wagoon

Another silly idea that I have always wondered with hypo sixes is why not run try y design extractors but instead on the final merge continue the secondaries into a twin exhaust with a taper from secondary size into exhaust size. Also with the intended operating rpm range and setup of this engine surely 13/4 primaries are needed.

Is there a reason the exhaust has to exit the rear? Can it be a side exit before the rear wheels like a V8 supercar, as this will stop any interference with the tailshaft loops and 4 link.

Sly I like your reverse cowl for the fact it is so low. I will still be able to see over it as well. I will check out ebay thanks Ando the class of "racing" will be nothing serious so it should be ok if I can get it to look standard. Lowering the engine will also help as my racing involves corners so the lower centre of gravity will help I shall check out the drop plate and the engine strap thanks Thank you everyone for your assistance, this place continues to come through with ideas

So I have an xe and the setup when finished will be an aussie speed manifold, 500 holley and 1 inch spacer on a crossflow. I got the holley off an xf which was on a standard manifold and small aircleaner no spacer and it had damaged the bonnet. So I am trying to come up with ideas for bonnet clearence. The car is a second car but will be used on the road with the family in the car so I dont want police attention ie no airfliter through bonnet . I am thinking of running a cold air tray like the brock commodores of the eightys. So what I would like is ideas no matter how crazy as I like out of the box ideas, but it must have enough clearance for the airfliter and not look like a ricer mod. Things I have already considered: reverse cowl like on xdrift, xw phase 2 bonnet scoop(probably not big enough), universal bonnet scoop, ba bonnet buldge (not wide enough?)

Sly the BA bump looks no where near wide enough for a crossflow setup like in the middle pic or is it just the angle of the pic? How wide is your cowl? Guess I should of remembered earlier I posted this so I could have read all your ideas Thom I have had a look at the hat idea but I thought a naturally aspirated carby engine needed a plenum type area to draw air from which is the size of an air filter any way like in the pic below. Ando I had not considered lowering the mounts but this car will be used in some racing event that will require scrutineering, would custom mounts require any special approval or if they look safe they are good enough? With the drop base filter will it hurt performance at all? Agent cause I am thinking of using the cold air tray under the bonnet there does not need to be an orifice in the bonnet just clearence.

Also use a tacho and note what rpm , speed and gear your in. I have found that speedos tend to move around and can also jump but a tacho if using a good one is more reliable and accurate.

Dont heat the wheel as it will bend when you hit/pull it. Heat the studs until blue in clour and then let cool it will work and you will be still be able to use all parts againont put any water or crc on hot metal because it hardens it and makes it brittle, it changes the structure of the steel and the steel will fail. Edit: Heating to cherry red will anneal the metal which softens it. If you want to keep the part only heat until metal turns blue.

If its an alloy wheel and you pull on it you will most likely damage the wheel. Truck wheels are alot stronger than car wheels. With the jammed wheel try heating up the stud only. This will expand the stud and break away some of the rust. Then apply more crc and heat again. Repeat process until wheels off. I have used this method to great affect on heritage listed steam locomotives because you cant cut with an oxy cause its heritage.

This idea is not for everyone but have you thought about 4wd tyres. Because of all the soft roaders now, they make highway terrain tread pattern but in 235 and 245 widths with various profiles plus 4wd tyres will last alot longer. The speed rating will be fine but you may want to check the load rating as you have a ute, I know the load rating is fine for sedans.

+1 for liverpool exhaust but I havent used them for years

When I finish my car I will be running rebuilt girlock calipers on T2 street series DBA slotted rotors and QFM pads(Queensland Friction Materials). This setup has been used by others that also do track work and was found to be good with little to no fade, mainly due to the QFM pads. The QFM pads don't need to be warmed up like EBC green and red stuff, this is good for the street and the drag strip where I guess you don't really warm up your brakes before a run. Braided lines and good fluid will help as well.

Maybe look at the physical size of the muffler and look for something that will allow for more clearance. Or get rid of the dudes and carry chicks they weight less, well most of the time anyway

Just a bit of information for people. If its been covered sorry but I couldnt find it. Currently I am looking around for a good set of used roller rockers for a crossflow and I'm not having much luck. I have been looking for yella terra stuff mainly but I have heard nothing bad about scorpion performance roller rockers. So I emailed scorpion direct to ask if they had a set of 12 bolt on rockers instead of 16 that fit a cleveland. I recieved a reply from their technical director saying that the set with part number scp1069 which is listed for a ford 3.8litre v6 uses the same rockers as their kit for cleveland engines with part number scp1024 but with only 12.

In regards to price because its made for an american v6 you can probably only get it from the states. I have seen prices from $170 to $200 plus postage depending on the seller.

That part number I supplied is for 5/16 bolt on 1.73 ratio Edit: see page 7 of the scorpion catalog bottom left hand corner last part listed on the page. You can down load the catalog of the scorpion website, is about 8MB in size.

Fair enough, but just letting people know that dont want to buy a v8 set.