wagoon

Ok so got the saddle off the selector shaft and the unknown shifter still has no spring movement when the nut is done up and still wont select reverse. So because I'm suppose to be driving this car in just over a week I will remove the shifter housing and replace it with the one that was on my original XE box. I put the known XE shifter back into its housing and it worked fine so that will be the quickest way out of it. Sly had a look around for bmx bearing cups and I noticed 2 types, one is for 24T and the other is 28T. Would it matter at all which one I got? This is a kit from bmxworks here in australia. They have a black set for $16.50 and this chrome set for $19.80 Can also get this one from england for the same sort of money as the above ones, it says it's 5/16 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ETC-One-Piece-Crank-Bottom-Bracket-5-16-Cup-and-Bearing-Set-Old-School-BMX-/271762610889

Here is my wagon with KFFL-0 in the front with standard height in the rear. Here is my wagon with standard front springs for comparison And here is my wagon with the KFFL-0 springs in the front and a shit load of rock in the back with standard rear suspension. The front ride height raised up a bit due to the "lowered" suspension in the rear This is my daily driver so if you wanted to have a look/measure the height in person we could meet up a

Cool thanks for all the info mate it has helped heaps. I filled the box with oil on the weekend and the shifter housing has had grease in it for a while now. Will definitely keep an eye on that leak point though.

I will try and get the saddle out first which Im guessing will make a big difference. I dont think there was a massive amount of pressure on the selector shaft as the spring action on the gear stick would return pretty quick once I started winding out the nut. Those bushes you mention Dean, if they wear will they cause gear selection issues? If I have no joy after I remove the saddle then I guess my only option will be to remove the shifter housing and have a look. Its always bloody something isnt it, Im suppose to start the car in just over a week.

Dont worry I was way to pissed to try and start the engine...... but it had nothing to do with how much I drank. Turns out I dont feel like getting pissed mid week as I just didnt want any more, man I would make a pathetic alcoholic. When I did try the stick in my box turns out that I could spin the XE shifter 360 degress when the nut was fully seated in the housing, it is just way to short. So to figure of WTF was going on I did some acurate measuring with a pair of needle nose pliers and found that the gear stick that came with the box looks to be the right one. When I bought the box there was no saddle on the shaft so I put the reddy brown one from the known XE box in. I do remember reading on the old site something about some boxes just not needing saddles. So now I will try and remove the saddle I put in there, all the grease I have in the housing isnt making it fun though as the saddle just turns and seems to have a suction effect onto the shaft. The one thing Im worried about now though is because I wound the alloy nut shifter all the way down have I damaged something on the selector shaft cause the shifter would have been pressing quite firm against it?

Case in point. Right now I am celebrating (several whiskey's down and several to go...maybe this belongs in the drunk thread???) as I have not long returned from Tafe where I handed in my final assignment for "Apply Mathematical Techniques in manufacturing, engineering or related environments". This shit covered Linear equations, Quadratic equations along with Trigonometry, Geometry and Algebra. Even the Tafe teacher said he was glad he wasn't the one doing this shit...WTF!!! Once I have consumed several more whiskey's I will be heading off to the shed to play with my gear stick and gently slide it into the hole that I have lubed up nicely to see how well it fits Have a good night all cause fuck knows I will

I went and had a look at that bodgy thread and thought it was a problem solving thread....most of the time. And yes its genuis cause it will fix my problem. I didnt want to put the plastic nut in there but also didnt want to destroy a factory intact shifter. So yes you have helped me. But dont worry alcohol will assist from now on.

Dean your a legend mate thank you. Ok silly question time. Is there any specfic bmx bearing cup I need? As in a specific size or are they all the same? So to get it right in my head, nothing is removed from the gearstick or replaced by the bearing cap, you have just added the bearing cap for extra security? That SIR is fucking genuis

Ok cool. I know removing the alloy nut would save me some cash, but I dont know that I want to destroy a shifter with factory alloy nut that someone else might be able to use. The shifter mod sounds quite interesting though, would you happen to have any pics or know where I could find a pic. Doing the mod would probably cost less than the $50 for the aftermarket alloy nut as well.

I know there are countless threads on diff and handbrake installs so if mods don't think this has anything new happy for it to be removed. I am unsure of the exact e series diff that I have but when comparing it to the ED and EBII diff I have sitting on my shed floor it looks pretty much the same, I was told that this diff is possibly an EF diff. Now the diff install was as per all the threads covered before regarding needing to change one end of the lower trailing arms to suit either the body end if you use E series arms or change diff end bush if using X series arms. I was lucky enough to pickup a full set of virtually brand new nolethane arms ages ago off gumtree for $20 so these are what I used for my trailing arms, these nolethane arms are to suit x series Now with the brake lines I did not buy the "required" brake line adapter as I'm far to cheap for that. What I did was remove all the hard lines, diff breather and flexible line from diff to body from the original XE drum brake diff and I fitted them to the E series diff. The only real drama I had was the hard lines are bent at a 90 degree angle where they go into the drum brakes on the x series diff, but the disc brakes on the e series diff have a straight flexible line coming from the caliper. So I gently straighten the drum brake 90 degree bend till it lined up with the flexible line from the disc, now I wont win any show contests with the sort of "mod" as it doesn't look pretty but I took my time and very gently and very slowly bent the hard line around and it meets up fine. Next was sorting out the handbrake cable. I used an EBII handbrake cable which I believe from what I've read the ED cable is the same. So I started hooking up the handbrake cable from the caliper on the passenger side and moving forward all the grommets that fit into the body brackets where exactly the same, every single one fit perfectly into the original brackets on the body with even the clips lining up perfectly(this happened on the drivers side as well) . This pic is a bit fuzzy but you can see how the hard grommet on the cable fits perfectly into the original body bracket (just past the axle stand) In this pic you can see the hard plastic grommet once again fitting perfectly in place on the far left of the pic. Now one problem I did encounter was the body bracket which is just to the left of the gearbox was to large and the hard plastic grommet just pulled straight through it when I applied pressure to the cable. Now since these hard plastic grommets are bullet shaped I just placed a steel washer over the end of the plastic grommet so that grommet wouldn't pull through the washer and the washer sits against the flat surface of the body bracket. I have no idea how long this will last but I will keep on eye on it. The major problem I had fitting the handbrake cable to the car was that it just wasn't long enough. No matter what I tried I just couldn't stretch the cable far enough to connect the entire system together. So modification time. This pic shows the only things I had to remove from the EBII handbrake cable to make it fit, the pivoting arm. The pin was through one of the holes with the washer on the other side stopping it from coming out. The dome head was sticking through the U shaped cable guide at the top of the pic. All I did was grind the end of the pin so I could remove the washer and pin and separate everything. Then I put the original pivoting arm back in position and slid the original u Shaped cable guide over the very long thread bar (this is the original undercar adjustment system for original handbrake setup). This original setup was the perfect length to make the e series handbrake fit. I did make up some washer to go onto the long threaded rod, they were not in the original system but I wasn't sure if the e series disc brake handbrake needed more tension applied so just in case I put the washer on. In this pic you can seen the original adjuster in the background and the e series adjuster in the foreground. When I put the original adjuster on there was a heap of slack in the cable so again for safety sake I wound the e series adjust down about a 1/4 of the way on it's thread so that it wasn't near the end and couldn't pull off. I then used the original adjusted to tension the cable properly, or at least what I deem to be properly. I did try pulling on the lever inside the cabin a couple of times and it worked fine, and I just kept adjusting the tension of the cable till I was happy. I will rechcek the tension once the car is back on it's wheel. So putting the e series diff and handbrake cable in my car cost me absolutely nothing apart from the cost of the diff and handbrake cable itself. And thanks to Ando76 who gave my the idea of making spacers to suit the trailing arm I didn't have to fit wider bushes to the diff side of the x series trailing arm, so I made them out of stuff I already had and that cost me nothing other than my time.

I had a 1990 60 series gxl that had factory rear lsd only. I dont believe the cruisers had factory front lsd, but wouldnt be the first time I was wrong today.

It's meth mate she'll be right

And leaves room for a BIG windmill when shit gets boring

Can't help with which is better but I'm using the weekend warrior setup Sly mentioned, its an electric fuel pump with fuel reg and a pressure relief valve with return to tank line between fuel pump and pressure reg. The relief is actually attached to the engine side of the fuel pump and sends fuel back to the tank once fuel pressure raises above relief valve pressure rating. Doing it this way I am told it saves the pump as apparently pumps die due to making excessive heat or something like that when they have to constantly use their internal reliefs. This is the fuel pump and reg combo I'm using (they come together as one "kit") here's a link to their website http://www.trickflow.com/parts/tfs-25013 One thing I don't understand is why it says its for drag racing applications only?

Still needs to comply with newer engine into older cars laws ie newer engine needs everything out of donor car including stock computer, cats and any other pollution gear. Plus if you add a turbo I believe that changes the capacity of the engine allowed. That is a very ugly pic there Thom, must have made a hell of a noise when it let go. On the bright side at least you would have one extra beer coaster

Well now the only real limiting factor is how you want to use the car. Is it going to see a drag strip once a month, once a year or every week. Do you prefer racing that involves corners like sprint or hill climb events or is it more 5-10 laps of a full length circuit. Or is the car only going to be used on the street for stuff like traffic light drags or highway rolling starts or just general tear around hooning sort of stuff. 5-6 grand is a really good budget that will get you a really nice crossflow that will produce a fair bit of power. But depending on how you want to use it is where the power is made as this will suit the application and make for a fast car where you want it to be fast

I was told the air flows from the aircleaner into the rocker cover, then out the pcv into the inlet manifold or catch can. If it is routed to a catch can to keep it legal you have a return line to the inlet manifold so the (hopefully) clean air re-enters the combustion chamber to be re-burnt.

Wow I could flex the lower mounts just be hand, I actually lifted the driver side a couple of mm's just using my hands. The xe mounts looked like 1.6mm thick at best.

The lower radiator mounts on my XE were bending quite easy when I was looking at moving my radiator forward. Do you know if the XF ones are thicker/stronger? I was worried the brackets would give way under the weight of the full radiator and bouncing vehicle.

I'm a little bias as I work with steel for a living (and I did make it) but I like this- used the charcoal canister as an oil catch can with drain and scourer pads. Don't know exactly how it would go with a boys in blue check but I have it plumbed mine so it looks like it goes back into the engine(although technically speaking that's not how the charcoal canister operates anyway) at least there is a factory charcoal canister in the engine bay. Details of how I made it are in post #352 here http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/4428-solid-roller-cam-xe-spak/page-18 If your interested I can take pics of how I plumbed it up on the engine, I also drilled the bottom of my aftermarket aircleaner base to put a fitting on it that the hose you talk about that is just sitting lose can connect to. I will give credit to Crazy though as I got my idea from what he did in the first place.

Yeah thats the one, or at least rings a bell

On my daily driven xe wagon with bog stock 200ci Ive got generic extractors, 2 1/4 mid pipe with some lukey muffler in the rear position. Then I have 2 inch standard wagon rear pipe with no muffler or resenator. Doesnt drone to bad cause I recon the engine is bog stock. The setup is less than ideal but it cost my $50 for the extractors and the mid pipe was from a ute I was stripping. Heres a clip of the above exhaust on my wagon http://vid1289.photobucket.com/albums/b507/wagoon1/xe%20wagon/20150623_145018_zpsct8bluls.mp4 Im also building a crossflow powered sedan that I will be using a single muffler in the rear position and a moroso spiral flow at the rear of the car. The engine will make a bit of power so pipe size is a little different but Im still stepping down in pipe diameter from the diff backwards. I was told that ford did this step down in size on a car (cant remember which one) and it helped the sound so thought its worth a try. Seems to have done ok on my wagon with only 1 muffler which can sound like arse sometimes.

Agree with Pro that 3.7 gears will just fry tyres. On a street car 3.7's are only good for underpowered car(torque multiplication makes the car accelerate faster) frying tyres and revving the shit out of you engine at 80+km/h. Just cause a tyre has side wall does not mean it will get traction, the really important part is the amount of flex in the sidewall. Look at drag slicks in slow motion vids on youtube and you will see sidewall flex. A 205 tyres on an 8 inch rim will not have side wall flex.

With the so called rust repairs performed by the person that painted the car I will be lucky to get another 4-5 years out of the chassis before it literally falls apart. The dirt back roads in my area are a smoother drive than the bitumn backroads. The engine still chews oil so I am regularly checking it and I do care for the running gear pretty well so if the standard pressure switch isnt much chop I wont bother with another one.

Im guessing my wagon has decided to let a rear main seal go. It has been using about 1 litre of oil per 5000kms for the last 3 services (5k services) but got home tonight and noticed a trail of oil on the driveway had a look underneath and found the above. There is oil dripping from the rear of the sump, the steering arm the bell housing, gearbox crossmember and the front seat support rail under the car lets just say its everywhere. So am I right in thinking that would be a rear main seal? Cant see any oil film above the sump and the oil film is only halfway up the gearbox. Has anyone had this happen and still drove their car without ceasing their engine if you continued to top up the oil? I'm worried that even if I keep the oil up to the engine(leak looks bad but it's not like it's dropping a litre of oil.....yet) the seal might completely let go and drop all the oil out at once and I will cease the engine as I drive a lot of highway and won't be able to stop the engine fast enough. I ask this stupid question because I do have a spare engine to put in the car but the clutch in my wagon is nearly gone so I thought I would change the clutch while I had the engine out. But this will require time to get the flywheel machined and then I will need to gather parts like clutch and gaskets etc for the engine swap. Even if I don't do the clutch right now I still need to drive my car 33km's one way to get to work, so I would be driving it for probably week and a half before I had the chance to do the engine swap anyway. Just had a thought, could it be the sump gasket instead of the rear main? Bit hard to get under tonight to have a look but it is definitely coming from the rear of the engine and there was no oil smoke on the exhaust I have posted this in my crappy wagon build thread but thought it would get seen more in here. Mods please let me know if I need to remove one of them as I will remove the one in my build thread.