wagoon

What about higher diff gears? What diff gears are you running now? Also if you do have 205 60 15 tyres on 8 inch rims that tyres will be very stretched. Even on a 7 inch rim a 205 tyre is less than ideal for traction as you will have no side wall give. If you want to stay in the smaller tyre size you could look at a true R compound tyre. You can get them in 205,215 and 225 widths in a 15 inch and they have a bit of side wall to help with traction. Only problem is they are $300+ a tyre, dont know how that price compares to the straight line tyres. If the R compound is to expensive you could look at semi slicks. Semi slicks are all road legal(some R compund tyres are not road legal but some are) have a bit harder compound compared to the true R compound and therefore last longer. They do have less traction than the R spec but road driving will rip the R spec tyres up pretty quick. Semi slicks are much cheaper, depending on size and brand they start at $130 a tyre. Federal have a good rep and I know a few people that use them for track(circuit sprint) days. I will be starting with federal tyres myself when I go racing. Look on ebay in the tyre size you want to run for a general pricing and brand guide.

DOH!!! Spot on Greg, as I read the first few words I said to myself "good on ya of course that's what it is". Yeah Ando your description of the vdo sensor is spot on, that's the replacement one I put on. Guess it's not worth wasting my time and money with getting another pressure switch then. Might just chuck a bung in the the hole and zip tie the connector in the harness up out the way. Thank you once again for pointing out my complete lack of knowledge

Ok so when I changed over the oil pressure switch the warning light on the dash glowed constantly. I cleaned the oil off the connector which did not help. I did notice that there looked to be a rust preventitive coating on the blade of the connector which I have just removed with a file and still the light glows. The leaking switch was a very low profile switch. The replacement switch is the cylinder type sitting on a long tube away from the block. The replacement switch worked fine in my xe sedan with literally the only difference between the 2 engines being wagon is 200ci and sedan is 250ci. So what have I missed to stop the oil light staying constantly on?

That's the right attitude and mind set to have. Expect the worst until proven otherwise. As far as the 255rwkw I'm thinking the car would have needed to be just about running on meth not just a spray. The mix of meth to fuel would have had to be pretty high so as to keep the intake temps down at 14psi (or you could use the little magical black switch BHAHAHAHAHA) . When she said she ran out of fuel it was more likely ran out of meth which would have caused all sorts of problems literally. Best thing to do is sit down and make a plan of what you want from the car so you know how far your going to go with it. This sort of project could get out of hand pretty damn quick as everything would be better if it was done again. But if you don't need it done again and it's ok to use then that will save time and money, no point in wasting cash just to redo something. Once I get my car on the road I would be happy to lend a hand if you need/want it.

Winner winner chicken dinner!!! Changed the oil pressure switch before I left for work this morning, pulled over and checked twice on the way to work as well as at work and no oil leak. Well no major oil leak anyway, just the usual stuff. Thank you SLO. I honestly didnt think the oil switch let go like that, ah well just one more thing to put on the learned from ozfalcon list although its becoming more of a manual than a list. Sly I like that idea with the sump bolts as I know my sump gasket had been weeping ever since I bought the car. So I will get under the car on the weekend and check for loose bolts and try that. Although I will probably start with pliers first as if I use vice grips Im likely to flatten the thread completely.

I did wonder about the oil pressure switch but didnt think they went bad like that, although with most of the oil being on the passenger side it makes sense. If that's all it is then I have spares of them and I will just replace it. I don't really have the cash to spend on the engine change now so if I can get away with a cheap fix I will definitely go that way. Might grab a spare one and change it in my lunch break at work and see if that helps. Thanks SLO

Something just doesnt add up with all the info putting aside the incorrect info. I mean 50 grand spent on the car, where? I know turbo setups arent cheap but unless that 50 grand includes a 25 grand spray job I just cant see it. Also Mike Vine setup that has 255rwkw with no intercooler and only meth injection?!? And if that wiring was done by someone with OCD I best get myself checked. I consider the wiring I did on my sedan messy but its a pro job compared to the pics. Not trying to be mean and by no means putting the car down as I think its a great platform to work from as it looks like there wont be many expensive things you need to buy for it. Just needs a decent tidy up. Keen to see what you can make out of the car actually.

Yeah instead of buying the adaptor I took the flex line from diff to body from the xe and used that on the e series diff. The hard lines on the xe drum diff fit both the flex line going into the caliper and the block where the breather is. The block where the breather is was removed from the xe diff. Cost me nothing at all and all threads wound in just fine. Sorry realised I didnt explain it better before

Editted to remove this dribble and replaced by hopefully easier to understand dribble in my below response.

Nah dude you were being more environmentally responsible than the prius owner as you were trying to conserve fuel that's why the prius drove away from you. So you have the moral win over the prius owner, on top of you saving fuel they have many batteries and electrical components that were made in china then shipped to butt-fuck-nowhere to be assembled to make the pussbox that is the pruis. That requires more carbon's be pumped into the atmosphere than your 30 year old gas guzzler which is well beyond carbon neutral by now. A win is a win and it doesn't matter by how much, all that matter's is that YOU WON.

Could the ecu be faulty as in like on a circuit overtime it breaks down sort of thing?

So I have been learning about time delay RC circuits trying to sort a setup out for wiring up my EL thermo fans. Basically want I want to do is run the first fan off the first relay then have a time delay device in between the 1st and 2nd relay's so the 2nd relay is triggered say 10-20 seconds after the first relay is energised. I can work out how long the delay is if I know the resistor rating and the capacitor rating but I don't know if this sort of relay is even a time delay setup/RC circuit https://www.autoelec.com.au/ssl/public_autoelec/store_v4/product_detail.asp?id=1859&cat=28 and whether it will work as the 2nd relay let alone know how to calculate the delay time if it does that function. If the above relay isnt what I am after is there a relay out there that has the time delay built in or am I going to have to go to Jaycar and buy a board, resistors and capacitor and make it myself. The thing I am concerned about is from what I have read each fan pulls around 40 amp on startup and run at around 15amp once running. So the time delay system will need to withstand the 40amp pull on start up for the second fan. Please don't tell me to just upgrade my alternator.

Update: For those that don't read my build thread I thought I would update this thread so hopefully someone gets use out of the outcome. Thanks to Hendrixhc for the idea on using a time delay board as that's the way I went. So this pic shows the delay board I bought off Ebay for $7, it's not exactly the one I wanted but it was what was available for fast delivery at the time. This board has 2 timed cycles and depending on how you wire it up is how it works, I have wired it so I get a delay time(I have set it for a 15 second delay to start) then after the delay cycle the board has a powered cycle and continues on like this as long as power is supplied . Once the thermatic switch is turned off when it reaches it's listed lower temp the relay board is reset and will start with the delay cycle once power is returned. So I have set it up to work for 15 second delay then 999 second powered cycle(maximum time allowed on the board, just over 16 minutes 35 seconds) To house the delay board I went to Jaycar and bought a universal housing. There are a few options including metal and plastic housing, the one I bought was a water proof plastic housing. The delay board needed a slight adjusting on one of the holes to make it mount but I only mounted the board on 2 mounts, the board doesn't move at all with just the 2 mounts attached. The housing comes in a grey colour that can be seen in the first pic around the delay board, I just painted the housing with a satin black spray can with no sanding or anything. The housing cost me less than $20 and is completely waterproof has lots of mounting options and the cover of the houing can be removed with the base left in place as seen in the above picture.

This is the non programmable 6al2 part number 6421 This is the programmable 6al2 part number 6530 This is a 6al part number 6425 I almost bought a non programmable 6al2 when I was looking for one. Make sure you ask who ever is selling it the part number on the front of the unit, as you can see they all have the part number on the front. Yes the programmable 6al2 with part number 6530 is the best and only one to buy if your going to buy any of them.

If I remember correctly aren't you suppose to use kero as the cutting/cooling fluid for working on alloy heads? I used a re coil kit on my weber carby where the airfilter housing bolts to, no drama at all and as Thom said they are stronger than before.

+2 on both the above. For a skid pig you might as well set it up for top end not low down so a 350 is just not going to cut it

You are correct, the only real issue with them is cost

Here's a link to the coil http://m.summitracing.com/parts/msd-8253

Give them space boys...... Fight Fight Fight Fight Fight.... as the crowd grows.

Weren't a lot of the pillow block clevelands prone to core shift more than earlier blocks?

Thanks for that Tpak

Might be a silly question but why wouldnt you just put an e series diff in instead of finding 28 spline axles ect to fit inside a 25 spline housing. The housings look identical as far as I can tell so what is the advantage in doing to 28 spline into 25 spline housing mod?

Search lokka on youtube to see a heap of video's about installs and ticking issues related to it. 4wd systems lokka has been around for nearly 10 years at least so plenty of info on it around(popular with e series and vr/vs commo owners) harrop true trac is nearly $1200 without install costs and is a newer item on the market so info is pretty limited on actual operation.

Very interested in this mod if you care to share how you went about it. Did you have/buy a known good VN alternator? Has it been checked for good operation? What size XF alternator did you start with? Did you have to modify the body of the XF alternator at all?

Technically no, eaton dont make a centre to suit either e or x series diff. Harrop have independantly developed an eaton true trac centre that fits borg warner 78 series diffs(EB11 to AU falcon as well as vl turbo diffs) but it is only available through harrop, if you look at overseas sites none of them list centres to suit 78 series borg warner diff.