wagoon

I hope to do a better road test as it was at 8pm and there are heaps of roos around at the moment so it will happen over the weekend hopefully. I am even thinking that I will go for a run then cover the same ground with the rubber ring in and see what I feel. It is good that the car is still standard execpt for the cam cause I can take it through the upgrades and see how each one works. I am thinking about a phone app that was mentioned in Sly's thread so I can have some figures that back up my fat arse dyno Ando I need a bloody welder first. If I had a mig, problem would be solved and there would be a lot more pressure to get the roller done aswell. I may end up just getting a cheapy so I can get shit finished. But need MONEY

Nice outcome. The extra torque and power coming in earlier should help get the car moving a bit better. Do you think there would be any weight saving with this setup over the crossflow?

Paid $50 for a new set of extractors the had been just sitting in a guys shed for a few years off gumtree, was going to use the on my roller but need modding for that anyway so might use them. Need to make an exhaust or find one if I can as it has standard size exhaust on the car at the moment.

Take out the rubber seal in the lid tonight. I can feel a definate improvment in both throttle response and torque. This is on a manual car with standard exhaust, standard air filter setup and a small cam, most likely a towing cam. Rolling along dodging roos in 3rd @ 60km/h put the foot down only a bit the car responded quite well and wanted to keep going. As money permits I plan on replicating all the advice in this thread on my wagon, so thank you to everybody for the info.

Cool thanks might have a look around for a suitable filter

So was there a point were the lid goes to high? Or would it just end up hitting the bonnet, thats if you could get a 5mm bolt long enough to reach the lid

Proves the principal about the volume above the carby real well. Question relating to that, is the gain you experienced with lifting the lid 6mm only to do with allowing more air in or would the fact that the volume above the carby has been increased help as well. So if your not allowed to raise the lid to comply with rules could the lid have a "dent" accidentally placed in it therefore increasing the volume above the carby

Extra fuel rail entry is popular with import guys on supra's and the like when they start pushing high horsepower.

I can't offer anything other than awe and admiration for the project and a good luck. The only thing I know is if you don't run an intercooler (which I agree your not going to need) your not going to have to worry about turbo lag, That would be no more than 150mm from turbo outlet to manifold inlet? Being a race car could you not just run the exhuast out the side of the car for even less restriction?

With the aircleaner mod, will the car need to be retuned at all? whether it be just turning the mixture screws or timing or something else, on a standard or slightly modified engine ie extractors and exhaust

Thank you for the explanation Cav, Clearly I was completely half wrong which is normal. Glad I could muddy the waters for a while

The rear hose is attached to the standard air cleaner assembly. It attaches underneath and vents inside the airfilter so it is sucked straight back into the engine through the top of the carby. As bear said its all to do with pollution and can be defected if not on your vehicle. But then again you can be defected for not having your windscreen washer bottle full in some states as well, no bullshit. As you said filters look cool that's why people do it, Same reason they cut coil springs to drop a car. just as illegal as each other in the end.

I agree with you on the manuals. Not trying to talk you out of a manual, but if your not doing circuit racing events where you use your gearbox to help slow down, a manualised auto with stally will be half the cost and suit the spool time of your turbo.

Sounds like a fun build. Im going to come at it backwards though. You are going to need to pick your gearbox and find a clutch to suit that much torque. The tko600 is a very nice box but the 600 indicates safe torque handling capability. You can put more torque through it no worries but you are then starting to run beyond its safe working range. Yes you can upgrade the box to handle more just like a t56, but the upgrade will be on top of the price of the box and the clutch will be around the price of the box if you want something street friendly ie not a race clutch. Dont get me wrong I love manuals, I wouldnt build a car without it being a manual. But I have actually shelved projects because I couldnt justify spending 4-5 grand on a box and clutch setup. Which if you want a reliable manual thats fun to drive with this much torque is what your going to have to spend. What sort of events do you want to do with your car?

Update Problem has been solved, it was a worn rocker. The lifters turned out to be standard not anti-pump ups but are in basically brand new condition. Massive thank you to Ando76. He gave a lot of his time and knowledge to help me with the frustration of half the length of Australia between us making it even more difficult. I would never have been able to do this without his generous help.

So I understand that anti-pump up lifters make a noise but what I would like to know is what is that sound? Also when and how is the sound heard, is it mainly heard a idle and very light throttle for example? Reason I ask is my wagon has what I would call a "constant lifter ticking" sound at idle and when the engine is lightly revved the sound speeds up but does not get louder. The car also has a slight rough/lopey idle but the car is smooth to drive at any throttle position with no hesitation and has plenty of pull for a 200ci in a manual wagon. The guy I bought the car off had no info on what had been done to the car, so now that I am able to drive it I am starting to notice a few things.

Bigcav that shit is funny. Sweetxf if you really don't know if you want it wait and see if the look grows on you. XF001 is right it really is up to you. If you look through the x series galleries you will notice that there are almost no cars with body kits, 99% of people hear think that the square shape of an x series doesn't lend itself to a bodykit. But if you like it go for it. I shake my head at some of the cars my wife says she likes, but that's just it every bodies tastes are different that's why they make holdens ( not saying you would buy a holden )

Thanks to Ando for his help I checked the clearances and only #4 exhaust is showing play. There was plenty of sludge so will try a flush and see how it goes. Thanks to everyone for your input it has helped a lot.

Well I was wrong, the balancer has been externally balanced. Pro it was rebalanced due to changing from auto to manual trans. The whole assembly was done from balancer to clutch pressure plate.

Some thing I have noticed when I started the car this afternoon when I got home. The ticking is louder the warmer the engine gets. On first hit of the key there was one tick then silence, after about 2 minutes of warm up I could here the ticking much more clearly. So I went and grabbed a pry bar that looks like a really big flat blade screw driver and stuck it on the engine for a listen. So when it was on the rocker cover it all sounded good with no different sounds from front to back side to side in about 10 different position. Then I stuck the blade on the cylinder head in the plug cutouts, just below the plugs. The first 2 cylinders sounded smooth and quiet the 3rd I could clearly here the ticking, 4&5 sounded louder than 1&2 but no ticking and 6 sounded the same as 1&2. So is it worth doing an oil flush or a cruise with the engine under constant load from driving up a constant steep gradient? I don't want to hurt this engine and would rather repair it than wipe a lobe of the camshaft and possibly destroy and engine. Does replacing the lifters mean replacing the camshaft for safety sake?

Greg thats a perfect example. But now Im standing at work talking to myself and clapping, people already think Im weird now they think Im crazy as well. There is definately no misfire but the rhythm of the ticking sounds about right - he says as he starts clapping again. Now when I go home Im going to start my car pop the bonnet and start clapping, hopefully the neighbours will think Ive finally lost it and move. I might even start making funny noises as well. Thanks greg that helped me understand it really well.

Ah the joys of setup. Glad your getting on top of it jason, looks like it shouldnt be to long before your running again.

I believe that jason's/my balancer was only used to balance the rotating assembly back to the pressure plate. I would need to double check with Cam regarding that to be 100%. From memory even my pressure plate was not touched.

Ando, I dont have a bloody clue what a dead lifter or bent pushrod sounds like as Im sure they have different sounds. I dont have enough mechanical experience to know the difference, I just know what doesnt sound right and can usually figure out a likely source for the problem, sepecifics are beyond my capabilities. But looks like I going to have to have a look inside to make sure. Greg your spot on about cleaning to well, thats always my concern when doing it. Usually I go off the condition of the engine as to wether or not to use the diesel. I have used my method on at least 7 cars that I can remember and it has never caused any dramas as you described, so I dont know if its dumb luck or not. I will say that it isnt cheap especially on something like my landcruiser that takes 7 1/2 litres of oil.

Sorry greg I should have explained the diesel thing better. I was told to use 100ml of diesel for every 1 litre of oil. If the oil is full drain a bit out normally around half a litre then use the above ratio for the actual amount of oil in the engine. Pour the diesel in when the engine is cold go for a very short drive to warm the oil then drop oil while still warm. I normally use the diesel once just after buying a car, where I do a triple oil change. I place about 200ml of diesel in the oil that the car came with. Drop it and fill with oil and diesel to the above ratio of 100ml/litre. Drop that oil and fill again with no diesel. Go for a 100-150km cruise come home and drop oil. Then fill once more and drive until oil needs changing as per normal servicing. All the above oil changes I change the oil filter as well. BBS yeah that oil is quite thick. I drove the car for about 100kms yesterday which consisted of 70% highway. I went for a spirited drive after about 70kms which raised the temp up to half on the guage from 1/4 then cruised to bring temp back to normal. Even after that it still ticked at the same rate and same noise level. I will flush the engine this weekend and go from there.