's the case were all fucked XF001 we all had to start somewhere but yes this place is full of very helpful people that won't bullshit to you and will give the advice you need to here whether it's the advice your ready for or wanting to hear well that's a different matter. Everyone means well but a lot is lost in internet translation.

Yeah that's my car. No A/C manual steer and manual box. The leaf springs would add a bit of weight over the xe's watts link as well. All the small amounts add up pretty quick.

Cool thanks guys, I thought that I wouldn't need to do anything with them but wanted to confirm.

So I have just about finished wiring my car and as I was tidying the wires I noticed I had forgotten one of the original wiring loom connecters. The engine in the pic is the old engine that is out of the car but since it's the original engine for the car I though it would explain what I'm after a bit more. The connector in the car's wiring loom joins the brown connector in the foreground of the pic. Then as can be seen both wires go to the coil red to pos and green to neg. The wire that also come out of the coil travel around to the dizzy here So what I would like to know is do I need to connect any wires to the connector in the car's original wiring loom that would have joined to the brown connector in the first pic. At the moment I have no plans to connect anything to either the red or green wire unless there is something else in the car that originally needed to receive the signal from those wires?

If I remember correctly the owner manual for my xe was around 1330kg's for a base model xe with a 6, and I know Jason (TF250) scaled his TF cortina and it was something like 1210kgs.

Ok cool. Since your close enough to me I have an XF ute sitting in my yard that you are welcome to if you need, I can send particular pics if you like. I do have the plastic trim that is under the dash that goes under the steering column as well as a glovebox if you need one. Let me know what you need and I can see if I have it.

I really don't envy your task mate, there is a lot of stuff there you would have to ask WTF does it do. Is this your current everyday driver? Do you plan on it being a weekend car or everyday driver? Reason I ask this is because if you plan on driving it everyday you really need to rip all that shit out asap as it will probably cause issues over the longer term. If it's a weekender you can get away with leaving it in there for a bit longer and pulling it out piece by piece. The scary thing about the pic of the wiring in post #16 on the first page is you would have to assume that that is the level of effort put into the rest of the wiring on the car which even by my crappy standards is bad and dangerous.

+1

That heater idea is a cool one. As for 18mm bolt the engine mount is almost the exact same size as the factory falcon mount. Obviously the cortina mount is different to the falcon mount but only in the lower half. The top half which attaches to the block is the widest part of the mount. Its not to hard to make your own mounts as the tuff mount brand prove as they are a really basic design.

Yes it is, just how I like it. I would rather the extra couple of hundred grams in weight for the thicker bolts and thicker bushes for the knowledge that they will never ever need looking at again.

I just learnt plenty in the above posts. So in your opinion XPT the xr6t cooler would be no good for a mild setup? I know they are not perfect but thought that it would be ok to use as a cooler for a reliable mild street crossflow setup.

It really sounds like they went about the built backwards. Its sounds like they either put the stuff in the car just so they could say they have a dry ice cooler or meth injection. Or the scarier reason was the meth injection and dry ice setup was their fix for the problem that were arising from running the car. Either way none of that shit is needed unless you are really pushing the boundaries of performance in a full drag setup, even then there are much better ways to go about things. If you ran an xr6 turbo intercooler (small in size so doesn't have to fill the entire front of the car, black in colour for the stealth look) from a BA falcon you could do away with the meth injection, dry ice cooler (sorry but that is not a very efficient dry ice cooler as pointed out above) and one thermo (hoping there is a twin thermo on engine side and one on front side of radiator) That for a start will get rid of a bit of shit sitting in your bay. I would pull the engine from the bay and inspect that, and while the engine is out you can have a really good look around the bay and see whats there and what is really needed as I'm guess half the shit in the bay is either pointless or can be done much better with far less shit sitting in the bay. As a bonus you can sell all the worthless shit and get some cash for anything that does need doing. Lastly the computer and ignition are really important items in an injected turbo engine so if that is standard that maybe one of the biggest issues with the way the car ran.

Yeah agree with XPT the specs should see a higher output although it may have been a safe tune to save the 5 speed.

275/60/15 is a 28 inch diameter tyre and is the exact same size as 235/70/15, 225/70/15 is 27.4 inch diameter tyre, 225/60/15 is 25.6 inch tyre. I use this tyre calculator all the time when I'm working stuff out http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp A 28 inch tyre with 3.27 diff gears works out to be somewhere between 2.77 and 2.92 diff gears(closer to 2.77) with 225/60/15 tyres.

I got these pics here clicking on the pic, then when it's just a single pic on your screen look to the right for 4 boxes. Left click on the bottom box that has IMG next to it then come across to oz falcon and right click then paste the link. Only the link will show up in your reply box but when you post it will show as a pic

I think these cortina mounts may be more popular than the Ryno mounts

Yeah they were landcruiser 60 series shackle bushes but only cause that's what was around, you could use a smaller size bush as the 18mm high tensile bolts can be a pain to source as 18mm bolts aren't all that common. Ando is there enough room to get at the bolt from underneath? Could you use the cylinder than holds the "rubbers" then weld on a solid block then drill and tap the block underneath for that hidden bolt look? Pair of 1/2 inch bolts should hold it down as it might strip the thread if only one bolt is used due to the torque.

If you wanted to continue to run your current tyre size you could get a used pair of tyres in 225/70/15 size (it's a small 4x4 tyre and should easily be able to get it from a wrecker, ebay has then new for around $100 per tyre), they would be close to equivalent to changing your diff gears to 2.92. If you got a pair of 245/60/15 (will be harder to find than the above 225/70 size) it would be just about the same as changing the diff ratio to 3.08. Doing this would give you an idea of which one you wanted to go without the hassle of changing diff gears and not liking them again.

Looks like plenty of money has been spent on the outside of the engine, but sounds like they were short cutting the inside of the engine. Depending on how far/much power you want from the car is how far you "need" to go. But since the head needs to come off anyway as either it's a valve or rings by all accounts you might as well flip the engine and pull a bearing for inspection. If you have limited info on what actually happened/what caused the issue/what the actual symptoms were your best to have a poke around and inspect what's there then make you decisions on what to do based on what you find.

What rear tyre size do you have?

Thats interesting cause the reason I asked is when I was looking for the amp draw I found this off the MSD tech forum https://www.msdignition.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22151 Says that for a 4 cylinder the figure is 1.5 amps per 1000rpm's. I have also read that it is 0.7amps per 1000rpm for a V8 so I didn't know what would be relevant for a 6, but I have never seen anything mentioned about compression related draw.